Replace lawn patch in courtyard - suggestions
2 years ago
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Ideas for replacing a patch of weeds with something no-mow
Comments (5)Okay, I can see it now -- but I didn't get there directly, so I'll point out what I did that eventually let me see the photo. This has happened to me before. Google/Picasa asks me to sign up for an account; I tell them no. I don't remember exactly where that takes me, but Google wants me to log in to my gmail account. At that point, I right-click on the Back button to open the drop-down menu of previous pages, and left-click on this thread to return here. Then I click on lukener's Picasa link again and there's the photo of the hill! === Well, of all the things I thought I might see in that photo, I definitely wasn't expecting that wall! What's growing down it? How much water comes out of the weep holes (the round pipes in the wall) in a good rain? Is the area nice and damp after a rain, or does the water run off? What's the soil like? Is that a small concrete path (or perhaps a bit of old foundation) between the grass and the weedy area? [Yes, I know this is probably more work than you're interested in, but ... particularly if the soil's thin, stony, or otherwise not good, I'd be tempted to add something -- edging or a few inches of recycled concrete slabs, extra cinder blocks, or chunks of rock -- along the concrete to make the area into a raised bed. It wouldn't be a very deep raised bed: just level with the base of the existing Big Gray Wall. Fill up the bed with whatever you can find: leaves, grass clippings, dirt if you have any extra, cardboard -- anything you'd put in a compost pile (including kitchen waste). Add earthworms occasionally when you come across them in other parts of the garden.] Something to add about free wood chips: even if a tree service won't give them to you for free (they're delivering them to you, after all) the price may still be a bargain. If you're not in a hurry, they might be willing to drop some off for a lower price the next time they're in your neighborhood. Also, you could ask your county's Cooperative Extension office for garden club sale info, or sources of free or low-cost mulch or even manure. http://extension.osu.edu/locate-an-office...See Morewill small lawn patch a t a time work
Comments (11)I think you might have your zone wrong. A 3 or 4 would probably correspond to northern Canada. Philidelphia is generally considered a 7. As the others said it's too late to seed in Phily now, you will be wasting your money trying to start a lawn plus the weeds will love all the watering and fertilizer. Also cheap fixes, as in most cases, are only worth what you pay, which is little to nothing. Since it's too late to seed, you should focus on killing weeds and getting your lawn and soil in great shape for seeding time, which should be around Sept. 1 for you. Pulling weeds is fine, if you want to spend hours doing it, making divots in your lawn, and redoing it in a month or so. Buy a hose end sprayer, and get some Weed-B-Gone max or Bayer Advanced Weed and Crabgrass Killer and use as directed. The clover might need a second treatment of something like Ortho's Clover, Chickweed, and Oxalis treatment, but I think the Bayer Advanced might take care of it all at once. Tupersan is a crabgrass preemergent, and is probably too late to apply now if you already have crabgrass germinating. If you don't you could put some down if you want to prevent the later germinating seeds. After you get your soil test back you can start to get your soil in shape for the late summer. Also that Patchmaster in my opinion is a waste of money. It contains mediocre seeds, and is mostly paper mulch that takes forever to dissolve. You will probably save money just buying good seeds that you want to plant. For full sun in Phily you can't go wrong with Kentucky Bluegrass, it produces some beautiful turf. You could also go with perennial rye or turf type tall fescue, both produce nice turf as well, but as a bunch type grass it doesn't spread like KBG. Warm season grass will be dormant for 5 or 6 months out of the year, and isn't a great option for you....See MorePatching lawn in winter?
Comments (1)How picky is your landlord about the bare spots, and how long before you move? Lowe's sells Pennington brand lawn patch mixtures that cover up to 200 square feet (seed, fertilizer, and mulch) for about $10-$15. Probably has some quick-germinating perennial and/or annual rye seed. If you follow directions for planting and watering you could probably generate sufficient seedling growth in three to four weeks to convince your landlord to return your deposit, provided she's not too finicky. If you have six to eight weeks before you have to move it'll probably look better than the rest of the lawn....See MoreLawn Replacement
Comments (4)Irish moss is not really a moss at all and does best in a lot of sun and adequate water. The rupturewort (Herniaria) can work very well - very shade tolerant, low growing and stands up well to foot traffic. But slow growing and will take some time to fill in from plugs. I seriously doubt you will have that much coverage by September, but it depends on how close you plant the plugs. Blue star creeper (Isotoma or Pratia depending on variety) could be another choice and quite a bit faster growing. It's hard to find seeds for groundcovers - starting from plugs is much more common. And personally, I'd remove all traces of the lawn before planting. One, it will look much better and you will also remove any potential of regrowth from a less than complete kill. And if you do plant from seed, you want that dead grass out of there so seeds can make proper contact with the soil for good germination. If this is a large area, you might want to consider converting to more of a planting area with low growing shade tolerant perennials and shrubs rather than just focusing on a groundcover. You can always include hardscaping like walkways or even a paved seating area to reduce the total planted area yet allow for good circulation....See More- 2 years ago
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