You will get the best results by thoroughly loosening what you have to a depth of at least 6"-8". The reason for this is: with a loose base, the grass roots can grow down deeply into the soil and form a strong grass plant that is far more tolerant of heat and that can get really thick and keep weeds out. Just a shallow inch of fresh stuff on top, and the roots stay in that shallow inch. When the roots are just in that shallow inch, the grass needs a lot more water, is weaker and more easily stressed by our hot weather. Deep loosening of the soil is really more important than amending the soil. Grass will grow in anything in Southern California, given sufficient water and fertilizer.

Yeah you are right I meant sanding. Not too worried if a salesman can tell the thickness or not as it is easily measured on samples. To me the thickness of the veneer matters as far as dents and how many times I could sand something. We all know accidents happen and in my experience the thicker veneer works better for dents and not get splinters as a friend did when dropping something it chipped the thin veneer on their 3/8 overall thick Bruce. I don't mind dents, but rather not have the veneer chipped when I do make a dent. Bruce still says you can re-sand 3 times on their coastal woodlands at least on the sample boards. When looking at Robbins in the warranty on the fifth avenue plank that I have and they still sell it still shows 3 times for sanding.

Thanks for the input, lynn. I'm not familiar with floating floors, and I appreciate hearing from someone who is. Sounds like a lot less prep.

As above. The wide plank (anything 5" or wider is considered 'wide' by the industry) must have a 'glue assist' if you use nails/cleats/staples. That is an added expense...that's why wide plank wood floors are a serious upgrade. If you are going to use a glue-assist, then a full spread glue WITHOUT the nails is just the next step. And as G & S points out, the nailing down of thin planks (3/4" is the industry 'gold standard') could lead to more problems. And of course, being in SC you will want to make sure you have the HVAC system updated (it it needs it) to include a whole home humidistat (includes humidifier or dehumidifier or both depending on your local year round climate). Before you do anything, make sure your HVAC system has the RIGHT attachments to handle a home full of wood flooring. Traditionally that requires an upgrade....but not always (we've seen some homes that already come with the top of the line HVAC systems that have all the bells and whistles already attached).