Make sure they get plenty of light (see "Do I need special lights") and fertilize weekly (see" I'm new to starting seeds...?). When they're big enough to handle,usually when they have 2-3 sets of leaves, it's time to transplant them to individual containers,or space them out if you have them in a community flat. Those sown in individual containers should be thinned to the strongest seedling by snipping off the extras with scissors. Now that damping -off is less of a risk, you may want to use a part soil mix for "potting on", 1 part sterile potting soil to 2 parts vermiculite or perlite and /or sphagnum or peat, for the sake of economy. If you need to transplant,very carefully dig up the plants, with a knife or wooden label,etc.,taking care to get under the roots. Separate them gently, handling them by the leaves rather than the easily-damaged stems . I often use a pencil to help untangle the roots, using the same pencil to poke a hole in the soil ,making it deep enough that the roots can dangle and the seedling can be placed at the same depth it was growing previously. Firm the soil around the roots, and water well. Repeat until you're cross-eyed,then start again the next day..... Weather permitting ,seedlings may be transplanted outdoors at this stage ,or grown on indoors for larger transplants. Before planting out, seedlings or young plants must be "hardened off" over a period of 10-14 days. Begin by putting plants out in shade, giving some shelter from wind, and gradually exposing them to sun, maybe an hour at first,increasing an hour each day. Cut back on watering,but don't let them go completely dry. Once they're hardened off, they're ready to go outside permanently (where they belong!!). If possible,pick a cloudy day . Again, try to handle the roots with care,and set the plant at the same depth it was growing (though tomatoes benefit by being planted deeper,roots will form along the stem)firm the soil around the roots and water well, a dilute solution of water-soluble 15-30-15(a teaspoon to a gallon of water) will help stimulate the roots. When all your plants are in the ground, fix yourself a tall,cool one and celebrate !

The water part is what always gets me. Some seedlings seem to drink fast, others not so much. And when in starting cells it is too easy to go from well-watered to dry, which is why I try to transplant as soon as I see the true leaves. It's easier to manage water in even a 4" pot than it is in the flats. I even tried the newer wicking mat-equipped seed starting kits from Jiffy and NK, but I found the wicking mats just made the water evaporate quicker more than keeping the plants adequately watered. Some seedlings though, don't like being disturbed even once they get their first true leaves. Milkweed is notorious for dying on me if I try to plant to soon or too late. It's a guessing game on when the roots are enough to hold the media but not so long that I damage them when extracting them from the cells. I mentioned before, but I think I am going to start going overkill on Milkweed and just start them in 4 or 6" pots. I have tried direct sowing the the garden, but that rarely works. I had no issues what-so-ever with transplanting my Brugs though.

I hear you about the tap root development vs. the feeder root development argument. But I believe that since my plants roots are down to the bottom of the pot w/in about 10 days after sowing and out to the edges of the pot too, then the fibrous root trigger is happening. I believe your argument comes into play when seeds are sown directly into the garden, where there are no bounds. However, I will be open minded, as I was with the use of peat pots, and I will closely observe my plants roots tonight. If they have not been triggered into developing feeder roots, then there should be a tap root that has a few lateral branching roots, usually evenly spaced apart along the tap root, and not many fibrous roots. I also agree with you that most people over water plants. In my prior career, I did grow for a large commercial nursery with over 200 acres, albeit for only 7 years before switching careers. I was in the "color" department, which grew about 25 acres of annuals, perennials and holiday plants. Seven years is not nearly a long enough time to become a thorough expert, but I do know the basics.

I like that variegated one, I hope it doesn't fade to green on you ... I just bought some seeds from eBay, too, and I hope mine do as well as yours! Did you use fungicide on them? I prefer not to use chemicals if I can help it so I'm trying without, but I've seen some articles that say you need it, and others that say you don't.