Orchid Repotting??
Marissa Brown
2 years ago
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Comments (13)
Marissa Brown
2 years agopopmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Species native to Thailand
Comments (1)Here is one for you to consider. Here is a link that might be useful: Dendrobium devonianum...See Moreorchid repot questions
Comments (16)Hi Jane, Thanks so much for your help! Sorry about the website...is there a way to put pictures in the body of the message? Not too good at this stuff! :) From October to April, the orchids are in my bathroom sitting by a small south-facing window with a white blind to block the direct rays. I have the paph the furthest away so it doesn't get as much light. May to September, they are in my back porch (3 season), which is also south facing and with white curtains blocking the direct rays of the sun. I have never fertilized these plants, and I water once a week or less, depending on how wet the plants are. The phal has some new growth that is looking promising, and the den looks like it's doing ok. The paph's leaves are slightly yellowing on the outsides. I'm happy to repost the photos with some tech assistance! I am planning on repotting this weekend unless otherwise recommended. I'm going to *try* and post a photo in this message......See MoreNew to orchids, repotting cymbidium questions.
Comments (8)Hi freki, Honestly, there are so many answers I could give you here, but with orchids, you will learn that the answer is often "it depends". First, potting. (P.S. Don't worry about pot depth, Cymbidiums love deep pots.) Personally, I pot most of my orchids, Cymbidiums included, in a mixture of small orchid bark, New Zealand sphagnum moss and horticultural perlite, with a dash of charcoal. However, I'm in the Ottawa area, where summers are warm and very humid, winters are long and cold, and my orchids spend most of the year inside under lights to supplement what natural light they get. With this mix, in my conditions, I water once a week in winter and two or three times in summer depending on the size of the pot, and I repot every 12 to 18 months. If you're in the West, for example, your conditions will be very different. This is the ultimate advantage of joining an orchid society - you can talk to growers who have similar conditions to you and find out what works for them. You can also take a look at the medium it's trying to grow out of. If it's that vigorous with it, maybe try for something similar. As for growing conditions. One of the reasons you may be finding so many contradictions is that there are different types of Cymbidiums each with different cultural requirements. Standard Cymbidiums need as much light as you can possibly give them and night temps down to pretty much freezing in the fall. Chinese Cymbidiums are more forgiving, and will bloom with about the same amount of light as Oncidiums (more than Phals, less than Cattleyas) and a moderate cool down in the fall. And then there are hybrids between the two, with breeders wanting the amazing flowers of standard Cyms with the easy growing habits of Chinese Cyms. A good rule of thumb, though, is to give your Cymbidium as much light as it can stand (experiment by gradually putting it in more light, and see when the leaves start feeling hot to the touch, which means pull it back a little). As well, give it more water when it is actively growing (water it just as it us starting to be completely dry and be diligent about fertilizer) than when you don't (at those times, water when it's dry and fertilize very lightly if at all). I have not found that they are very particular about humidity most of the time, only when it's flowering. If your Cymbidium is putting out new growths and each of those growths is larger than the previous one, you're doing very well, just be patient. My first Cymbidium produced many new growths for almost two years without a single flower. I was thinking real hard about getting rid of it when the bloody thing put out ten spikes. So keep on going, and welcome to the wonderful and sometimes frustrating world of orchids. Julie...See More1st rescue orchid
Comments (14)Bloody hell! Your orchid looks great I say given the circumstances! You have 2 out of three. Leaves, check. Spike, check. Only roots to go. Mind can't see them from your photos. My rescued ones (discounted from shops just before eminent doom) looked a lot worse when bought. Good luck! I am an amateur with loads of reading and somewhat attempts at growing orchids. I have just over ten up North (I recently moved across country and left them with mum) - these I posted about before on the forum (people were great with advise - I had them infected with larvae - but all good now touch wood). I have 5 at my new place (1 vanda) + 4 that I got for my sister. A few tips (mind you, you don't have to follow them - as each to their own ... my first advise on watering when I bought my first orchid six and a half years ago I no longer follow ... soaking method never worked out): - orchid leaves are not meant to be a gorgeous deep green (so the books tell us). So maybe a little closer to light. Mind they look good so might not be a must/must. Some of mine are deep colour, but hey ho there is a limited amount of sunshine one can get. - I read somewhere either a little cold or dark (not sure which) can get the blooms to open faster. - tight roots in clear plastic pot is good. If you repot it with space they will concentrate on root growth instead of flowering. - I water mine in bathroom. Once a week as its winter (but only if they dry - patting the bottom of pot if it has holes or checking the colour of roots ... green still moist light green need water). I pour loads of tepid water in the morning all over roots and bark avoiding leaves and crown and let them drain + spray the leaves and roots with special spray. - I mostly try to avoid ceramic pots (my preference). I like the way roots look in clear pots and I can tell quicker how good they are. I use shallow hand made ceramic bowls or plates instead (+roots have photosynthesis I hear): https://www.facebook.com/craigeylesceramics?fref=ts mind you I do also have a few oversized pots (so I can easily lift the plastic ones out). - repotting I hear needs to be done once in 1 -2 years. In spring or summer ... you don't want your orchid freezing. Don't know about where you live but hey ho nothing works in the garden/ home depot places in the UK. The generic stuff is too dirt based, gets soggy easily and does not drain. I bought some: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Orchid-Repotting-Kit-Orchid-Pot-Repotting-Mix-100ml-Orchid-Myst-Instructions-/291328763815?pt=UK_HomeGarden_Garden_PlantsSeedsBulbs_JN&hash=item43d48c27a7 Well not the kit ... massive bag of the stuff and spray separately. Mind you it ain't the best + quality hit and miss sometimes... but loads better that the garden centres stuff. I am planning to buy the next mix from a proper orchid nursery in Spring. With maybe some charcoal. If you repotting maybe search youtube ... I found a few helpful videos. If you'd like some tips let me know. It is advised when bought a bad conditioned orchid to repot it straight away (but I'd guess not in winter nor when its blooming unless you cutting off the spike... tends to correspond for phals). I am not perfect and will never be ... (right temperatures?! in this economy ...). I used to underwater mine ... getting better now. But orchids are the only plants that I had that survived this so I would say they are quite strong. I do refere to phalaenopsis species. Vandas I have no clue ... panicking like hell for it to not die....See Morejane__ny
2 years agoMarissa Brown
2 years agoMarissa Brown
2 years agojane__ny
2 years agomom2zandt
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2 years agomindazetlin
2 years agojane__ny
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2 years agomindazetlin
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