The kitchen looks okay but I'd lose the desk area. It's crowding the eat-in space and most kitchen desks become dumping grounds. The prep sink is too close to the main sink to really provide much additional use. If you want one I'd move it to the end of the island by the fridge. Make sure you actually like bench seating. It can often be a pain to slide in and out of those little nooks. The laundry room is hard to say since I don't see the W/D marked on the plans. It seems a little oversized unless you plan on including storage. The powder room is a little far to be convient. The big issue is the dining room. It's sooo far from the kitchen and requires a very long and out of the way path.

Well....that depends on the SUBFLOOR prep required (are you talking about in the kitchen?) and the TYPE of installation you are willing to pay for. Again, concrete must be flat/even (prefer level but don't always need it) and free of any contaminants. The preparation is the key. Did I mention the preparation? Right. That's the fist step that people want to go cheap on because no one can see the results. Yet it is the FIRST thing we, flooring professionals, POINT TO if the homeowner is upset about how a floor PERFORMS (ie. feels underfoot or is ruined by moisture coming up through the slab, etc). *Technically a wood floor can be FLOATED over the old tile in the kitchen BUT it requires flat substrate = work. Work = Time. Time = money. Carpets HIDE some wonky concrete. That's why they were used. The builders HID their AWFUL concrete underneath flexible products like sheet/glue down vinyl OR carpet. The only way to get an ACCURATE quote is to rip up the carpet and have a wood flooring professional come out and offer their quote. Even then, they will be offering a PRICE RANGE for the concrete preparation. A floating wood floor normally requires engineered wood (you can get expensive solid hardwoods that are allowed to be floated...but they are hard to find). Engineered hardwoods tend to be more expensive to purchase. A floating floor is a 'mid-price' range install. The cheapest install for wood is nail/cleat/staple down but that isn't an option because you are on concrete. A floating hardwood is the next in price (takes a bit more time and requires the use of adhesive on the edges). The MOST EXPENSIVE wood install is a GLUE DOWN OVER OLD CONCRETE. The adhesives themselves (and this is NOT included in the subfloor preparation) can range between $2-$4/sf. That's because they are used as 100% moisture barrier. These are EXPENSIVE adhesives. They can be $300 for 5 gallons and a gallon offers 30sf of floor coverage (it needs to be laid THICK to create the 100% moisture barrier). The glue down method requires a VERY knowledgeable wood flooring expert who UNDERSTANDS the adhesive, the trowel sizes, the spread rates, the 'tack up' time, etc etc etc. The adhesive can still be mucked up (and you can still have issues with moisture intrusion) by the INSTALLER if s/he doesn't get it right! And THAT'S when the REAL problems begin. A tile floor can be very expensive. A wood floor can be equally expensive. It all depends on the work needed to be done BEFORE the floors are installed. And the value you pay for in a high-quality craftsman is where you find the most money will be spent. Human sweat has a price. TALENTED sweat can be double that price.

@loobab: The hood system is supposed to capture and contain. To capture it has to overlap rising and expanding cooking plumes. While these can be somewhat constrained by the wall behind, and cabinets on the sides, it is best to aim for overlap all around. This requires that the contour of all possible pans and pots grow with height above the cooktop at the plume expansion angle. We might use 10 degrees from vertical for this angle. Hence the same capture efficiency at height2 greater than height1 will require a larger hood. Where cross drafts are common, an even larger capture area may be required. As an approximation to all this, for hoods not higher than 36 inches, overlapping the range (not the pans) by 3 inches all around is deemed reasonable. It is, however, up to the customer to determine his or her best trade among performance, cost, and aesthetics. 'Good enough' is also a personal choice.

Looks wonderful! The range hood is a piece of art.