non funziona Claudia. Il cartongesso e' un materiale che flette e appoggiato in questo modo i pezzi sono fissi a due elementi distinti, quello del muro e quello sopra la porta, quindi si muoveranno in modo indipendente come e' normale che sia e si apriranno le crepe. Nelle giunte si usa il nastro di carta o uno fatto a rete, ma il problema qui e' la giunta. Quello che e' stato proposto purtroppo si tratta di un taccone e prima o poi Lei si imbattera nelle famigerate crepe. Il cartogesso posato bene presenta giunte solo tra panelli superiori ed inferiori e negli angoli come nella foto che ho mandato. Oppure in muri particolarmenti lunghi le giunte tra due pannelli in cui entrambi appoggiano su uno stud doppio e' normale. Ma per le aperture non si puo fare. Stiamo ristrutturando casa e TUTTE le finestre, porte e aperture varie presentavano lo stesso tipo di crepe. Io e mio marito abbiamo buttato giu TUTTO il cartogesso di tutta la casa e mio marito ha posato quello nuovo come ti ho detto, il cartogesso vecchio presentava il tipo di giunte che hanno fatto a casa tua, quindi di questo puoi trarre le conclusioni...

The hallway is 3.5ft wide. It's hard to say which walls are load bearing. The attic is completely open, no interior bracing. Joists run across the house (across the hallway) and from one side to the other is exterior wall, hallway wall (x2), exterior wall so the joists are only touching walls at 4 points. The hallway opening has a bigger 2x6 over it. I tried to draw a picture of how I think it's built. This part of the attic is hard to get to (air duct return, gas lines, etc all run right there). When I first bought the house I ran cat6 all over and I drilled through that double 2x4, I guess it's possible it's actually three 2x4s. You can only see the top one, but I had to have a drill bit extension to get through all the way. I think its cracking down that 2x4 "sandwich".

In reading through all the posts that have made, it seems that no one has actually viewed the problem. Its been all conjecture of what it might be. Have you or anyone poked their head into the attic to view the damage area with a good flash light? If the location of your attic access is near the chimney, one might be able to see the problem area by putting your upper body through the attic access and look around. If that is not sufficient, then one needs to go up into the attic and move to the problem area. This requires care to step only on the rafters and not put your foot through the ceiling and possibly getting hurt. Also, there should be attic insulation, and if one intends to wade around in that, proper foot and legging wear should be used. This problem is serious and must be addressed. Damage continues as long as this problem exists. In a prior post, a good illustration was shown. I'll add another one showing flashing around a chimney. Note that the lower edge of the flashing comes out on top of the shingles. The base flashing goes on first and then the counter-flashing collar is installed. There should be at least a 4 inch overlap with the collar flashing over the base flashing. A "saddle" is shown on this illustration. It is used to channel water away from a "pocket' region where water can collect and run under the shingles. Often, this is the the upper side of the chimney where it pierces the roof. (Saddles are custom fitted to the problem area and can have shapes differing to the one shown here.) I hope you find a knowledgeable tradesman.

Drywall seams do not have to be staggered. The goal with hanging drywall is to have as few seams as possible when hanging. You have a very very badly finished seams and they tried to cover it up with badly applied stippling . The seams should have been taped, mudded, feathered out and sanded. You are never going to match the present stippling. Definitely done by someone who never done drywall before. The waving is probably due to not enough drywall screws per each sheet. My guess would be they used drywall nails instead of drywall screws because they are cheaper. To fix it you don't necessarily need to take down the drywall, but you have to remove the stippling, the mud on the seams and redo it correctly. Finishing drywall isn't that hard, it just takes some practice. If your going to hire someone to repair it, it probably would be cheaper to have them tear it down and replace.