Building a New Home - Measurements not Matching up with Floor Plan
Brad S
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Mark Bischak, Architect
2 years agoRelated Discussions
building new home on lbi nj after sandy - plan help
Comments (8)Wait a sec - plans are plans. Local engineering will always need to be done. There is nothing particularly special about building on piers (we call them pilings in my area) and there is nothing special about wind protection. Now - that being said. A simple rectangle is best for the wind (actually a square is better and then an octagon is even better), and a hip roof is better. In NC, we get a 7% discount on wind insurance just by the hip roof design. So any plan can be made compliant with both elevation and wind but there are designs that are less than ideal. I really think you should have something like this designed from scratch. What is your elevation - I find it hard to imagine 5 feet is enough but I live in a more frequent storm area. I still think FEMA bows to political pressure in the NE and is way too lenient. We are at 14 feet above sea level and we built the bottom floor 10 feet above that. Our 100 year flood BFE (base flood elevation) is 14 feet. Yours was quite a bit lower but Sandy was 13 in a lot of areas so it would be foolish to not build to at least 13 feet. In my area (VE zone - which LBI should be), we pay more for flood if there is a structure (ie garage) on ground level. People do it all the time but the upcharge is as much as 50% - not much right now but federal flood is likely to be cut and premiums raised. The other flood trick is based on BFE - you get 25% discount for being 1 foot above BFE and it continues to a max of 66% for 3 feet above BFE. This is a FEMA rule so it should be the same for you. Do your research on this and build right. In our jurisdiction, we also get wind discounts for building to higher wind zone - so called fortified structures. No builders know this and very few people build to it but it is something to consider in such a high dollar area to build in. LBI=Long Beach Island. It is a barrier island off Long Island....See MoreNew Build, house plan - needs review - urgent.
Comments (11)I agree with the above posters: I'm not loving the angles. They're expensive to build and aren't a positive in terms of making the house comfortable to live in. The study is laid out in a nice spot. It'll provide privacy from the rest of the house so someone can read or work in quiet, especially if you're including a door. It isn't large, but it doesn't need to be large. I'd want a fireplace in the family room. The nook /only door to the back of the house looks good on paper . . . but in real life it's going to be uncomfortable to scootch around the table (especially if someone's seated or a chair hasn't been tucked under) to reach that door -- especially if you're carrying something like a plate of food destined for the grill. I'd angle the table the other direction or move the back door to the left or the right. Personally, I'd put a sliding glass door on BOTH the left AND the right, and I'd make that center space that's now a nook into a fantastic window seat; and that would leave the table to turn and use the ample space to the right. What is the empty space to the right of the table? I'm guessing it's a seating area, but that doesn't look functional. Since it's open to the nook and the family room, it's essentially still the family room . . . interrupted by the kitchen table. I do not like the kitchen cabinet layout. So many people gravitate to this type "I want to cram in as many cabinets as humanly possible" plan, but the reality is that it's cramped. Open the refrigerator door, and you're trapped in the "U" -- ditto for the pantry door. Cabinets are one of the most expensive line items in your entire build, and you can have too many. You also need some empty space in which to walk, and you want to avoid corners (and that angle is just a variation of a corner). I'd go with a simple L+island, and then make the current utility room into a large pantry. You could then have the garage entry to the kitchen THROUGH the pantry, which means you'd drop your groceries before ever entering the kitchen. The pantry is by far the cheapest /most efficient storage you can have, which lessens your expensive cabinet bill AND increases your storage. And you won't be short on counterspace at all. In your current plan, how are you entering the house from the garage? I don't see a door. Upstairs Your landing at the top of the stairs appears to be very small. I can't see how you'll move large furniture (like beds) through that small space. Why a second family room upstairs? You already have a separate study downstairs. The two bedrooms that share a bath look good . . . though the walk-in closet for the middle bedroom needs an outswing door. As it is, the door is preventing you from placing a clothes rod on the LONG wall of the closet. The width of the closet doesn't permit rods on both sides, so you're using the square footage of a walk-in and are only getting the storage of a reach-in. I personally would like to see the kids' closets all go larger. The first two kids' bedrooms are generous in size, but a large closet keeps a kid's room clean. I'd give up floor space to increase these closets, and place dressers IN the closets. I agree with the above poster that the two sinks are unnecessary in that shared bath. What that bath needs is storage space -- right now it has none, not even space for a hamper. And as your kids become teens, they're going to want more space for . . . well, lots of things. The third kid's bedroom is oddly shaped and at 8'-something on the short end, not really big enough to function well. Note that the outswing bathroom door is eating into the narrowest portion of this bedroom. I don't think an adult could sit on the toilet in this third bedroom; his or her knees wouldn't fit. And since this closet sort of "pokes out" into the bedroom, about half the storage space is far from the door /difficult to access. This whole third bedroom/bathroom configuration just doesn't work. I'd consider removing this bathroom altogether, which would allow the third bedroom to be on par with the other two -- nice, comfortable sized rooms. You could then place a good reach-in closet between this bedroom and the master, providing some acoustical privacy for both rooms. And let the three kids share the hall bath; three can share one bathroom without a problem (especially if you get them a bit of storage space in that bathroom). On the subject of bathrooms, your plumbing is strung across the whole upstairs, which is a very expensive proposition. If you could consolidate it, you'd save money. On the subject of consolidation, if you move the laundry sink so that it's in line with the washer /dryer, you'll save money by not having to run water in that wall. How will you vent the dryer? I'd make the closet in the laundry room closet into open shelving. More functional /removes the issue of the doors knocking against one another. The master bath has a massive amount of floorspace yet it doesn't seem to serve much purpose -- just empty space. This is a negative for two reasons: Tile is expensive, and a large bathroom can be cold. The bathroom door and the master closet door are going to cause a problem. Imagine putting away your clean laundry: You have a big basket in your hands, you have to go through the bathroom door, close it behind you, and open the closet door. I think you can do a lot better in this whole bathroom /closet layout. I'd consider a small hallway in the spot where you now enter the master bath . . . on one side, the closet door . . . on the other side, the bathroom door. You still have the function of the bathroom and closet being adjacent, but you can enter the closet without going through the bathroom, and you eliminate the problem of the doors. The shower can easily scoot over to where the toilet is now jammed into a dark, claustrophobic closet, and you have ample space to bring the toilet out....See MoreFirst time home build - would appreciate review of our floor plan
