What never planted perenn. do you plan to put in your garden in 2022?
rouge21_gw (CDN Z6a)
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rouge21_gw (CDN Z6a)
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Planning Your Plantings In the Edible Garden
Comments (38)Mia, Yes , I think it will work. Interplanting tomatoes with other crops is something I do all the time. I often grow smaller plants like lettuce and carrots underneath and between tomato plants, essentially using them as a living mulch beneath the taller tomato plants. I also mix all kinds of herbs into the tomato beds as well, and think those herbs help explain how I grow so many tomato plants and yet only rarely see even a single tomato hornworm or fruit worm. You sometimes will get less yield per plant when you interplant multiple kinds of crops together using close spacing, but since you have a lot more plants occupying the soil, you still get a good harvest . The best carrot crop I ever had was a result of me broadcast sowing lettuce and carrot seed randomly into the tomato bed after the tomato plants already had been transplanted into the ground. My garden was smaller then and I had run out of space, so was packing as much into each bed as I possibly could. I just thinned carrots and lettuce after they sprouted. When I grow onions with tomato plants, normally I hammer a stake into the ground where each tomato plant will be planted later, and leave a small unplanted spot there as I plant the onions. When it it time to transplant the tomato plants into the ground, I put one tomato plant next to each stake. If I have to pull up a couple of onions to make room for a tomato transplant, it isn't a big deal . We eat those onions as scallions. I started interplanting multiple types of plants together long ago, after reading John Jeavon's book "How To Grow More Vegetables...." book. It is amazing how much you can pack into even a small space when you interplant. Even when I grow tomato plants in molasses feed tubs, I generally have pepper plants, herbs and flowers mixed into each container with the tomato plants. Look at how Mother Nature mixes everything up together. On the eastern edge of our woodland, for example, we have native pecan and oak trees growing as the dominant plants, but underneath them we have wild cherries, American persimmons, possumhaw hollies, and redbuds, and beneath those understory trees we have American beautyberry bushes, native blackberries, inland sea oats and brushy bluestem, peppervines and several native wildflowers which ebb and flow with the seasons. All of them happily co-exist. Why can't our gardens be the same way? To garden bio-intensively in this manner, you need to pay careful attention to soil fertility and irrigation (if adequate rainfall is not being received). Obviously when you interplant several types of edible crops together, the plants will be competing with one another. I get smaller onions in interplanted beds than I get from onions grown in a monoculture with recommended spacing, but still get tons of onions. We still have several dozen onions from last year's crop, though now they are starting to sprout. There pretty much is nothing grown in our veggie garden that isn't interplanted with several other things. If I ever were to plant even one single monoculture bed, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like the way it looked and would be out there trying to fix the bed by adding more stuff to it. In fact, I do have my onions planted as monoculture beds right now, but that is because they are the only thing I've put into the ground so far this year. The onions will not be alone in those beds for long. Hope this helps , Dawn...See MoreHow do you plan your garden?
Comments (30)I plan my garden in Excel. I adjust the row height and column width so that the cells are roughly square, then I outline my bed sizes with dark lines. I treat each cell as a square foot, and I type whatever I plan to plant in it, and my planned spacing for example, "9 beets, grid" (means 3x3 rows of beets) or "5 turnips, cross" (means 2x2 rows of turnips, with one in the middle). I make one plan for spring and one for summer. Fall is catch-as-catch can. On the spring plan, I might type something like "5 turnips, cross, 4 radish intercrop" (this tells me to plant the 5 turnips in a cross shape as described above, then to plant 4 radishes around the turnips in the empty spaces -- the radishes will be harvested before the turnips need the space) or "9 teton spinach, grid follow with lettuce" (which tells me to replace the 9 spinach plants with 9 lettuce plants -- I don't bother working out when this transition will take place). I don't bother typing notes to link the spring and summer plans, but I do record the earliest planting date I want to use on the summer plan, so it will look something like "sungold May 15". Then I just plant the sungold tomato in that spot anytime after May 15 that the spot opens up from spring crops. This is helpful with things like beans, which I succession plant two squares at a time. So two squares will say "9 dragon's tongue beans, grid June 1" and the next two will say "9 dragon's tongue beans, grid June 15". I do spend a lot of time trying to coordinate things between the two plans, like planning to put early beans in the spinach squares (since spinach is harvested early) and later beans in the broccoli squares (since broccoli is harvested later), but most of that is just in my head. I don't try to write any of that down....See MoreWhat do you wish you had NEVER planted? & Which plants do you love?
Comments (53)PK, I pulled it up as soon as I saw the first leaves emerge. When I pull up an invasive, I don't merely tug and yank, I get my hand weeder (or shovel) and go down deep to get the roots. Merely pulling the plant up usually leaves too much root behind. Even in places where I could not get rid of every bit of root, I just made sure that I cut off every leaf that sprouted, which insured the death of the plant trying to emerge. Diligently removing emerging foliage on pesky invasives (such as alstromeria) worked well for me because the little brittle roots were impossible to dig up. Molly...See MoreWhat do you have planned for your gardens in 2017?
Comments (26)Glenn I have a Tropical Beauty I put in end of last March early April so this will be my second peach tree.. Rhonda I work on my property 5-6 days a week most of the day so time is no issue. Here is a list of what we planted in 2016 starting end of March early April. I cut down many large oaks, cut them up and woodchipped the brush. I moved over 300 yards of topsoil and compost by wheelbarrow and shovel that I brought in. I put in 9 12x4x 12 inch raised beds which I am moving now unfortunately because of bad planning. That was the hard work for 2016 now the fun part was planting. Keitt mango, Kent Mango, lost a rosigold mango to disease, Glenn mango, Valencia Pride mango, Altaufo mango From seed, Coconut Cream mango, bacon avocado, mexicola avocado, lost a Florida Hass to disease, Mauritius lychee, lost a sweetheart lychee from stupidity on my part trying to prune severely to a "better shape", Kari starfruit which I dug back up as it had a bad canker disease so I pruned it and potted it to nurse it bac, meanwhile I bought new Kari and planted it, kohola longan, Ruby red grapefruit, navel orange, Meyer lemon, pineapple orange, pink guava but unsure on cultivar, tropic beauty peach, saijo persimmon, 2 brown turkey figs, Jamaican cherry aka strawberry tree according to Floridians, mulberry but unsure of kind, two papaya from seed, 4 red lady papaya from seed, dwarf Cavendish banana, ice cream banana, white flesh dragon fruit and red flesh dragon fruit but unsure on cultivars, and 6 moringa which I took down recently because they had bad flood damage because I put them in a bad spot... Before this I grew one garden when I lived in Michigan so this was a year of serious learning. I have 3 YouTube videos which show what we done unfortunately I started the videos in August instead of February when the work began cutting oaks down. May all be blessed in their projects......See Morerouge21_gw (CDN Z6a)
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