I just wanted to say that we recently installed Kabinart cabinets in our kitchen and we are very happy with them. When I originally looked for Kabinart reviews on here there weren't many and it made me a little nervous. We did a maple perimeter in starlight and a glazed cherry island. Interestingly enough cherry and maple were the same price, and they come standard all plywood, full extension and soft close drawers (I think a lot of the cabinet manufacturers are moving towards this). In contrast we ordered our master vanities from Kraftmaid and when they came in the drawer glides were all messed up, and they just didn't seem to have quite the same quality, although I'm sure if we had done our kitchen in Kraftmaid we would still be happy with it. We priced both lines and they were coming in pretty comparable. The only thing I didn't like with Kabinart were the cheap plastic shelf clips so I ordered metal ones, but other than that we have been very happy with the shipping/packing of them and with the quality of them during use (especially with 3 small children).

Window4U is actually a very good contractor by the name of Dave that runs probably the most well respected window replacement company in Chicago. His phone number is on the website as well. I suggested several brands in my previous post. The 4 brands that you have looked at so far are average at best and all high pressure sales organizations. You will get long sales pitches that start with vinyl windows costing over 1K per unit and drop as you haggle. That is an exhausting process and especially if you consider that the 4 windows that they would try to sell you are middle of the pack at exorbitant prices.

To be even slightly informed about this subject, you would have to read quite a few hood and make-up air (MUA) related threads on this forum. We could also point you to commercial literature that one might extrapolate from. I can provide a somewhat standard spiel touching on the highlights. I cannot provide reviews of hoods I haven't owned. There are two maxims that one might keep in mind. (a) Performance, aesthetics, affordable cost -- pick two. (b) The most efficient hoods (cooking plume capture and containment performance per watt of electricity usage) are commercial hoods. For an idea of commercial hood design and function, read the first dozen pages of the Greenheck Guide, available from: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf. What a hood system is expected to accomplish is capture and containment. Capture is effected by having a hood canopy that overlaps the rising and expanding cooking effluent plumes so that these plumes pass into the hood volume, preferably under their own power. Containment is effected by pulling the plumes through the hood filter system -- preferably baffles for most serious hoods -- and thence via the ducting to the outside. Containment requires adequate volumetric flow rate (CFM in the USA). Flow rate achieved depends on the blower selected and the pressure losses moving air through the baffles, through the hood, through the ducting, and through the roof or wall cap to outside, and then, most importantly, the pressure losses in getting fresh outside air back into the kitchen (MUA). Flow rate required depends on the velocity of the cooking plumes and the area of the hood entry aperture. Obviously, one wants the achieved flow rate to equal the required flow rate. But wait, there's more: The specified flow rate for blowers is that achieved at zero pressure loss. The flow rate at some pressure loss is less, just like strangling a water hose decreases water flow. One has to specify a blower strong enough that for the conditions present the desired flow rate can be achieved. (Not otherwise addressed here are the desirable hood features of lighting and blower control.) Fortunately, in many cases we can apply rules of thumb to the selection criteria. Some arithmetic is required. Overlap the hood by at least 3 inches relative to the cooktop or range top on all sides not including a wall. For a 24 inch [front-to-back] range, achieving a 27 inch wall hood may be difficult or interfere with sight lines or head position; in such a case a 21 or 24 inch hood front-to-back depth may do with some plume escape possible. Calculate the area of the hood aperture in square feet and multiply by 90 ft/min to find desired CFM. Multiply that result by 1.5 to roughly find a specified CFM that should work. Choose a duct diameter per the hood installation directions, but the goal is an air velocity in the duct between 1000 and 2000 ft/min. This equals the desired CFM divided by the duct sectional area in sq. ft. Choose duct paths that minimize length and bends, but these are not prohibited. MUA is an entire topic by itself. The goal is to allow air to get from the outside to the kitchen, heated or not depending on circumstances, and lightly filtered, such that the pressure loss from outside to inside is low. In some cases, this may require a blower in the MUA duct. Many simple configurations are possible, along with more complex ones. Search out MUA threads here. Overall, the hood and MUA systems can reach the same price as a high-end range price, and easily exceed the price of an economical induction cooktop.

IMO 2K is the low price point for a good quality sofa and with no idea of your needs fo the sofa or your style hard to even rccommnend a maker . Not sure what you are asking for as to rating.I rarely buy fabric furniture and as for leather I almost always buy Italian IMO any sofa with springs no matter how many times they are tied wear out and the Italian system of webbing last a very long time. My old sofa that is 40 yrs old Italian leather and webbing is now in our son's basement and he had the pillows and custions restuffed but nothing done to the webbong and he says it is just like anew sofa