Uneven Drawer - won't close properly

2 years ago

I have a drawer in my kitchen that has been a problem since we moved in and no one seems to be able to figure out how to fix it. It doesn't close straight - the left side always sticks out about a 1/4 inch. The drawer box has been rebuilt, the glides have been replaced and the thing will won't close evenly. In addition, it doesn't close fully (it's soft close). For a while it doesn't close all the way and over and over again it comes off the glides. I'm at a loss of what to do and don't know what part of it is causing the flaw. In addition to soft close glides, it has an electronic "push to open" mechanism by Blum.

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Comments (14)

PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
2 years ago
Something is racked.
ci_lantro
2 years ago
Side mount or under mount drawer slides?

Agree with Joseph^^^. Could be that the cab box is not square. Or both the old drawer box and new one are out of square.

Or the slides aren't installed properly. If the old screw holes were used to install the new slides and the slide placement was wrong to start with, then new hardware would just be a repeat of the old problem.
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Here is a little more information that might help clarify the purpose of the diode across the PTO coil (paraphrased from a Wikipedia article): The functional name given to the diode is a 'snubber'. Snubbers are frequently used in electrical systems with an inductive load (PTO coil) where the sudden interruption of current flow often leads to a sharp rise in voltage across the device creating the interruption (the PTO switch). This sharp rise in voltage is a transient and can damage and lead to failure of the controlling device (PTO switch). When the current flowing is DC, a simple rectifier diode is often employed as a snubber. The snubber diode is wired in parallel with an inductive load (such as the PTO coil). The diode is installed so that it does not conduct under normal conditions. When current to the inductive load (PTO coil) is rapidly interrupted (by the PTO switch), a large voltage spike would be produced in the reverse direction (as the inductor (PTO coil) attempts to keep current flowing in the circuit). This spike is known as an "inductive kick". Placing the snubber diode in inverse parallel with the inductive load (PTO coil) allows the current from the inductor to flow through the diode rather than through the switching element (PTO switch), dissipating the energy stored in the inductive load over the series resistance of the inductor (PTO coil) and the (usually much smaller) resistance of the diode. So, this inductive kick does not feed back into ground or into any other part of the engine such as the starter (as mownie correctly mentioned). The potentially damaging energy is dissipated in the series resistance of the diode and the PTO coil.
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I'm guessing that place in Santa Ana was Austin Hardwood? If so, I seriously doubt they were mis-packaged intentionally by Austin, but still hard to understand how K-Vs came out of Blum packaging? I buy all my glides and hinges there, one of the best selections in Orange County, and a reputable old time family business. As others have mentioned, to accommodate Blum bottom mount glides, drawer boxes must be ordered and made specifically with the proper recessed bottom. Your drawers have the 1/2" side clearance to accept side glides, and very unlikely have the bottom recess to enable the use of bottom mount glides no matter what mfg. FWIW, I've liked and used Accuride side mount glides for dozens of years with great results. Especially for extra heavy large drawers, pantry pull outs and file cabinets...
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Lindsey, you have undermount drawer slides. OP has side mount slides. Two whole different animals. SW Wong, did you check all the mounting screws in the slides to make sure that they are properly seated? If one is standing proud, that could be the problem. Check all of the screws, the ones that mount the slide to the cabinet and the ones that mount the slide to the drawer. I have some Accuride and KV side mount slides but no soft close versions. When I remove and replace a drawer, I have to get kinda' tough and force the drawer to close. For some reason, the slide has quite a bit of resistance to closing. After that first 'force to close' , the drawer functions fine. Again, I do not have the soft close versions. Also, check the slides for a manufacturer's label. If these are a generic, no-name slide, then the chances of just having a bad slide is probably higher than with a recognized brand. You may end up needing to replace the slide. Not a fun job but not all that difficult to do, either.
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Lynne
Original Author
2 years ago
They're undermount slides
Lynne
Original Author
2 years ago
Is there any solution to an out of square cabinet box? Also, what is the best way to check if the drawer and box are square?
HU-178658043
2 years ago
Remove the drawer and use a framing square to see if the slides in the cabinet are perpendicular to the face frame. Also see if the drawer face is perpendicular to the slides on the bottom.
PRO
GN Builders L.L.C
2 years ago
See what type of a slide you have they have front and rear slide adjustments. If not sure there are plenty of Youtube videos explaining how to do that for different slides.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
2 years ago
Doubtful it's the cabinet box or the other drawer would be out also. Play with the slides please.
doc5md
2 years ago
Measure from the face of the box to the front edge of the slides. I wonder if one side is set back further than the other.
strategery
2 years ago
Get a cabinet pro.
Lynne
Original Author
2 years ago
@strategery Cabinet pro hasn't been able to fix it.
doc5md
2 years ago
If the slides are the same to the front of the box, look at the mounting of the slides on the drawer box itself. If that is normal, consider that there could be something causing the drawer front to not be tight to the drawer box on the side that is sticking out (piece of debris, washers, etc.)
millworkman
2 years ago
"Cabinet pro hasn't been able to fix it."

Were these custom cabinets? Was the pro involved with the purchase? Have you asked the manufacturer as it sounds like it should be a warranty issue.
Honu3421
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Your Blum push to open should have these tabs at each side of the cabinet

see how that sticks out a bit? That is so you can ”push” to open. When you push the tab retracts, your trash holder hits a lever in the back of your cabinet and that lever pushes your trash holder open. Voila! Like magic! Your door should sit proud of adjacent cabs by 1/4”. Please check your tabs. It looks like you are missing the one on the right. and call your local rev-a-shelf dealer for help. They were very helpful to us when we purchased and installed ours. Good luck!

My cabinet:

Looks like more than 1/4”. However, I measured for accuracy.
Honu3421
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Our servo drive was a full set up that included glides. Did you install the entire system or just the servo drive motor? The installation is tricky. Does your glide system look like this?

Uneven Drawer - won't close properly

Comments (14)

Joseph Corlett, LLC

ci_lantro

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Uneven Drawer - won't close properly

Comments (14)

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