https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5803236/to-polish-or-not-underside-of-quartz-waterfall-countertop

Your fabricator is a dumba**. Insist that it be polished or replaced. That is unacceptable. I can’t believe they would do that… and if they don’t fix it, a little social media, google reviews along with pics.. plus complaints to the BBB and contractors associations might persuade them to make it right. Sheesh!

We had ours polished. It was a small extra charge but necessary for the look. Mind you, ours did not have the print visible, just the rougher surface.

That's not the underside but the visible inside "legs", right?

Suzi:

Waaaayyy overreaction. It is not at eye level, nor is is very conspicuous. A piece of color coordinated solid color plastic laminate nicely fitted and adhered inside would be a fast, inexpensive, sanitary, and maintainence-free solution.

Your fabricator dies not take pride in his work. Insist he polish out the name. Show him m our responses and list his name, so others can pass him by when choosing a fabricator.

I do not reccommend saying their name on here we have no clue as to the contract wording or anything else . I see it but did your contract state a polishend finish on the bottom ? I bet a piece of wet and dry sandpepre will remove that but do not bad mouth anyone on here .

I am a fabricator. I'd consider this an oversight by the fabricator since it apparently wasn't discussed during the design or field measure. easily remedied as Joe suggests. To those that assert the backside should've been "polished" that can generate very unrealistic expectations as polishing a large area of quartz by hand or with the typical fab shop equipment will not deliver a polish like the factory finish. best solution for someone fussy about the exposed backside would've been a back to back piece on the exposed area but that does require more material.

It should not have come like that and was definately an oversight by the fabricator and the builder. The underside of the waterfall portions on our counters are smooth and polished but the bottom of the countertops are not.

You don't need it to be polished but the name certainly has to go. I'd try to do what Patricia suggests. Then I'd try assorted solvents...

Last, I'd stick something to it like Joseph recommends. Like a cheap faux marble (or while) tile from Home Depot. Perhaps your fabricator can offer you up a coordinating scrap they have lying around? Ask them!

Some acetone-based nail polish remover will eliminate the writing in seconds if you'd like to do it yourself.

I got a 1 star review once for the sin of not putting a customer's Windex back under his sink cabinet and inadvertently leaving a small bag of trash in his garage. My biggest mistake was not screening this nit-picker out like I would do for Suzi and kculbers.

Joseph: shouldnt a craftsman review their work prior to leaving a clients home? If a name of the quartz counter: Antolini, is quite visible, wouldnt you remove it first before leaving the jobsite? I am a reasonable person and had great relationships with all the craftsmen who did renovations in my home.

Multiple ways to do a waterfall. Yours works IF there is a finished cabinet extension there, if not it doesn't meet my expectations and that is not the "underside" of the cabinet.

kculbers:

Of course a craftsman should review their work prior to leaving a client's home. This writing and unfinished side should be abated, however, it's not a stop-payment, OMG, notify the newspaper, complain to the state, get on the internet kind of issue.

It's a 20-minute fitted and adhered plastic laminate kind of issue.

I hear you Joe but it seems the OP has spoken to the fabricator and his fix is more $$$ spent. That is not acceptable. The OP should either get a fee for free advertising or the installer needs to make this go away on his dime! And truly I would think the fabricator would be all over getting that removed. ANYONE seeing that is going to put in the back of the head "poor job"!

Thankfully my husband was able to remove the ink after lots of elbow grease.

He used paint thinner, medium grit sandpaper, and finished it off by wet sanded with a fine grit.

Will I recommend this fabricator? Nope, never again. Let me know what you think.

Thank you for all of your responses!!

AV:

Your estone appears to be 2 cm. What is the depth and length of the cantilevered section please? What is supporting the cantilever? If the span is long enough, deep enough, and unsupported, gravity will pull the center down despite your mitered edge. When it does, the miteres at your waterfall must fail.

^^^ That looks slick!

@Ariadne Vasquez Your husband did a good job, I hope he had a drink after that.

Enjoy your kitchen!

Looks good now

I agree with Kristin - I do a cabinet panel on the inside.

I also agree with Joseph about the support. Hope all is well with that.

I do love the color of your cabinets!!

Ariadne: so glad your husband fixed the issue. Its nice to have a handy husband!! Mine is handy too: can fix just about anything. Please post pictures of your completed kitchen.

Here is my neighbor's solid white unmitered 3 cm estone waterfall with a polished inside end. They even did the bottom of the overhang. Nice.

But the designer was an idiota about planning the electrical outlets. That is just shameful.

Better there than breaking up a waterfall end.

Not code legal for the required outlet, obtrusive, and just plain hideous.

Hi Joseph, the depth overall is 38 inches. The cantilevered edge is 12 3/4. The support is 1/2 inch plywood.

Plywood isnt a support. It is a thickness compensator only. That is 100% going to sag and crack. It needs steel supports. Your kitchen designer should have planned that in the overall design from the beginning. As well as the missing, and code required, electrical outlets.

"Not code legal for the required outlet...'"

Citation please.

In my area, the code compliance of the outlet location is a gray area and depends on the interpretation of the code which states that an outlet cannot be located where the countertop is 6" (or something to that effect). One interpretation is that an outlet cannot be located anywhere where the overhang is 6" or more and others allow it if the outlet is within 6" of the end of the overhang. So when I'm designing for this, I have to know how they interpret it in the town/city where I'm working. This code will probably be re-written at some point for more clarity.

Having said that, I recently had a client who said she preferred the outlet in the side panel rather than under the overhang because she uses small appliances a lot at her island and did not want cords near someone seated.

In the NEC code book, there was or still is a section that specifies receptacles location when it comes to islands or peninsulas (my codebook in the truck, and it's too cold out to look for it) but as far as I could remember (don't hold me to it) it said something that a receptacle cannot be more than 12" below the surface of the countertop and it cannot be installed inside of a base cabinet or work surface if the countertop surface extended more than 6" beyond supporting edge.

@Kristin Petro Interiors, Inc. You beat me to it, but yes very close to what you said. I can see the reason for this code, the code doesn't want to allow a plug for an appliance, etc to be inserted too far from the edge to prevent accidents especially in this case where seating is involved I know a few inspectors who most likely would have an issue with that.

We split a top drawer on the front face for a plug next to a waterfall.

That or add front-facing columns and place the outlets there.