Mahogany door with minwax jacobean stain
HU-39880232
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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HU-39880232
2 years agoJen K (7b, 8a)
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Can I see pics of your stained hardwood floors (Minwax)?
Comments (10)househappy, the cedar beams you see in the photo are stained with Early American. As you can see, they blend with the flooring and the door trim (which is stained with SW Walnut Wainscott). Early American on oak flooring won't be as dark and a touch of orange will show thru. Your flooring guys will have several cans of left over stains and before they begin, will/should stain patches of the floor for you to see (at least 1ft square). They'll sand it off before starting after you select a color. We had enough stains around, so I played on a scrap piece of flooring before that day - but we still let them put down the various stains for me to see. Like gabeach stated, the paint store will be happy to do test samples also - I did this on the cedar before deciding. They'll do the already mixed for free, but if you want to see a speciality mix (like Walnut Wainscott) you'll have to buy a quart....See MoreMinwax stain for kitchen hardwood
Comments (2)We just had our floors refinished (to get rid of the old, very worn, butterscotch look) so I understand your challenge. i wanted a warm medium-brown that wasn't orange-y. The look I was aiming for is the larger photo when you scroll down in the link below, which reads "This is more what our floors look like today" or something similar. Studying the photo I decided I wanted to highlight the grain but to also allow the individual colors of the boards to show through. I liked the life in this floor. It took me a while to realize that I was looking for a less opaque stain (hence the natural). I have NO idea what stains were used on the floor in the photo (and cannot give credit since I don't know the origin of the photo), but I feel we achieved something really close using a mix of 1 provincial: 1 jacobean : 2 natural. This was on red oak, using a different brand of stain (Bona), with solvent-based Swedish finish over it. I think using 2 parts natural allow the red tint of the red oak to show on some boards, which makes it warm. I am crazy about our new floors. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: similar look to our floors...See MorePicking Minwax stain color for beadboard ceiling of porch
Comments (1)Hi Sophiegisme, I know it's been a while since you posted this, but I was wondering what colors you ended up using. I'm having my front porch done in ipe, with a stained beadboard ceiling. You used mahogany on the floor, which is similar to the ipe, and I'm curious as to what stain you used on the ceiling. Did you go for the color match with Minwax Red Chestnut, or something else for contrast, and how did you like it? Thanks....See MoreMinwax vs Varathane Stain
Comments (29)in the short of it, its best to get both and experiment to see what works best for you - the long version is -in all honesty - your question is one of opinion and taste - ask an artist how to choose their medium - they will tell you it depends on what they are trying to accomplish. im new to varathane as well, but NOT new to the trade - i have only used minwax on wood, and rustoleum on metal - some wood too - never used minwax on metal at all - rustoleum is more diverse in that way. (varathane is a rustoleum product) Minwax seems to be strictly wood. I have found that minwax needs more coats, that is a plus and minus depending on circumstances. I have had awesome results with minwax.. sometimes the slower drying multiple coats can work very well for different projects. i feel it was a better product to work with so far... i need more time to find out though there are different crafts that may require different applications to achieve the art or final result you are looking for. the craftsman has to know which works for him and which works for his current project. maybe minwax will work better on a certain project or has a color that you prefer vice versa.. I have been trying Varathane and i like a few things about it, but i fell its a lower quality - not so sure i like that rustoleum makes it because i have had 50/50 results using rustoleum on several different wood projects, some metal work some wood - i had excellent results with rustoleum with certain metal projects - others not at all. A true craftsman - home DIY projects or an experienced artistic expert craftsman - has no set rules to follow with materials, its how you use them. excuse this example, but its like asking your friend how your wife will feel if you try something new in the bedroom.., his methods (and equipment) may be different than yours and therefore has different results.. and to put it bluntly its true. I suggest using both and find your way. - experiment with both - make test samples and see which is best for you . . I think that a slower stain with several coats will give you a more controlled experience and lustrous look - like it has layers and gives a transparent depth to it. I have had excellent wood projects with minwax but it does take longer. . if minwax increased it drying time - id stick with them. the varathane - being that it dies dry faster and coats better (note they have 2 products of all the same colors - yellow can and white can - one is thinner the other is thicker - the white one has more pigment the yellow can has less.) but i experienced an uneven drying with varathane and even though it works good for one coat, patience is a virtue and i like to see even coats. The minwax may need several coats, and a lot longer drying time but the end result is a smoother more even tone were i find that varathane will coat heavier but you have to be attentive to all areas or one spot may have darker streeks. I guess thats why they made 2 versions - in the end - im stuck with varathane because the HD has changed contracts - minwax is now with lowes, and lowes is 30 minutes further away making an hour round trip where HD is walking distance. - i also feel that the varathane stain seems to smell and feel cheaper quality - i dont know if the multiple coats produces different looks on different finished wood - so again, its really best to have both and see which works for you. on the positive note, im changing the cabinets to a darker color. i did not have to sand all the way to the wood - but i dont know the durability with varathane yet. minwax i usually have to take it down to the wood. minwax was extremely durable - to this day it doesnt rub or scratch off. Im worried the varathane will peel or be able to get your finger nail and dig into it and scrape it off - i have had that experience with other rustoleum products making them seem cheap to me. I hope the time i took to share my opinions were helpful cheers...See Moremillworkman
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