I have a generator that I can backfeed my electrical system in my house. I installed the wiring to allow "me" to hook up the generator during a power outage. If I were doing it agan I would put in a transfer switch and a generator that was designed to start and auto transfer on power outage. The reason I would do it differently is it would add value to my house if I were to sell it, the way it is I have to remove "my system" if I sell the house (very simple process, remove the 220V recpt on the outside wall and the 220V breaker in the main panel). I would also remove the sign inside the door of the main panel of which breakers on and which breakers off before going on generator. I had this setup for several years - the biggest problem - its a pain in the a$$ to exercise the generator (every 6 weeks or so). The auto setups, you can now buy for the homeowner, exercise the generator weekly. I have electrical 2 issues with my system. As far as back feeding the line to the power company I don't worry about it - When I throw the main breaker off I'm disconnected (the 1st issue is the breaker for the generator feed is not interlocked to the main. The 2nd issue is the chance of overloading and destroying my generator is great, either by my own load being to great or the main power breaker being turned on while the generator is connected. Most if not all power companys now in the U.S. are equiped to handle backfed power into thier systems because of people generating thier own power by wind or solar and selling excess power back to the company.

I can't believe that nobody's picked up on the fact it's NOT FREE ENERGY! Electricity is used to pump water to consumers. Demand is created by a customer opening a tap, and by the resistance of the water flowing. In other words these mine turbines would cause resistance to the water flow (and at consumer's end, lower pressure and/or less flow) so the pumping stations would have to work harder. It's not FREE energy. You might be regarded as stealing it, if you were, say, running your tap to generate your 'free electricity' If the water was gravity fed, then that's another thing. Something that would work, and ought to be considered, is storm water or sewage in hilly communities, if there's gravity-forced flow, you could generate a little power from it, in the case of sewage, you would also accelerate its treatment, as you'd be pre-aerating it.

cfmuehling - Thanks for the nice words. I too am rebuilding after a fire - but only the kitchen was damaged. Sounds like you are rebuilding much more? I am so sorry! Anyway I didn't even need to pull permits for my fire damage, but took the opportunity to do some major work to the kitchen layout. The house is otherwise livable, so it's not as if I need a CO from the City. I will not be fined, but if the inspector doesn't give the green light he simply makes a note of it in the city's record. My contractor says that given the size of the sink and my safety reasoning, he thinks that there is a possibility that the inspector will say OK and I will pass the inspection. I am very sensitive to safety issues after having the fire. The fact is, the kitchen is upscale and attractive, the house's location is an A+ in my city, so the placement of an outlet so close to the sink, while may be the "code," is irrationally unsafe and shouldn't affect resale. I don't have a problem with a prospective buyer knowing this when I resell the house. Heck, if they need an outlet placed into the soapstone counter inches from the sink, in order to get a mortgage, or for personal reasons, I'll be happy to pay for it at that time. :) Dimmers are great, I agree!

I had a GE Profile Smoothtop Convection Range for 13 years prior to our remodel. It was very good at cooking, baking, and roasting and it never had any problems. As a matter of fact, it looked like new (one small chip in the porcelain frame, but no rust or anything else). We donated it to our church for a family in need and heard through the grapevine how thrilled they were with it...first that it was convection and second b/c it looked like new. (I even still had the VHS tape & documentation that I sent along!) Based on our experience with our previous range, we went w/GE Profile ovens, electric cooktop, and warming drawer with the remodel and are very happy with our choices (well, I would rather have induction, but I couldn't talk my DH into it!) My experience and the experience of others I know, is that GE, in general, makes great cooking products, pretty good refrigeration, and lousy DWs...in the low- and mid-price levels (GE, GE Profile, GE Cafe). Probably the same for their high-end (Monogram). BTW...don't go by their MSRP on the GE site, I don't think I've ever seen their appliances at that price. Plus, stores often offer at least 10% off GE appliances on & off throughout the year. Unlike some manufacturer's, GE doesn't control the prices of their appliances, it's up to the stores what they want to charge. I did look at what's currently available in the GE line, and the GE Cafe looks very good...that's probably the one I would get if I were looking for a range. It has all the features I was looking for when I originally planned my remodel (back when I was considering a range instead of cooktop + wall ovens): Convection ovens Smoothtop cooking surface Warming drawer function Second oven Bridge element on the cooking surface (for my griddle) Warming element on the cooking surface Self-cleaning I actually got all of the above w/my cooktop & wall ovens as well. The only negative I can think of is that it's a black top rather than a speckled top. HTH! Here is a link that might be useful: GE Cafe⢠30'' Free Standing Radiant Range with Baking Drawer