That might be true, on the vibration. This engine is 24 years old lol; it's still running strong when I can keep everything firmly connected. I HAVE had issues with the engine mount bolts coming loose and have to tighten them up regularly. Discovered when we inherited the tractor from hubby's grandma that the engine was being held to the frame with only three of four bolts, and those just regular bolts, not the OEM engine bolts, if it makes any difference. Got four OEM B&S engine bolts on eBay, and the lock washer that was supposed to go on one of them, but that one somehow came loose and fell out someplace. So back to a regular bolt in that hole. But I periodically tighten those bolts because they do seem to work loose; there is definitely some vibration going on but don't know if it's related to the PTO or not. No problems engaging or disengaging; no unusual vibration. So probably a good case for the carb bolts working loose; once they loosened (before I discovered the problem with them and the engine mount bolts) maybe they started wearing on the bolt hole threads??? Anyway, back to current problem. The bottom screw on the carb mount still can be tightened I think, but the muffler shield on top of the muffler directly below the carb is in the way making it REALLY difficult to access or pull the bolt; you can barely work a screwdriver in there to turn it and you have to bend the back edge of the shield down to do that. I think I need to use Locktite on both bolts though. I tried re-doing the Locktite on the top bolt and tightening the bottom one, and it held for all of about 5-10 minutes of running. After that I ended up bungee-cording the air cleaner to the engine to hold it against the engine block just to finish mowing, but by the time I was done both bolts were loose again. The carb mounts to the left side of the engine, btw. I can link you to a diagram if you like. (see below) I used the same tube of locktite I had from three years ago (still pretty liquid) but maybe it was no good? It was the removable type of Locktite and I am wondering if I should try something with a little more hold? Would JB Weld be better? I noticed it did grip the bolt in the hole better once it began to set but was afraid to tighten it down too much; just turned it till it felt like it was catching a bit and then let it set. Otherwise the bolt would just spin in the hole. I have gotten some more OEM bolts to try new ones but they are shorter than the bolt I used last; last time I just used an ordinary bolt that was a little longer than the original, and it did the trick, but this time I used the same longer bolt and it let go, after applying Locktite, tightening as best I could, and letting it cure 24 hrs before running. Should I replace the carb mount gasket again too? Seems to be ok but I haven't pulled it; I replaced it last go-around. The mower starts and runs just fine if I can just keep the darn carb on the engine! Here is the link showing the carb and air cleaner assembly for my B&S engine, no. 280707-0411-02. If you look at the carb bottom left, you can see the attachment point (intake??) you can also see the bracket I was referring to (no. 662 in the chart). Just a strip of metal that attaches to the little box with the choke linkage on it. Doesn't really support the carb-to-engine connection; the whole unit including aircleaner and bracket moves, I think. It's screwed down pretty tightly regardless. Carb and aircleaner assembly B & S 280707-0411-02 Thanks for any suggestions or advice!

I've seen star bolts at flea markets and antique stores. A good architectural antique store or salvage place would have them (in Philly there's a place called Restore). I spent last weekend removing plaster from a chimney, cleaning / scraping bricks with a wire brush, and then spraying them with a masonry sealer (Manowar makes a good one, so does Behr, in both Wet-look and low-lustre). 1 or 2 coats will give them a coating so they aren't crumbling and dusty. I would mix some mortar and fill the hole with old bricks. If this chimney is a chase for gases from your heater, it is important that the hole is filled . sealed and not just covered up with something decorative. -cheers

ekoreilly, Your existing 4x4 posts are probably carriage bolted throught the deck framing below the flooring. If thats the case they are probably very strong and I'd sleeve them with 1 x 6 cedar attached with construction adhesive and on the top shim them level. Cap them. After that you can use any type of rail you want. The link showint a way to mount new posts I think is poor. If you'd like to email me to discuss further, please feel free to do so. All the best, The Porchguy Here is a link that might be useful: My Album

I'd use something like 1/4" lag bolts, with of course the holes for the lag shields drilled after the concrete sets up. (I say 'something like' because there are variations of the same basic idea on the market.) Automobile touch-up paint can be used to get a close color match.