"I wouldn't have either. IF it is torqued to spec. I wouldn't touch it again unless absolutle necessary." yeah, trust me i won't - hopefully it is in there good and will withstand the vibration of the engine. "Looks like the hole that originally was leaking?" yes, the leak was right above this screw... i'm starting to think the guy probably stripped the screw and put some thread lock or something similar on it and just screwed it back in there. after i realized it was stripped i pulled it out and it had what looked like some really lightweight aluminum or aluminum-like substance wrapped in the grooves of the bolt. this of course could be aluminum but seemed to be a little too brittle for engine aluminum. again, this is just a guess. "Now do me a favor and email me what camera you used for the pictures and how you got them from the camera into your post. I think you have my email address." sure thing! i'd be glad to Walt. the camera is a Fuji e510 5 megapixel digital camera that i've been happy with... they should be quite affordable now as i got it for $150 or so after rebate almost a year ago. i'll get that email to you in a bit.

I did not read where you had changed the crankcase oil after the new carb was put on. If the old carb had been leaking there would certainly have been a quantity of gasoline in the crankcase oil. What happens is that when the engine is started with gasoline in the crankcase oil, after the engine begins to get warm........the gasoline begins to boil out of the oil. The evaporated gasoline then vents out through the intake manifold carrying a mist of oil with it. This oil laden mist is then burned in the combustion chamber. This scenario has been repeated countless times. If ever your engine gets gas into the oil this will occur. In addition to the new carb did the "tech" suggest that you need to install an inline fuel cut off valve and shut the valve off except when you are actually using the machine? Having an inline cut off valve and using it consistently is the ONLY way to ensure you never have this issue again. Even after you change the oil (and filter if equipped) you can expect some smoke for a few minutes until all the residual oil is burned out of the exhaust system.

I have read so many of these posts I am getting dizy. Aug of 2011 I decided to have the head gasket change to stop the oil leakage from the NEW Fuel Punp Had it all set to go to the shop before going on vacation. Things got screwed up and the hired grass cutter did not cut the grass when i was gone. So now I had to use my all cleaned up engine to mow the grass sevelal times. I noticede that I was no longer loosing oil from the fuel pump. HELLO!! Since that time, 12 months ago, I maintain the oil level at the bottom line and have not lost any oil for the last 12 months. I think you are OVER filling when using the top mark. Cheap fix try it befor spending money.

If there are two flue tiles sticking out of the chimney top, I can't think of any way the chimney would not have two fully lined flues. There would be no way to support tiles just at the top and you would not have two separarte flues to accomodate the furnace and fireplace. What kind of condition the flue tiles are in is another question entirely. 6" under the shingles is not really very much at all, so water could indeed be running under and back toward the chimney, especially since the roof itself is "swayed". A second factor is the age of the roof. Unless they are very heavy duty, 22 years is about the life expectancy of asphalt shingles. You really have two different if related issues: the condition of the roof itself and the condition of the chimney. Some chimney sweeps have video cameras they can lower down the chimney to check the interior. A roofing company can inspect the total roof. Potential expenses for sure, but continuing to try and deal unsuccessfully with the leakage is not a great option either.