Thanks for the suggestions. The reason we are looking for one with no counter top is bc we are having to replace our kitchen countertops right now, and we had to buy 2 slabs. We have half a slab leftover. We had hoped to use the rest of the slab on this and a few other bathroom vanities that will need replacing in the future for the same reason. Since we paid for it, we love it, and it was expensive, we want to use it. I had thought about looking for a 12-inch storage unit, but wasn't even sure where to start. All of this came up rather suddenly and what I thought I had years to plan for is happening in the next two months. So I'm freaking out. A lot. There were 6 of us kids who shared one bathroom, and we made it too :). We really try to be realistic about how much is too much with our kids (though we lose sight and have to get back on track). We are also considering resale value in case we ever have to move, and planning for the fact that any of our parents could end up living with us. We are not chronic remodelers, so we want to get it as right as we can the first time. I'll check Ebay. I haven't looked there yet. Thanks.

My master bath re-do began with a double vanity / sink combo in the bedroom with a toilet and walk in shower in a separate room off to one side and a gigantic roman tub in a separate (but not closed off with a door) area to the other side. The vanity was one of those oak front particle board pieces of garbage with a cultured marble double sink and one of those gigantic mirrors overall. The walk in shower (which began the whole re-do) leaked underneath (inaccessible, of course) and into the kitchen below. So. Now I have a toilet and single wall sink with cart instead of vanity in the room where the toilet and walk in shower was. The roman tub (which was too big to be filled by our standard sized hot water heater) is replaced with a freestanding tub and shower combo (shower curtain all around) with easy-access plumbing (i.e. easy to spot leaks). In the center area that is part of the bedroom is just a freestanding mirror and a hanging plant under the skylight. Very minimal, clean, private. There is a little "ledge" under the free-standing floor mirror covering the plumbing that ran across the floor to the tub. This is reflected also by the ledge in the bathtub/shower area that was always there. It also prevents bashing into the unframed but beveled mirror with the vacuum cleaner. I know this is a lot to picture so I will try to come back with photos later. We are still doing some painting. It always seemed icky to me to have sinks in the bedroom and stupid to have a shower separate from the tub. Capping the lines from the double vanity and converting the shower plumbing to sink plumbing was fairly quick and easy (took a plumber less than an hour). I would suggest you hire a professional for the plumbing and do the rest of the job yourselves if you are wanting to go the diy route.

We would like to convert our old, single sink into a double. I understand I can use the same drain if it isn't over 30" but what needs to be done about the supply lines? Do we need to have a plumber change the pipes or can we do it another way outselves? Thanks so very much, If you are under the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) you may not combine two fixtures on the same waste arm. If you are under the IRC (International Residential Code) one center trap may serve up to 3 sinks, lavatories or laundry tubs of the same type, in the same room providing the maximum horizontal separation between any two fixtures measured from the center of the drain openings does not exceed 30" however the trap and fixture arm diameter MUST BE appropriately sized for the combined DFU (drainage fixture unit) load. A lavatory sink is rated at 1DFU therefore your proposed combined DFU load would be 2DFUs. The code standard drain opening size for a bathroom lavatory drain is 1-1/4" and the trap and fixture arm are supposed to be sized the same as the fixture tailpiece, which would also be 1-1/4" and rated for a maximum of 1DFU however, the bathroom lavatory is the only fixture in a residential structure that uses a 1-1/4" trap and fixture arm. The code will allow us to increase the size of the trap and/or fixture arm by one nominal trade size, which would then be 1-1/2". Rather than maintain a complete separate inventory of pipe and fittings for this limited use most plumbers now opt for the code exception and make the fixture arm 1-1/2". The code allows an 1-1/2" diameter horizontal waste line with a ¼" per foot pitch to convey a maximum of 3DFUÂs therefore if your existing fixture arm is 1-1/2" you will be able to connect both sinks to the common fixture arm. If the inside diameter of the existing pipe is 1-1/4" you may not combine both sinks on a common fixture arm. To make the physical connection you would need to use a 1-1/2"- "End Waste kit" or "Center waste kit" in the same manner as connecting a double kitchen sink. The lavatory drain tailpiece is 1-1/4" so you would need to use a 1-1/2"x 1-1/4" reducing ferrule on the inputs to the waste kit. The discharge from the end waste or center waste kit would then go into a 1-1/2" P-trap attached to the fixture arm. For the water supply lines we are in a gray area of the code. The code requires all fixtures except a tub or shower to have a valve at the fixture. One exception to this rule is when we are running a manifold system such as commonly used with PEX. On a manifold system we have individual lines from the manifold to the fixture so we may use the manifold shutoff valve as the fixture shutoff providing the manifold valves are all indelibly labeled to indicate which fixture they control. They make side outlet angle stop valves, which have the normal 3/8" outlet port on the top of the valve and a second 3/8" outlet port on the side. These types of valves are commonly used at the kitchen sink to connect dishwashers or ice maker lines. It would then be a judgment call by your inspector whether you could use a side outlet angle stop and run a line to each sink or whether you would need to install a tee on the water line and separate valves.

We are redoing our bathrooms and plan on putting double sinks in the 72 inch vanity (master bath) and a single sink in the 48 inch vanity (hall bath). I agree that you will want the counter space more than an extra sink. Even in our 72 inch vanity our contractor suggested we do not install rectangular sinks and use oval because of the extra couple of inches.