Brandon7 writes: "I can't imagine why maintaining them in pots would be preferable to growing in-ground" In my experience I've found that pawpaws are more adversely affected by shipping bare-root than many other types of fruit trees - it appears that their root systems, consisting of many fine rootlets are more vulnerable to the various stresses inherent in this process, and transplantation shock to a greater or less degree is the rule. The focus should be to prevent, or if necessary, to decrease the severity of the shock. So buying container grown plants shipped in their container would be best; these can be planted directly in the ground with good results. But if the tree is sent bare-root, there will of necessity be root damage and transplantation shock, and this setback can reduce the vigor of the plant for years. The best remedy I've found to lessen the shock is to provide an optimal environment for the stressed and damaged roots to allow quick recovery. This goal is much better achieved in a pot, where growing conditions, including most importantly the medium and the moisture content, are more readily controlled. It really makes no sense to plant a struggling shocked pawpaw in topsoil with resultant loss of many of the damaged roots and prolongation of the shock state. The focus here is on the short term problem of allowing roots damaged by bare-rooting to recover; once this has occurred, evidenced by vigorous vegetative growth, the tree is ready for planting in the garden.

It never occurred to me to take or post photos of burned up foliage. Most burn issues are a result of improper planting location or not having the correct information of the plants needs for survival. In the case of Fagus sylvatics 'rosema......... tri-color'. It needs filtered sun light. Planting this tree under the umbrella of a larger tree works very well. East side filtered shard works very well also. I saw Kens Fagus a few posts back in full sun...not good. He should know better. Beautiful tree by the way but I would surmise color was washed out by early to mid summer. 'Skylands' filtered screening for at least 2 years...minimum. When acclimated full sun is required. Simple as that. Acer palms...requirements are different for each cultivar. People buy these things by the 1000's and toast them every year. Dave

Sorry, here is the live link--I need to learn how to use this website. I know it is sort of a long shot that people know much about Chatham--I tried doing a search but not much popped up. The company looks good, but if anyone has bought one of their peices I would appreciate hearing your story :). Sort of a long shot, but thought I would try. Normally I would never buy furniture online, but it is getting really hard to find furniture in light wood tones. We have a beautiful diningroom set (with china hutch and side board) from Ethan Allen's Swedish Home collection that is a light-golden natural maple tone. That room flows into our livingroom, which we have a substantial Stanley desk that is also a light wood, as well as a new Thomasville television console (Attache collection) in light wood. We are replacing the coffee table and side table in that same room, so we need it to be in the same light wood family. Thomasville no longer sells the Attache collection, but I didn't really like the style of the coffee table anyway. I know that you can mix wood tones, but we also *like* lighter wood tones for our house. We have hardwood floors throughout the house that are a beautiful light honey color (wide plank). We also vaulted the ceiling when we moved in and covered it with Alaskan cedar, which is a beautiful blonde tone much like our hardwood floor. This is a California ranch house in the Bay Area. So the light wood has worked for us, obviously--but now is VERY hard to find in furniture. I keep telling my husband in 5-8 years we will be right in style! We just ordered a new sectional couch and leather chair for the livingroom, and we wanted to replace the coffee table and side table, but were stuck as far as choices for our light wood tone. I found this Chatham furniture online, and it looks to be perfect for us. I love that I can display my seashells under the glass top. Thanks for reading! Take care. I have learned a lot from lurking here lately. Lisa Here is a link that might be useful: Chatham Cocktail Table

Sigh. My potholders only remind me of Bloomingdale's (they were on sale). Given laundering the normal amount for potholders, which is usually once or twice a year, plus once or twice more for when they get actually dirty, I really do think the printer fabric would work. You could also do block or screen prints (alas, Print Gocco, you are but a memory). You can easily carve a styro block, like computer packing, and prime it with gesso or acrylic medium, since you're only printing a few. Since you're good with mimeo, does that mean you're good with screen printing stencils? That would be so easy if you have the set up! For just a few prints, you can tape the stencil to a blank screen (true for hand cut too) rather than having to create a whole new screen for each. Anyway, laundry wouldn't be my first concern (you can always make a few extra prints, and have a lifetime supply). The problem with painting is knowing which medium is going to like touching a 450ð oven rack. Without looking things up, I'm guessing inks or dyes would be better than paints, but you can brush those on too, with the right medium. Or you could just cut paper stencils, adhere them well, and adhere to a stiff backing, and spray with car engine paint. Since you have some art/drawing/painting experience, I think doing it by hand would be the best, easiest way, if you can't do direct printing. I know a bunch of different ways to get an image onto cloth, but sometimes doing it by hand is just a lot easier, especially since you're not trying to get photographic detail. :) Actually, if you can't get the images you want made for you, I'm thinking that the engine paint might be the easiest and most durable. :)