Comments (22)Does anything stand out as unusual or impractical? It's almost double the size of an average American house. Your main floor has a large family space plus an away space ... why the whole basement as well? It'll be at least a decade -- and probably another house -- 'til the kids want to be separated from you. One thing we're wrestling with with is our kitchen island size I think you're falling victim to "this is what nice houses have" syndrome. Why do you need a breakfast table (not a nook -- nooks are tucked away spaces) PLUS a large island with seating ... located literally within arm's reach of one another? And I'd venture to guess another outdoor table only steps away. How many eating spaces do you actually need? I'd say choose one or the other ... if you go with the island, enlarge it a bit /make it really nice, not stools lined up so no one can talk comfortably ... if you go with the table, shorten the island to allow for circulation (and don't neglect the space you'll need when chairs are pulled out ... this table is in the center of your floorplan, making it a major thoroughfare. Our breakfast table is 3 1/2' round -- definitely go with a round table in this area -- and it's ideal for 4-5 people. We never put food on the table; rather, we serve plates from the stovetop for casual weekday meals. Don't forget that you want to be able to reach the back door. Currently it sits 6' from the stove so we can move it over at least a foot to 5' away 6' between the stove and island seems to be too much. 4' would be better. Another question is whether the master shower at 5' x 6' is just strangely large. Yes. In my opinion (and I spent several years measuring friends' showers and hotel showers to develop this opinion), showers shouldn't be more than 3 1/2' - 4' wide. Why? Because once you pass that width, you're kind of out in the middle of a too-big space, which feels uncomfortably exposed. If you one day need grab bars, the walls'll be too far apart for them to be reachable. However, this is an easy fix. Just reduce the size of the shower and center the tub on the open wall. Overall, I think a lot of your things are over-optimized. This may not be just as bad as under-sized, but it's a problem. You don't want over-sized ... you want right-sized. Have you measured friends' houses, etc. to see what sizes you actually prefer? The laundry room is on the second floor adjacent to the master bedroom. I'd bump the machines to the left /make it easier to vent the dryer. I personally would leave the laundry room door open most of the time, so I think this is a good spot for a pocket door. I'd also double the window in the laundry room so it would allow more light into the hallway. If you're going with modern front-loader machines, which are pretty deep, this laundry room isn't any too wide. Someone commented on the double doors to the mbr, are there issues with double doors? They seem to be common on mid to higher end houses around here. Again "this is what nice houses have" syndrome. Things that are common aren't necessarily desirable. Double doors require two hands to open ... and the light switches must be placed either behind the door or too far from the door for comfort. And what's the gain? Nothing. Well, if you're working with a small space, you might want your doors to "park" in a smaller area, but that doesn't seem to be a problem ere. In fact, I'd consider a 17' long master. What are you going to do with the space at the foot of the bed? Nothing. It's just empty space. Imagine you put a TV on the wall ... it's 17' away ... too far for easy vision, and you have to turn up the volume. Do pocket doors wear over time? We would prefer to keep them closed so the mud room to kitchen area would be closed most of the time. Yes, they do wear out, and they're harder for little fingers to open. I personally would go with a pocket door here anyway ... because I'd keep the door open most of the time. An alternative: A swinging door. Other thoughts: - I understand that you like to cook (and you will again once the kids are a bit older), but a larger kitchen is in no way a better kitchen. This much cabinetry is going to cost a fortune, and much of it is likely to end up as clutter-space. - Is that a pantry in the middle of the house? Again, this would be a good place for a pocket door. Note that your standard hinged door covers up a big portion of your shelves, meaning you'd have to go into the pantry /close the door to access these items. OR, this might be a place for double doors on swing hinges (swing hinged doors don't require hands to open). - The dining room isn't exactly close to the kitchen -- it's not absolutely ridiculously far, but neither is is conveniently placed. Consider the steps that'll be necessary to transport food, plates, drinks to the dining room. The butler's pantry half-way between is a good place for a buffet set-up ... be sure to include a few outlets there so you can run a crock pot in this area. - Is that empty room across from the stairs a half-bath? If not, it should be! You absolutely need a bathroom on your main living level. - Upstairs you're over-bathed (plus another full bath in the basement and what I think is a half bath on the main floor). You'll run yourself ragged keeping these bathrooms clean /keeping toiletries and toilet paper in them each. And only one of the upstairs baths (the one that shares a wall with the laundry room) looks to be adequately sized /comfortable. The others have minimal sink space, meaning no storage for the kids as they grow older. I'd go with ONE nice-sized bathroom open to the hallway. So much less money, so much less work....See MoreFloor Plan Design Dilemma for New Build (Need Architect Advice)
Comments (158)In Ontario any homeowner can submit their own drawings, however, they will be reviewed by the planning department to ensure the drawings meet code. However, a professional I,e, draftsman, designer, architectural technologist etc must complete and pass exams and thus obtain a (Building code identification no) BCIN. An architect does not require a BCIN, however, they must be licensed in the province in order to have construction drawings approved. Some further explanations http://www.andythomson.ca/2016/11/15/why-a-bcin-is-not-an-architect/...See Morechispa
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Mark Bischak, Architect