Problem with communicating AC
Greg
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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sktn77a
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Condensation problem in AC ducts in winter
Comments (7)jb I have had a similar issue and finally fixed it. I have a 3 year old home that is well insulated and tightly sealed. It is a 2 story home with a basement with geothermal heat/cooling. The second story of the home contains only guest bedrooms that are rarely used. The second floor has its own dedicated hvac and I set the stats to cover extreme temps (set temp = 60 in winter, 82 in summer). These settings cover the rare extreme temperature cases but also enure that the hvac unit doesn't normally need to run to save on heating/cooling costs. It turns out that in the winter the warm air rising from the first floor actually keeps the rooms on the second floor warm enough that I don't normally need to run the hvac unit upstairs. However, not running the hvac upstairs is what caused the condensation problem like you have. The key to the issue is that the insulted ducts for the second floor rooms run throughout the attic. Even though the ducts are insulated and my attic is over insulated, the air and surfaces inside the ducts will get very cold if the hvac is left off. When the warm air rising from the first floor gets into the duct inlets a lot of condensation forms. But I notcied that the condensation only formed when the outside temps fell below about 20 degrees. The first time this happened, I soaked up the water on the carpet and then turned on the heat and everything dried up. I also noticed that as long as I ran the heat up there I did not get condensation even when the temps outside dropped to zero. I figured out that as long as I kept warm air moving through the ducts that the condensation would not form. But I did not want to run the hvac up there all winter because it is a waste of money. I had an idea that whenever the temps dropped below 25, I went upstairs and turned on the hvac fan but left the heat off. The idea was that continuously moving the warm air from the second floor rooms (which naturally get heat from the first floor) through the attic ducts would be enough to keep the inside of those ducts warm enough to not create the condition for condensation to form. This process proved to work for me but was a bit of a pain. I had to always remember to go up and turn the fan on at night and then shut the fan off in the morning. But it worked. AFter one season on manually turning the hvac fan upstairs on and off I decided to automate the system. Since I have a zoning up there, I checked the manual for my zone contoller (EWC Controls Ultra Zone 4) and found out that is has a dry contact input for a carbon monoxcide sensor. This feature allows the automatic detection of CO (with a seperate CO sensor) and allows the hvac fan and a freash air inlet to be automatically turned on to circulate fresh air through the system. I used that CO dry contact input to hook up a battery operated progammable timer with a dry contact closure so that every night at 6pm the hvac fan turns on, and every morning at 6am the fan turns off. I only turn this timer on during the months when nightime temps drop below 25 (generally Jan & Feb). This fixed my problem and saved me the hastle of doing it manually. When this problem first surfaced I thought about sealing up the registers upstairs but decided against that approach becuase there are times when I do run the hvac (when we have guests or when it is really cold outside) and so I would have to run up there and take the seals off. There are quite a few regsiters and it just wasn't a practical solution even though it probably would have worked. The challenge is making sure that the seals are air tight....See MoreCommunity garden weed problems
Comments (5)Rototilling is the worst thing you can do with bermuda grass because even if you leave only a 1/4" piece of stolon every three feet or so, that is enough to enable the bermuda grass to completely take back the garden plot in just a couple of months. Hoes don't particularly work with bermuda grass as they often chop off the top growth and leave the stolons beneath ground. One way to (maybe, success not guaranteed) get rid of it before planting would be to rent a sod cutter and cut out all the bermuda sod/dirt in late winter/early spring before attempting to plant. That's similar to what Mars described but it doesn't involve digging---the sod cutter does it for you. You would have to use the sod cutter deeply enough to get out all the stolons. Then, to make up for the soil removed with the sod cutter, you'd have to bring in compost and other amendments to refill your garden plot to at least its original depth. I doubt that I would go to that much trouble for a single plot of land in a community garden unless I could keep the same plot year after year. What I'd do in your shoes is just keep digging it all out. It will keep coming back, but if you religiously dig it out before it becomes too deeply entrenched, eventually you realize that less and less is coming back each year. If the soil is soft enough that you can pull it out, pulling could work but often when people think they are pulling bermuda grass out, all they're doing is pulling runners off the stolon and leaving the stolon behind so make sure you aren't doing that. If your community garden allows the use of herbicides (some do, some don't because of herbicide drift issues), you could kill the grass with a herbicide, following label directions and carefully applying so no drift travels to adjacent gardens and kills their plants. Personally, because of herbicide drift, I'd never use a herbicide in a community garden area. I live on acreage in a rural area and I don't use herbicides either, but still get plant damage'plant death from people using them nearby---often multiple times a year. If you haven't planted yet, you could put down landscape fabric, cut holes in it where you want the plants or seeds to be planted, and plant. You would do this after you already had removed all the bermuda grass stolons to the best of your ability. Then cover the fabric with mulch a couple of inches thick. This isn't foolproof, but in a very weedy area it can help a great deal. You still will have to deal with weeds that come up in the cut hole areas beside your plants or seedlings, but it still will cut back on the weeds a great deal. You also may have weed seeds blow in or wash in during heavy rain and sprout in your mulch, so you'll have to pull them out before they can grow down through the mulch and through the landscape fabric. Dealing with bermuda grass is just a fact of life in this part of the country as it is incredibly aggressive and you cannot ignore it or it will take your garden plot away from you....See MoreWindow AC problem
