"Why are you replacing the sashes? What are your existing windows? A well maintained original wood window with a good storm gives the same or better thermal performance as a modern replacement. Well maintained is the key phrase." I have to agree w/Patser - I realize not everyone does - I just paid around $190/double hung window to have new parting strips, glazing replaced on many, re-balance (this guy was meticulous there) - entire window rehab. Here's a couple of issues: 1. Typically the best suited window for your home is the original - that is the "custom" one. 2. from an esthetic standpt - I rarely see an older home with new replacement windows and say "wow look at how those windows made a difference" - I think many people don't really take a look at their homes outside & in to determine the detail in old windows - They are sold strictly by the ease of use & energy efficiency - Not realizing the authentic divided lights has much more to offer. 3. Many of the "energy efficient" windows are not without flaws - like the seal breaking or the window being improperly installed (another issue, yes) 4. dh is a banker so he tried to look at it from an investment (we all do) - in any case he tried doing the math - we have 26 windows - so lets say that came to around 20K to do a decent replacement or sash unit (i.e.Marvin) - and you received a return of 5% a yr on energy savings - lets say heating season runs $4,500 that is a return of $225/yr - we don't have central air DH doesn't think he live long enough to recieve a return on his investment - even a 10% return My $.02

I know of one company that has an "insert" wooden window which will forgive the slight out of squareness of an old window. It is Semco which is a old line window company out of Wisconsin. You will pay as much for this "replacement" as you would a new window but it is far better than any typical "replacement window" Since it also comes with it's own frame, you do not have to mess with sizing screens to the outside frame. Normally with a sash pack (Semco has them too) you cover the outside wood with aluminum coil and measuring for screens is a pain. If the frames are good, not rotten, square and plumb, go for the sash pack. It is also possible to get sash packs that do not reduce the existing clear opening which could effect egress requirements. Even if your existing windows do not meet today's egress, you can replace them with like size but you cannot reduce from the current clear opening.

That's most likely a rebranded AMI (Alside) Preservations which is just a Pimped-Out Sheffield, stuffed with foam in the frame and sash with triple pane PPG Pro-Solar glass. It's an OK window but has a design flaw with it's snap in sill instead of an extruded one which is found on most better windows. Whether it's a good buy depends on the price. I would also ask what the entire window U factor is. The numbers they are quoting you are intentionally skewed to make the window seem more energy efficient than it really is.

You're going to need to look on the arms that push the window put. Get the brand name and the hardware model number from there as that is more important than the window mfr. Blaine Window Hardware would be about the only guys I know of that would be might be able to help one you have that info