I'm in central Florida. I now have two big worm bins and they seem to survive both summer and winter. Make sure absolutely no sun hits your bin directly!!!!!! That would heat it up far more than you might think and in turn dry it out much faster. My bins are built from plywood and 2 x 4s. The tops are simply screen or hardware cloth to allow air. I think having legs on the bin is important so you can place the feet in containers of mineral oil to keep ants from climbing up into the bin. My bins are in an old dog kennel that we have wrapped in shade cloth and tarps to keep the sun out and the bins shaded. During the Hottest part of summer you need to check the moisture content of the bin more often but you still don't want to make it so wet that the bottom of the bin gets anaerobic and smelly. I find that the top couple inches of bedding in my bins is usually quite dry but most of the bin is still moist enough. Last summer we went away for a few weeks and when we got back the bins were a bit too dry but our worm population has bounced back even so and I've already harvested about 5 bucket fulls of castings and probably have another 5 to go. Our first summer with the worm bin I would take frozen jugs of water and place them in the worm bin to help cool things but now I don't think that is really needed unless the bin were getting some direct sun light or if we were having another summer like 1998 when it was 104 in the shade during May and the state burned. Where ever you place the bin, keep in mind that harvesting worm castings can be a messy procedure (I would avoid placing the bin where there is carpet.) And what type of bin you use, if there are ants around, you want the bin on a stand or to have legs you can place in containers of liquid to keep the ants from climbing in. Also make sure there are no other paths into the bin (don't let it touch the wall or leave anything leaning against it or let plants touch it.) It really sucks to stick your hand into the worm castings only to be bitten up by fire ants!!!! And materials, I like wood bins cause they breath a bit better than plastic so moisture and temperature are a bit easier to control. Only major change I'm planning for my bins is the replace the screen covers with some cage wire or hardware cloth as some critter has chewed through the screen. In summer my bins get lots of Black Soldier fly larva in them which I actually like since my fish and chickens love eating those far more than eating the worms. Here is a link that might be useful: TCLynx

I've got a F&P single door bottom freezer fridge. Mine is in a 36" cabinet opening with cabinets on one side and a side panel on the other. The doors sit proud of the cabinet opening -- the fridge body is cabinet depth, the doors are in front -- and we have no trouble accessing the bins. Our model is the one with the freezer door with pullout shelves behind it, not the one where the whole freezer pulls out as one big drawer. I checked, and our freezer shelves can be pulled out with the freezer door opened 90 degrees. The fridge door, however, needs to be opened a bit farther to allow the produce bins to pull all the way out, because the door shelves get in the way if the door is at 90 degrees. You can open the bins and access the contents with the door at 90 degrees, but you can pull them out an extra inch or two if you open the door to more like 110-120 degrees. Just another note on organization. If you are getting one without a deli drawer, like ours, and decide you want a drawer, the Container Store regular size shoe drawers fit great inside this fridge. (Most fridge bins are too long front-to-back for a counter-depth fridge.) It took me a while to find something that would work, so I thought I'd share. The link is below. And just in case you're getting the same model with the freezer door that we have, the bottom "shelf" is a deep bin. I had the hardest time finding something to organize that thing, but it turned out that IKEA Kusiner boxes (in children's storage) fit perfectly, 3 in a row side by side: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20163265 (Sorry, I've tried about 10 ways to make that a clickable link but none of the codes I've tried work on this forum, and I can't find the instructions quickly.) Here is a link that might be useful: Container Store clear shoe drawer

To Answer Mr_HAVAC's question Problem: The A/C quits cooling when the temps reach approx 90 degrees. The fan keeps blowing air, but it is warm air. I have been without A/C for a year except for a room A/C. Right now it is 105 and it was up like 116 last summer. Repair History: May 2006 - Condenser fan replaced because it had been installed backwards. July 2006 - Relay Switch Replaced Sept 2006 - Condenser Replaced No more 90+ days occurred because it was Fall May 2007 - Relay Switch Replaced Again June 2007 - Assessment is compressor override kicked in at 90 degrees - need to replace unit. I have a 1350sqft 1 story home - I bought it before I lost my husband, I'm trying to keep it. I'd like it to be cool enough to live in (sigh) ------------------ As to the issue of 2x4 etc. I have been on the phone all day with: State Licensing Board State Insurance Commission County Blding Dept Warranty Company Besides reading docs and laws on the web. County said don't worry about the license, just get owner/builder permit. State says illegal to get owner/builder permit plus I would be libel for workmans comp, insurance claims etc. If anything goes wrong. I could indeed lose everything. I will not go owner/build permit. State Insurance Commission is sending me a complaint form in the mail. When I pointed out the isssue to the warranty co. they said they'd known for a week and dropped the A/C Co but since they were already working my issue they didn't catch it. A/C Company says they now have the insurance straightened out. Warranty Company says too bad. We must now start over with a new company and see what their assessment is. . . . So now I wait for the other Company to call me some time next week. And just how do I know who to trust and what is a fair price for the work etc. Thanks to eveyone who is trying to help.

Thank you so much for your replies. The plumber already came by and looked at it. The estimate is 1K. We are doing it. I guess a wife in a panic mode makes things move..... The refrigerator is spec'ed for Thermador Freedom 36 inch bottom freezer with fully integrated panel. I am already spending a fortune. It has 90 degree hinge per installation manual I read on line. By the time all is said and done, my guess is this will be a ten thousand $ refrigerator. Egad! Rococogirl, on the side, I think I am leaning toward a KWC Suprimo. I saw a mod Eucalyptus kitchen with the faucet in your blog and it looked great. Thanks for your blog. This is a very functional faucet, IMHO that is also nice looking. http://www.atticmag.com/2009/09/modern-eucalyptus-kitchen/ I wish I could have a window like that in my kitchen, but I can't. Maybe the next house. Alas.