Taylor King is all upholstery; Lexington had both upholstery & casegoods, Stanley only casegoods unless they have recently added upholstery. I would say the order is correct & Hooker would be the lowest price point. Also don't count out Bassett for a mid line upholstery & casegood line they are pretty good; I know upholstery is done here in the states however frames may be imported & also their custom casegoods line is done here in the states, at least the finishing process the actual frames may be imported; I could check on that if you want. Lexington's upholstery is also done in the US for the most part.

What did you decide? Did you learn anything more about Cabico? I am looking into Cabico too... I have heard good things from local friends and their kitchens look lovely but I wonder about long term wear and tear... If you got them would you be willing to share your experience? I am close to making a choice. I did find this article, Maybe it can help you too. https://www.mainlinekitchendesign.com/general/kitchen-cabinet-ratings-2017-reviews-top-selling-cabinet-lines/ Cabico got a B in the ratings. A is great, and D is not. Merrilat and Yorktowne got below a C.. I had Yorktowne in my last house and they were fine. Nothing special. So if Cabico is B. I am would be willing to use them.

@Gail Harrison - Your bedroom need not match your family room as they are two different animals and can be decorated differently. Light furniture is actually my preference in a bedroom so it is serene and restful. Which color of the RH furniture are you drawn to? The Antique White, the light oak? Will you be doing a fabric insert? All this plays into what the nightstands could be. If you selected the light oak panel bed with a light fabric and matching dresser, then you could do some white /off white nightstands. It seems like your current bedding would work in this situation. I do think you'd need new bedside lamps, but those can be found at a Homegoods, etc. What are your thoughts on the colors, and have you seen the wood samples in person?

The quality of the product will depend on the price point you can afford. Nice quality starts around $4/sf (CoreTec comes in around $5/sf when on sale). You are looking get as close to these points as possible: 20mil wear layer (thickness of urethane coating over the vinyl itself) 5mm total thickness or better Rigid plank (8mm thick SPC core, etc) The one thing you need to know as a homeowner: 1. The labour to install ONLY covers installation - nothing else 2. Subfloor preparation is going to be more expensive than you imagined 3. The homeowner is responsible for the appropriateness of the material chosen What does this mean? You will need to pay for removal/disposal of carpet ($1/sf is common). You will pay for removal/disposal of tile ($2/sf is common). That's the demolition side of things. Now onto the PREPARATION side of things. You will need to pay for subfloor preparation. Vinyl needs FLAT and SMOOTH! Seriously...the thinner the vinyl plank the MORE work you need done. Be aware that carpet hides the WORST subfloors in the building industry. The subfloor under the tile will be in better shape than the carpeted area....no I'm not kidding. So preparation costs are often $2/sf (can be as high as $4/sf....but that is rare...but be prepared for it just in case). The time added to the job is another 1-3 days depending on square footage and size of the crew. Excellent. You have now paid (roughly) $4-$6/sf and you STILL need the floor installed. The cost of the product (we'll assume $5/sf) and the install ($2.50 - $3/sf is common for vinyl) adds another $7.50/sf. What is the SIZE of your project? How much carpet? How much tile? And what is your TOTAL budget once all the items are paid for and installed? Sometimes it is easier to start at the END and work backwards.