@hallettco, it's been a long day.....totally forgot the OP said LVP in her first post between my first comment and second comment. I was looking at what appeared to be solid wood in the pic she posted. FWIW, my builder installed red oak treads after we had very light white oak flooring installed and he clear coated them. It's not off terribly but it's been a bone of contention between us. It's not horrible but he gave us a discount so I'm living with them for now :/

Thank you Eva. I did look at the installation information for my specific flooring and it did not reference anything specific to bathrooms. I’ve had a couple of people now tell me that I should just use caulk and another guy who installs floors recommended using a caulk backer rod. I have also seen a Schluter edge used in some of the photos and that looks really good so I may check with them and see what they recommend as well. The more we know the better we do it right. Thank you for your input I

Just finished laying Provenza LVP on our entire first floor, on a cement slab. Now moving to our second floor loft area. I’ve ripped up all of the carpet and we have 1” OSB subfloor. Have a couple issues I’m tryin to solve: - It’s a bit creaky and loud walking on just the subfloor. - Subfloor definitely needs some prep before laying. Sanding down some high spots, feather finish in some other areas. I do plan on adding some screws in between nails for the subfloor to hopefully help make things quieter and sturdy. Would it be a good idea to also staple some 5 mm wood underlayment panels? Figured it could help strengthen and I could lay it over seams to help reduce the feather finish and subfloor prep I’ll have to do. As far as height differences, shouldn’t be too big of an issue. Would actually work well with the heigh of tile in the bathroom, and shouldn’t be too much higher than carpet in bedrooms. Thanks for the help!

Any advise? yeah, don't pay him a dime. what is wrong w/these shady A contractors? holy hannah. That's the laziest crappiest baseboard job I've seen. I swear to god, Helen Keller could have done a better job! those should look like this. beautiful job you shouldn't be able to see where any of the holes were, any caulking, mismatched corners, etc. the nail holes are filled w/wood filler and excess wiped away. when dry, you go over every single fill spot w/a 220 grit sandpaper until it's nice and smooth. wipe away all dust w/a damp rag. prime. if you don't prime the filled spots, it will 'flash' after painting. (the filler absorbs more paint and it just looks horrible). So when I do baseboards I install, fill holes, sand, then prime, sand again (primer leaves a rough surface) wipe clean, then apply my paint. A lot of work? yes. Now you know why you got what you did. all of that takes a lot of time. time is money. you know what your guy did? slapped on some caulk (which can't be sanded smooth) with his finger, wiped it, didn't bother to wipe the excess and just slapped paint over it this needs wood filler (the front corner where the ends don't quite meet) filler that comes out even w/the surface. then it's sanded so you can't see the gap. large gaps should be filled w/sandable spackling/filler your guy is clueless. Tell him to read this. It basically says what I just wrote https://www.wikihow.com/Fill-Nail-Holes-in-Trim What are you paying him? whatever it is/was, it's too much. don't pay or he'll never fix it. tell him you want it all sanded smooth, all the holes/gaps filled w/wood filler (white) not caulk, sanded again, primed and painted.