Don't know if you will have pull out shelves in any of your cab that you could leave a countertop model on and have an outlet installed at the rear wall of the cab. You would keep counters clear, spend less for a countertop model and it would be out of sight. I didn't want to part with any more loss of cabinet space and didn't have room on the counters so i bought a rolling cart, which i also used during reno, and have my old OTR Advantium 120 microwave on it. Better planning would have been to find a niche for it on one of my pantry pull out shelves with the outlet behind, but I can live with what i have for now. Although weight may have been an issue for such a large bulky unit. I do like the Advantium and use it but not as frequently as some posters here. I doubt if i will replace it when it no longer works, but who knows? But if we weren't new empty nesters and had a house full of kids it would be a different story. So often depends on multiple considerations of your situation. Good Luck,

MarinaGal - thanks for weighing in. On an earlier thread, several others have suggested the same. Here's how that would look. My quandry is the overhead lighting. My gut feel is that the single depth units are 'cleaner' looking. I'm trying for a little sleight of hand here - widen room and minimize height. I fear I have too much going on already. Goal is for the built-ins to blend in, no starring role, definitely not another clown! That said, I'm definitely listening! mtnrdredux - I forgot to add that I take your point about the adjustable shelving (and think I will go this route). In the picture, you can see the unit on the right has 2" rails separating the shelving. Upper shelf heights, from top, are: 12, 12, 14, 18, which I think looks good.

I guess I am misunderstanding the OP's question here and thus I don't understand the contention or the advice. If the ceiling joists run parallel to the wall, it is incredibly unlikely to be load bearing. I mean I have opened up many old houses and seen every ridiculous thing that can be done to a 150 year old house and I have never even almost seen a load bearing wall running parallel to the joists without a sunken beam. If there isn't something connecting and supporting the joists above it, it isn't going to be load bearing. I wouldn't dream of removing the wall without opening up 6" on either side to get a good look above the beam, so unless you have a view from above, I suggest you do that. You are going to have to open up the ceiling to the joists anyway, so that is 16" on each side for drywall anyway, so might as well open them up. You can still remove the wall if it is load bearing, it is just going to cost you a little bit more money. I had to sink a beam in a 6' bathroom with a wall that I knew was load bearing. With such a short span you definitely don't need a tall beam and the lumber yard will have someone they order beams from with an engineer on staff who can design it for free (well at least for no upcharge). As for baths needing larger headers. Why? Nothing in a typical bathroom is particularly heavy. A full tub will still weigh less and have a larger footprint than a full filing cabinet, bookshelf, and possibly a clothing bureau. Running a quick calculation based on the average weight of a book and the approximate number of books on my office shelves. I have about 1450 lbs in 10 square feet of footprint. A full 80 gallon tub is 660 lbs in 13 square feet. I am not saying you are wrong, just wondering why.

Super Lumen - I'm aware that the anchors will not manage a point load of 265#. From what I've seen, shear-through begins around 200#. And no, that's not a scientific guarantee. Here is an informative video for those that want to learn more about drywall anchor options https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHb-Tcvkn7M We're talking about 12 each plates, bowls, and glasses. Not heavy heavy ceramic. Along with some small decorations, tea tins, olive oil, lighter foodstuffs, etc. All of it spread out as evenly as possible. I estimate the total weight will be (at the very high end of the range) around 175# max which includes the shelving, rails, and brackets. Spread out over 4 rails, with the top mounting points into blocking (and probably the centers too) and the bottoms using the anchors, I don't see a disaster here like some of you predict.