Hi, just had a complete system installed yesterday (4-18-2011). I live in N.dallas where cooling means more than heating. cost exactly 7k for everything (negotiated price). here is a list of what was installed for a single story 2000 sqft house. Trane XR13 4 ton AC condenser - 13seer, 14seer with matching system. Trane XR80 5 ton 1 stage with 4 speed blower. New matching evaporator coil with the new R-410A refrigerant. New return and supply plenums, all sheet metal construction with exterior wrapped insulation. New manual air dampers at each supply duct. Added an extra return air duct, grill and filter to double existing volume of return. New drip pan with overflow float switch (cuts off system if drainage gets blocked - keeps the ceiling from getting water damage). New electrical disconnect and wiring (located outside by the condenser). New concrete pad. New programmable thermostat. Did all the work required to rid and clean system of old coolant, hauled away old system and did a relatively good job cleaning up. This new system is so much cooler and has better airflow than the old one and should be more efficient. I really wanted the sheet metal plenums with EXTERIOR insulation and the manual dampers. This should really pay off in the long run for comfort and health. Next time I should just have to replace the AC condenser. Furnace later. All in all I think I got a good deal and I'm pretty sure the work is A+. I paid a little extra for the plenums, dampers and for Trane products. One reason I went with this contractor instead of the others is this contractor continually offered top notch material, construction and products without me having to ask. The others would match the packages and price only after I asked for the better stuff. This really spoke about the quality of work I could expect, and the contractors doing the work matters more than the brand name. But since I could get the best brand name Trane products with top notch quality workmanship, it really was a no brainer. I actually spent just a little more for this company than the slightly cheaper one for the same work.

It's smarter to put the leach field in the best place and then accommodate that location rather than put the field in a less desirable place and try to make it work. Septic requirements vary based on locale and governing authority but it should be no surprise to the septic installer that water always flows DOWNHILL. Output filters have been required for a while and if you're saying that the leach field is saturating all the way uphill and back flowing into the filter clogging it then you have a more serious problem than a filter element change, which may not be legal, will correct. If the septic installer is licensed and the job was permitted and inspected then I would contact the inspector and have him/her out to the property to see if the installed drain curtain meets requirements and to advise him/her of the problems you are having. If it meets requirements but is not resolving the problem then the resolution is with the septic installer to make it operate correctly. You don't want the symptom treated you want the disease cured and that may require an attorney but try to resolve the problem with the installer first cause it will cost you both less without lawyers getting involved.

Typically recommended that GDs not be used with septic systems. If you plan to have one I've never heard of there being any that are better or worse for septic systems. I had one for years before I bought a home with septic. The new place had one but I rarely used it. It's pretty easy to adjust to not using one especially if you compost which you can usually find a place to do if you have a property with a septic system.

catlady999weedmeisterPatricia Colwell Consulting From what I am reading online for Ontario code it is not required to vent it out however I can understand why we should do it now regardless. I have to talk to the builder about this. Please see page 3 in this document: https://www.carst.ca/resources/Documents/CGSB-149.11-2015CD-01.pdf