Comments (5)Correct. He did not use the word 'dimming'. What he did say (and I forgot to mention this) is made obvious by an incandescent bulb powered from the same circuit. A wiring defect will cause voltage to drop (what he called 'power to dip'). If that voltage drop is massive, then even a router will reset. To reset a router requires a major voltage drop. Put numbers to it: a router will reset if 120 volts drops below 85. More numbers; that would probably cause an incandescent bulb to dim to less than 40% intensity. If any motorized appliances causes any noticeable dimming in an incandescent bulb, then a workmanship defect probably exists. If it dims to 50% or less, then that defect is probably quite serious. His defect is so bad that even a router is resetting. Most important: 'magic box' solutions are bogus. Do not cure symptoms. Always cure a defect. Today's electronics are happy even with greater voltage variations compared to yesterday's. Specs have advanced every decade. For example, electronics would power off if voltage dropped so low that a bulb dimmed to 50% intensity. Today's computers must be perfectly happy even when that bulb dims to 40% intensity. Despite popular fables, today electronics operate uninterrupted with even greater voltage variations. Unfortunately, too many are educated by myths, lies, hearsay, and wild speculation that promotes a UPS. The informed know a UPS is 'dirty' and temporary power to protect unsaved data. UPS does nothing to (and does not even claim to) protect hardware. How does one know? Responsible recommendations always include numbers. No number justifies a UPS. No number says today's electronics are more sensitive to voltage variations. But that is what naive consumers are told to believe by hearsay, wild speculation, salesmen, advertising, and subjective reasoning. A subjective recommendation (no numbers) indicates that it is best ignored. Honest and informed recommendations also provide numbers. A responsible recommendation called for an electrician as soon as possible to fix 'lower than normal' voltage. In most cases, that defect will not threaten human life. In rare cases, it does; should not be ignored....See More2 Stage Communicating AC System
Comments (21)Ok, I did some lengthy searching and looking on this comfort bridge stuff. From what I have found thus far it is a complete 180 from the 'communicating system' that is controlled via the comfort net stat. If you have the comfort bridge furnace, I don't think the comfort net stat will work with it from what I can see thus far. The document I found is so new, the ink has barely had a chance to dry. If you understand manufacturer cycles and how long it takes to get products from development to actually in someone's home... well Goodman was never known for that. So this is likely a 'Daikin' parent company type change / stunt whatever you want to call it. To say this properly.... you can have a communicating system using normal simple R, Y, G, W, and possibly C for thermostat control (IF AND ONLY IF) you have the comfort bridge furnace. So in this way, the thermostat wires are normal legacy type wires or 24v analog signal. What they've done is made changes to the system board and moved the communicating function to that board and off the previously mentioned thermostat. Now here's where things get dicey and complicated: In addition to needing the comfort bridge furnace it has to be wired 'correctly'. What does that mean exactly? you have to know what you are doing. Because this comfort bridge furnace has the ability to control a 'non-communicating' legacy AC as well as the communicating version. All of this depends on 'how the system is wired'. If you don't know what you are doing the potential to get wires crossed is high. Mixing DC signal wires with AC voltage wires --- well you're going to tear something up if you do that. The GSXC16 is a communicating 2 speed condenser. However, it also has the ability to be wired with legacy 2 stage controls. In other words if the communicating furnace or comfort bridge furnace is not present it can be wired with legacy controls. BUT if this condenser is wired with legacy controls you will need stage 1, stage 2 and probably 24v hot and common wires. If this condenser is wired as communicating it only needs 2 communication wires from the comfort bridge furnace or the previously mentioned communicating furnace of yesteryear. So if you've managed to understand all that thus far... if the system is 'WIRED' as communicating AND this is indeed attached to a comfort bridge furnace you will not get this to work by running new 2 stage wires for heating or 2 stage wires for cooling. The comfort bridge (if it's present in your furnace) handles the switching from 1st stage to 2nd stage via the communication aspect. (The signal is digital in this sense) THE KEYPOINT IN ALL OF THIS IS: IT DEPENDS ON HOW THE SYSTEM IS WIRED. I believe this change is primarily to allow someone to change the thermostat without causing damage to the systems control board. To many DIY's and OR low skilled installers that don't understand that mixing voltages don't mix. It's either that or it's a cost cutting move... but I suppose it could also be a combination of the two. I service the Katy, Texas area....See MoreAustin Air Companie
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agomike_home
2 years agoGreg
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoAustin Air Companie
2 years agomike_home
2 years agoHU-336800582
2 years ago
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