Help! Designing a large backyard, any tips would be appreciated!!
Y H
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agoY H
2 years agoRelated Discussions
First Post! Re-Grading backyard and would appreciate some commen
Comments (45)For reference my directions are as viewed from the street looking at your house. The first pic, that's neighbor on L? The scar on R of fence is where your shed used to be? R half of 2nd pic is neighbor straight back...L half pic your yard (aiming toward neighbor with shed)? The third pic I know what is but I cannot differentiate levels. Sorry. Looks like that lot high, too? The neighbor directly straight back (w/2 large trees) looks like he's been high forever as if subd. created that way. The neighbor on you L side looks like his fill might be much newer. His grass has a new-ish look. (would have liked to seen a pic aiming further left...I'm trying to see where the drain path goes.) Aside from the water, he's dumping on you, where's the rest of his water draining? To his front? And the guy next to him (past power pole) where's his water going (other than what he's putting on you)? If the bulk of their water is going to the front...which you might be able to tell from standing in front of their houses, I'd guess one or both of them has blocked your natural flow. Which says that going to a lawyer for a consultation to discover your rights and make a plan is the place to start. Someone pointed out, what will you do with major rain like hurricane Irene type rain...or the hundred year flood? Your original plan will put you in jeopardy if such were to happen. Actually, with your drainage blocked, you're probably already in jeopardy. just won't be able to see it until that monster rain happens. I'm not trying to be an alarmist, but I think it's important to know where you stand legally...especially, if you can get the cause of your problems to pay for the solution. I would try to find out every last fact about where that water is draining...how it's draining for these neighbors...get out their during the next heavy rain. Take pictures. Make yourself knowledgeable about exactly how all these pieces of the the puzzle fit together...before going to lawyer. You don't want to go with just a few words and a complaint...to which he says, "we'll need to study your issues. That'll be $500 for our next hours worth of work." Go as prepared as you can be....See MoreDesign suggestions would be appreciated.
Comments (17)I meant to say that the third picture was from the fence, facing North, I'm not sure why I said East. I don't really have a drainage problem, I have a problem with the water not soaking into the soil. The current water is coming from the sprinkler head near the whiskey barrel. The water isn't washing the grass away, it just simply isn't sinking in due to the clay soil. Coupled with the all day sun, the grass is doing terrible. As the slope levels out a little towards the middle, the water is able to soak in better. I agree that the drainage is a good thing, as most of the heavy rain runoff will go from the NorthWest portion of my lawn, down to the South next to the fence. Trying to get the grass to grow well is difficult, so I figured I'd just get rid of it. The area probably won't be used for much of anything other than a place to look nice and remove grass. I am also contemplating adding steps to the deck next to the roses, and maybe making a little sitting area. However, I don't anticipate using it very often, what with the giant deck and all. I'm new to gardening and keeping plants alive, but don't mind the weeding/pruning/watering aspect, although I don't have enough time to spend hours each day on it. Learning how to maintain every other aspect of a house is rather time consuming. I imagine I would be an informal gardener, to the poster who asked. The heartier the plants, the better. Perennials would probably be the best idea, especially since the previous owner placed a lot of them in the front yard. Dwarf evergreens sound like an acceptable choice. If they stay small, I doubt they would bring up any horrible memories. I do need a walkway through there, at least large enough for the lawn mower and wheelbarrow to get through. My concern with the snowball bush, is it's getting rather large, and I'd rather not have it much larger than the shed it's hiding. I've been reading up on that, so I don't think it will be too much of an issue. I also think once I move the shed back towards the fence, it will leave a strange open spot. The flowering vines are a good idea. Making the two beds was one of the ideas I had come up with as well. I was concerned with the one next to the fence, since that is where any drainage would be. I wasn't sure if it would be a good idea to simply place any sort of dirt or mulch there with plants located throughout. I contemplated putting in raised beds, but the drainage issue comes into play again. Building it up with rocks, and having a type of rock garden next to the fence crossed my mind. And, once it has been decided what to plant, I was wondering with how to edge it up to my lawn. Having grass and then a hard border into the plant/walkway area seemed abrupt. Maybe having a flagstone type walkway through the planting area, and "breaking up" once it meets the lawn portion of my backyard. The ideas thus far are helpful. I'm very open to any others. While bizarrely over the top, the first poster did give me an idea or two. Thanks for the help!...See MorePlease help me grill. Tips and All Recipes appreciated!
Comments (34)Well, you all have me convinced! I'm ordering one today or tomorrow, along with a grill temperature probe, which I needed anyway. I watched a few YouTube's last night on the Instant Pot and was pretty surprised at what it can do. I'm going to get the Ultra, as it seems to have a few more features for now and later - it does have a 'faux' sous vide setting, which I'm sure is inaccurate, but will suffice for now should I attempt it. I'll get the Anova after reno if I still want it. Hard boiled and poached eggs, fast and easy rice, pasta, proteins, steamed veggies, stock and bone broth, and I can make soups! Soups!!!! So glad this was brought up and I was encouraged to get one. I'll most likely order a pressure cooker cookbook as well. Annie, I will look for Instant Pot recipes too! Snowed yesterday, rain and cold temps for the next week, so clearly grilling is not something I can do always. However, I think I'll start small - I've got chili in the fridge, so next non-rainy day, cornbread in the grill : ) I think, with the grill, the electric skillet (which is quite large), the Instant Pot, microwave, and my sad toaster oven, I should be set. I've so few cooking utensils now, and very little space, it's all I can really use! The induction burner looked great, but I'd have to find and unpack my pans and order skillets - but I'm quickly running out of storage containers and I'm finding they aren't ideal for storage/cooking - nothing is, but I'll manage : ) I know one thing: After we're done with the reno, it'll feel like we're living like Kings! LOL! During the reno, I won't be limited in meals as I thought I might be. Again, and again, I'm so grateful to everyone here at the GW Cooking community!...See MoreBrowning lawn. Any help would be appreciated!
Comments (20)In this particular instance, I agree. Don't use Milorganite and, when trying to overgrow rust in June, don't use a slower organic. Go with a synthetic, even this late, just use it at half the normal rate. Without knowing what the soil balance of Durwin Tsay's soil is, I'd normally hesitate to add other resources. However, potassium is harmless enough that a little extra doesn't bother me and I'm not troubled by kicking a little extra in. In this case, a fertilizer around 25-0-5 would be just fine, at half the normal rate, to overgrow the rust. Feed that small area every 3 weeks or so--a total break of the rules but, in this case, called for. If that fails, then by all means, use any general fungicide like DiseaseEx. Rust is not a strong or durable fungus and should go down at the first blow. We avoid using fungicides because we don't want it to become resistant. (Milo actually does contain potassium, but it comes in at just under one percent and has to be listed as zero on the bag for that reason. Corn, sold as fertilizer, has to be listed as 1-0-0 even though most of us report it more accurately as 1.6 - 0.6 - 0.4 due to the poundage used. Horse manure is technically 0-0-0, but in reality, 0.44 - 0.17 - 0.35)....See MoreElaine Doremus Resumes Written
2 years ago
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