The "oil finishes" are hardwax oil products that are applied as a single coat. They are traditionally a matte finish and they require maintenance by the homeowner. You must be prepared for the maintenance. Many of the factory finished engineered floors with oil finishes can require (or would benefit from) an application of maintenance oil applied as soon as they are installed. This isn't a huge issue (because it is relatively easy) but it is something that most people do not know and therefore "miss" the opportunity to add this little bit of extra love at the beginning. Once installed, the oil floors are beautiful, raw-looking wood finish. They are low gloss. If you are someone who likes the look of a "clean shiny floor" then you will be horribly disappointed by the floors and will spend days and days trying to "clean" the floors to a "shine" - without any success. Tears are soon to follow. As for "UV oil finish" this is just a fun way of saying the factory used UV lights to speed up the curing of the finish. Instead of 2-3 days, the cure can be reduced to a few minutes under UV lighting. That's it. That's the whole difference. Other than that, UV cured vs. natural cured hardwax "oil" finishes are the same beast. If you love the look of oil finished flooring, then go for it. But PLEASE FIND OUT the maintenance requirements and purchase ALL of the maintenance products at the same time that you purchase the floor. That includes any "colour oil" products used to create the colour at the factory. Once the floor has been delivered, I would find a "culled" or warped plank (an imperfect plank that will not be installed) and start playing with your maintenance products on the board (or boards) so that you are well schooled BEFORE a little "oopsa" occurs. It will make your life MUCH easier.

You will need to choose your MOST IMPORTANT aspects of the floor. All floors scratch and show wear. Even porcelain tile will look 'lived on' after a while. A house with 10 people would be considered a high-wear situation. I would look for a floor that offers commercial grade wear. Engineered hardwood offers the benefit of being able to add acoustic underlayment. Whereas most vinyl products (95-99%) do not. They will need to be installed straight down onto the subfloor. Engineered hardwood can scratch...depending on the type of finish. It can handle spills that are cleaned up within 15 minutes of so (1/4 cup fluids) but it won't handle a large puddle (the entire gallon of milk sitting on the floor) for that long. Yes, vinyl scratches. Sure. But everything will - eventually. The 20mil finish on vinyl is going to be good enough for most households. For yours I would suggest getting tougher (30mil - 40mil) finish. There are a few of these out there...but not many. Again, the noise reduction won't be very good (it is cheaper to insulate the ceiling than it is to get any meaningful noise reduction underneath vinyl. These two issues need to be reconciled to your level of acceptance. A scratched, beaten up vinyl is still a viable, sound floor. It just doesn't look nice. An engineered hardwood will scratch as well...but eventually it can be brought to the point of plank failure (cracks/splits, wear through causing raw wood to be exposed). This level of wear on an engineered hardwood is rare (especially if you work with the super tough finishes on the high-end products) but it still can happen with a family of 10. I suggest you decide which is more important - pretty vs. functional vs. quiet. It would be hard to have all 3 with a family of 10.

That "medium" tone is going to come from a sand on site white oak hardwood floor. Your cabinetry is redder than your inspo. I just went through this with a client and a huge cherry kitchen. Dragged a hundred engineered in and out. We gave it up to sand on site, and put only a clear coat on. After trying at least seven stains. Truthfully? This the WHY of why you see slate, and tile in cherry or any other species that leans red. It's the why of painted kitchens.....as flooring gets more difficult if you want wood throughout. My client is coming back to paint his out next year - to a barely soft white, as there has been fading.....and he finally agreed he might love a brighter feel. After all the flooring of course in a whole house update. For you? It depends how open to other areas, but I'd go select white oak, get it installed, try a few stains, and DON'T be shocked if you leave it natural with clear coat. : ) You're redder...... Upstairs need not match. Pick an engineered. Stairs? Match your first floor, add a runner.

I have 3 huge dogs a hardwood floor would have been ruined long ago so we wnt a really nice good quality laminate that looks exactly like slate even to the fact it has some texture it has stood up for 16 yrs with those dogs not the same dogs but the same size. We have afull walkout basement the dogs have a huge dog run with a doggie door so in and out in all kinds of weather and we have apool with access to the basement bathroom we put LYP down there becuase of the moisture it is also 16 yrs old both floors look like new and the LVP is just a quick mop up at the end of the day. I guess what I am saying is how do you live . Our home is considered pretty high end . BTW I would not put new flooring on top of old it will create issues you never even though of . IMO a nice LVP beats a beat up wood floor