42"+72" = 114" 66" + 72" = 138" Is the space you need in the room in order to walk around and sit at the table and you don't have that. You usually want about 12" minimum of space around the rug so that would be 141.5" - 24"= 117.5" 102.5" - 24" = 78.5"

info found online: For starters, remember that lighting from a chandelier, no matter what the setting, should make a room, people, home furnishings and prized possessions look their very best. So it’s important to hang the chandelier in the right spot and at the proper height for maximum impact. A chandelier in a dining room setting should be positioned in the center of the dining table and room proportions. Avoid purchasing chandeliers that are larger than the width of your table, as people may bump into it when getting up. A handy rule of thumb is that a chandelier should be 12 inches narrower than a table and have at least 48 inches of space from each of the room walls or edges. Hang a chandelier approximately 30 to 34 inches over a table with an 8 foot ceiling height. If your ceiling is higher than 8 feet, mount the chandelier an additional 3 inches higher for each foot of ceiling. Keep in mind that lighting from a chandelier that beams directly onto a person from above can cast unflattering facial shadows. The heat from bulbs directly overhead can also be uncomfortable. Avoid high wattage bulbs. They will increase the heat and cause excessive table glare.

The first sectional is 100” x100” not 7.5’ your room is only 120” wide so no to that one the orange one would be better but it depends on how you place it and IMO no better than an actual sofa for seating 2 people can’t fit on the chaise .Samr for the last one. Look at sofas instead, get that then see how much space you have you could maybe add a chair or depending on the sofa maybe 2 small chairs . Your dining table needs a min of 36” for the table and 24” all the way around for chairs so that is 7’ x 10’ That will pretty much fill your space . The easiest way to try out pieces is to cut them out of cardboard to scale and play with them in the space when you place measure the walk space then try that out in real life on your floor. IMO you need 36” walk spaces . Use graph paper for the main to scale floor plan it makes it easier to figure walk space.

Is that a powder room or pantry in the top right corner? You can probably fit this plan (m/l) without changing the entries, but I think it's an interesting option. At 11'7", the aisle between peninsula and fridge could be almost 48" (with a CD fridge). High chairs (if you still use those) could go on the short sides of the table, then kids could move to the bench as they grow. Open DW door would block access to upper cabs to the left, so dishes would be stored to the right of the sink. I guessed at some measurements, and the first drawing is not to scale: ETA, two entry option. Prep space is smaller, but again, not to scale: