Dwarf, semi-dwarf or full size for fastest production?
John Hrusovszky
2 years ago
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Rootstock Preference (Dwarf, semi-dwarf, or standard)
Comments (3)Thapranksta: Your question is a bit difficult as most orchards do not plant all their apples on one rootstock. Often they use several different ones based on what was available when they bought the trees, what pruning/spacing system they wanted for that orchard block,ect. Sometimes hardiness is an issue. For example hardy standard rootstocks (antonovka, prunifola, ranetka ect) are necessary in super cold regions such as ND,SD, WY,MT ect. Most other areas abandoned standard rootstocks years ago as they grow too tall to easily prune/spray/pick. Easier with dwf or semi-dwarf rootstocks. Often spur-type or low vigor varieties (Jonathan) need to be on a less dwarfing rootstock or they runt out and never amount to anything. I hate the terms dwarf or semi-dwarf as too generic. Orchards years ago in WI where I live switched to using M7 as semi-dwarf and free-standing, however they pruduce tons of root suckers. Now the hot rootstocks are Bud 9 & Nick 29 but these trees must be staked for the life of the tree. M26 is still used (8'-12' tall trees) but more prone to fireblight and can tip in heavy clay soils. Every rootstock has advantages and disadvantages depending on climate, soil type, low density planting or high density planting (Tall spindle) ect. My 17 tree hobby orchard has apples on M7, MM111, and yes even 4 on a standard rootstock. I vase prune heavily on some for height control. Others seem jsut fine. My site is weird as very low nitrogen levels. I have to fertilize heavily on new trees and even lightly on old ones or the leaf color is poor. I find my apple trees do not grow as tall at my site as other sites I have grown at. Hence my need for more vigorous rootstocks. Nobody can make you a good suggestion unless we know what soil type you have, are you willing to stake each tree permanently or want free standing orchard ect. Can you provide more information? When you do purchase your trees, watch out! Many mail order and almost all retail outlets will either list them as dwf, semi-dwf or no listing at all. Always ask what rootstock they are on. Don't buy if they can't tell you. A Mcintosh on M26 will be quite shorter than one on MM111. You cannot properly space your trees if you have no idea what rootstock they are on. In fact, one mail order place I called had Cortland on two different rootstocks. After the trees were harvested, they are all mixed together since both rootstocks are "semi-dwarf". Big difference though when some were on M7 and others on Bud 118....See MoreSemi-Dwarf Blackberry
Comments (5)I hope that plant grows and produces a bounty of easily maintained, harvested, and eaten berries that you enjoy for years to come. I haven't come accross that one before but I'll have to take a look next time I'm at Home Depot. The descriptions sounds pretty funny, like something that TyTy nursery would sell. Blackberries don't grow on trees. The "semi-dwarf" designation is vague and misleading enough when used to describe fruit trees, but isn't normally used for cane fruits at all. The fact that they call it "tree" and "semi-dwarf" make all of the other claims less than credible. I wouldn't buy berries from them without at least the variety name. Later, when you want to add another variety to extend your season, or for a change of flavor or whatever other reason you won't know what you have. If I were to stretch my imagination and assume that the use of "semi-dwarf" was intentional, then I guess they mean that this is an erect cultivar that isn't very vigorous (oops, I just reread to say it will "grow faster" so I can't even guess what they mean) All blackberries are of the genus rubus, as are rasberries and other aggregate berries, so that doesn't tell you anything other than the fact that at least whoever made the label knows that blackberries fall in that genus. If you like surprises, have a lot of space for it where you have the flexibility of adding a trellis or other support you might need once you learn its growth habit, and you aren't particular about fruit qualities such as when they ripen, size, firmness, flavor etc, then I'd say you'll be in good shape however it turns out. If you have some contraints in one of those areas then perhaps you are taking your chances, but it could be exciting to see how it turns out. Let us know. P.S. This reminds me that at our Home Depot the picture on the packaging doesn't even always match the type of fruit. I recall on a black raspberry them having a picture of blackberries. I wouldn't buy them unless I was in the "grab bag"/"surprise me" state of mind....See Moresemi-dwarf fruit trees
Comments (16)Brandon, I'm going to disagree with you :-) First, box stores are NOT nurseries - they sell plants only as a sideline and suitability, selection or even current condition are of minimal concern to them. They buy in bulk regionally and they buy cheap. Operations that specialize in growing and/or selling plants only are where the OP should be looking. And these places DO focus on varieties that are best suited for local growing conditions. Retail nurseries that want to stay in business for any length of time rely on customer satisfaction to do so - offering plants that are not well-suited to local growing conditions are not the way to encourage any kind of repeat business. Sure, they may offer some things that are of questionable value or hardiness but it is not going to be something as basic as fruit trees. And with fruit trees, heating and chilling requirements that match the local climate are of paramount importance.....if it is not going to produce fruit or ripen the fruit successfully in that area, what's the point of growing it? As to supply or varieties, the one source I mentioned offered 7 different apples, 7 different pears, 4 plums and 2 pomegranates.....not a bad selection to choose from in my book. And they include many of the varieties especially called out as recommended good performers for that area by the Texas Agricultural extension service. And FWIW, fruit trees sold by retail nurseries in my area, while sold as potted plants, were initially received in late winter as bare root stock.......much the same as one would purchase online (although admittedly on the larger end). They are potted as soon as received to maintain the root systems in as optimal a condition as possible. Failure of bare root stock of any kind is typically much higher than if one purchased the same stock potted -- there is just too much chance for damage to that exposed and vulnerable root system. IF local nurseries offer the plants in sufficient selection, then I would encourage anyone to purchase these plants before ordering online. Here is a link that might be useful: Recommended fruit varieties...See Moresemi dwarf fuji apple tree
Comments (5)FIW, the highest leaves in my well-watered, mature avocado and cherimoya trees got fried in that freak heat spell. I've never seen that before. .... Sorry about your apple. Al is correct. Chances are that fuji will recover. You may want to ask in the Fruit & Orchard Forum. I think I'd wonder how to tell if the tree has had such a bad set back that its future production will be compromised. Might want to cut your losses and replace the tree. Here is a link that might be useful: Fruit & Orchard Forum...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJohn Hrusovszky
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJohn Hrusovszky thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)Granite City Services
2 years ago
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