Peppers and tomatoes are frost intolerant. As in, it freezes, they die. They won't produce well indoors, as they really like heat, but they are formally perennials, so they can kick back up into action the following summer. Not completely clear that overwintered plants will outperform new plants though, but if you have a short growing season, doing second-year plants in containers might be smart. One important point is that in the spring, soil temperatures in a container will be far higher than in the ground, which will speed things up.

Is it worth it?.....I'd tend to say no. But you seem to be set up for some indoor gardening, if so, I'd just try to keep just one pepper plant and one cherry tomato plant going.

Generally, not worth it with tomatoes.

Out of the ones you listed I had early girl and super sweet 100 this year. Geographically I'm not too far from you, and what I tend to notice is around this time due to the cold and wet weather ALL of them have some disease issues going on, including powdery mildew, leaf spots, etc,...and the risk of pests that could spread to your plants (one of my other tomatoes - midnight snack -was covered in aphids when I pulled it out last week since it was the last in the garden with new growth which the bugs had moved to.

One of the years, I did bring the tomatoes inside, despite the dry indoor air, the plants actually got worse, since they were already stressed with disease-issues going on in the fall. And any new growth was weak and not very healthy, and even with your grow lights, you likely aren't going to get much fruiting, but struggle with rehabilitating the stressed/sick plants.

If you've got the heat and the lights, you'll have a healthier plant if you start them from seed 8 weeks before your last frost. Depending on your set-up... you could try starting your tomatoes even earlier such as 10-12 weeks, which may get you earlier flowering/fruit production once they are moved to the garden.

I am a tomato lover and hate it when the season ends. Last year, I grew micro tomatoes under lights and I didn't get a fantastic harvest, although it could be because I don't use big enough containers. I really think one gallon is the minimum for most of the micro varieties.

Regarding bringing in the varieties that you mentioned. I wouldn't because they are all indeterminates that get so big. However, if you have the room for a larger plant or two, I would grow a compact variety that does ok in a big container yet doesn't get taller than 3 feet. (I use 3-gallon pots when I grow them on my deck) and would recommend Maglia Rosa, Russian Cherry and Pipo. House is another where they recommend growing it inside over the winter and then popping it outside for the summer.

They might survive but not give much winter fruit/veggies. If you want them for next summer, then probably. But it doesn't make sense finanacially; buy new next spring.

Well, I don't think tomatoes that get big are a handicap for indoor survival. If they get too big, just hack 'em off. The plants will do fine and resprout. Quite true that any disease-stressed plants are certainly not worth keeping. Now, large plants need large grow lights, so just taking lights intended for seedlings and pulling them up a few feet won't work at all.

If I understand, you brought in one pepper plant last winter and had success this summer it's second year? You are not trying to grow indoor food. What did you do with the pepper last year? Trim it back hard? Or let it be?

The biggest drawback is bringing in diseases and pests. You probably could keep a tomato plant alive, but probably better to start with a fresh plant in Spring. If you have room, experiment if you want. Hot peppers are probably more worth the effort, bring in your favorites.