From reading all of this it is apparent to me that the DIY methods are radically different from the old school plumbers methods. Everyone is talking about running to the hardware store and replacing the stem and such. I must be getting Alzheimer's or something because I honestly can't remember the last time I actually had to replace a stem. In the trade the old school plumbers all have a small metal multi-compartmented box that holds a complete assortment of both flat & beveled faucet washers, an assortment of Bib screws, brass cup washers and hopefully a pair of bottoming taps for the screw threads. In addition we have a roll of stem packing material and a couple specialty tools, a handle puller and a set of plumbers sockets. Now I would not expect a homeowner to purchase a complete Sexauer Washer set at $55 but you can buy a complete assortment of washers at any hardware store for about $2 and keep them in your tool box. Begin by turning the water off at an angle stop, a zone valve or at the main if necessary, then open the faucet and drain the line. Remove the handle retaining screw, then use the handle puller to lift the handle off the end of the stem shaft. Pounding on the handle with a wrench is a sure way to damage the handle. (handle pullers are about $10 at any hardware store) If the stem body is accessible such as on the laundry faucet in question or a kitchen or lavatory faucet use an adjustable wrench to remove the stem body. If the stem body is recessed into the wall such as on a tub/shower mixer use a plumbers socket to remove it. (A full set of plumbers sockets is about $10 at any hardware store). When you get the stem body out remove the bib screw that holds the washer on the end of the stem, then remove the old washer. Examine the end of the stem. Most stems have a cast raised ridge that surrounds the outer part of the washer to prevent it from expanding outwards. You may find a chip or two missing from that ridge, if so, that is not a big problem but in a worst case we find the greater portion of that ridge is missing. In that case we use a pair of pliers to break off the remaining portion of the ridge, then use a file to smooth any burrs so the end of the stem has a flat surface. Select the correct washer and if you had to file the end of the stem flat you install a brass cup washer under the washer to replace the ridge. If you have a bottoming tap available it is best to run the tap in the threads of the stem to clean the threads, then put the screw through the washer and into the stem and tighten it in place. Next, unscrew the stem packing nut on the outer end of the stem and turn the stem until you can remove it from the stem body. Use a fine stainless steel wire brush to clean the threads of the stem and apply a liberal coating of "Plumbers grease" on the threads. (A small 1oz can of plumbers grease is available at any hardware store for about $.50 to $1.) Now remove the old stem packing material from the outer end of the stem body. Insert the stem into the body and turn it until the stem is in the full open position. Now you wind the new stem packing material around the stem shaft and push it down into the stem journal. continue packing until the stem packing material is slightly higher than the end of the stem body. Replace the stem packing nut and tighten slightly so you feel a slight friction when turning the stem. Now set the stem aside for a minute. Reach your finger nail into the faucet body and feel the surface of the seat. If the seat is pitted, chipped or feels like a rough sandpaper surface replace the seat. To replace the seat you insert a seat wrench into the center opening of the seat, then unscrew the seat. (You can get a seat wrench at any hardware store for about $3). Normally you will have to take the old seat to a good neighborhood hardware store and have them match a new one. (Ace & True value hardware stores are great for matching seats, but don't expect a lot of luck at Lowes or HD) Here is a tip. The original seats are usually brass. For a few cents more you can get "Monel metel" which will hold up much better and if you have severe hard water condition that tears the seats up quickly you might want to get a stainless steel seat. The SS is will cost about twice as much as the brass but it will outlast the brass 10 to 1. Before installing the new seat apply a couple turns of white single density Teflon tape to the threads. (There is a trick to installing the new seat. It is nearly impossible to hold the seat and get the threads started in the faucet body. The trick is to wedge the new seat on the end of your seat wrench and use the wrench to reach it in an start it.) Now here is the one point that many people overlook. Before you attempt to install the stem body back into the faucet be sure the stem is turned to the full open position. If it is in the closed position the new washer will be pressed too tightly against the seat and it is instantly distorted beyond use. Tighten the stem body, then turn the water one. You may need to tighten the stem packing nut a bit to seal the new packing. Once you are sure there is no leak replace the handle and your done. The first time you do this you may end up buying the afore mentioned tools but even if you do buy the tools, the total cost of the job is far less than the cost of a professional service call, and once you own the tools the next time you do this job all you will be out is a few cents for the washers and stem packing. I would strongly suggest every homeowner or DIY'er should get these tools and keep them in your tool box. Also, next time your at a hardware grab a package of assorted faucet washers. The package is about a dollar or two and with the price of gas it simply isn't worth coming back to the store for them when you need them.

Any more offers? 1. If you like to save margarine or other plastic containers with lids to store things, here's a handy storage for the lids, which tend ordinarily to slide all over and make a mess. We get our milk in square boxes, just under 3" square, about 9" high, with top folded like a roof, squeezing open part of the roof to pour it. I pull open the rest of the roof, measure the width of the largest lid that you want to store up from the bottom, then cut from there down the middle of one side of the box, then fold each cut side down and staple. Then cut down each corner of the box to just a bit above the space needed, then fold the four sides over one another, cutting off extra material if there is any, and staple. To make the sides a bit stiffer, after you cut down the side of the box, slip a yardstick at the fold of each of the flaps and fold the flap down over the yardstick, to make an edge about 1/16 - 1/8" just before the flap turns down. If you do that, it helps if you lay the box on a board just wide enough to fill the hole in the side of the box and staple into it from the outside, rather than using the bottom of the stapler, which will push down the folded edge of the wall that you want to make. That will hold your lids in one place, in order, on edge, taking up only a small space in the cupboard, drawer, etc. 1a. Cut to a different length, they make handy storage containers for letters, as well. Slip two together, top to top, then staple to make a box for business-sized envelopes. You'll soon learn that you'd like to use the fold-over-the-yardstick system for the outside one of them, to make the sliding easier and to add strength to the sides, even though there may be two of them for most of the distance, I think. 2. Use frozen orange, etc. juice containers when empty to hold pens, pencils, etc. on your desk. I use them to hold nuts, candy, etc., as well ... but have had some trouble with Indian grain moths, whose larvae love nuts, cookies, etc. and whole wheat (but not white) flour. We have individual yogurt containers with sloping sides that fit just nicely into the tops of those juice containers, to foil the larvae and the webs that they spin (in addition to the residue from their behind that they leave behind). I can leave the various processed breakfast cereals out in a dish on the table for a week and those critters won't touch them - smarter than we are, I guess. ole joyful

Once it's well seasoned you won't need to scour much, but at most use a plastic brush or scrubber. Lacking that, use some coarse salt and a paper towel. If it isn't seasoned and some stuff has stuck, here's what I find usually works: put water in the pan to cover the stuck stuff. Bring it to boil, then turn it off. Let it soak a little while you clean up the rest of the kitchen. Then use salt or a plastic scrubber to dislodge the stuck stuff. Once clean, rinse out with hot water, paper towel it dry then put back on the burner on low for a minute or so to drive the remaining moisture out of the pores of the iron. While the pan is warm, put a tiny amount of oil (I use grapeseed) and use a paper towel to rub it into the inside of the pan. You don't want it really greasy, it'll attract dust. Oh, and if your cast iron piece has a lid and you live in a humid climate, don't store it with the lid snug or the inside will rust. You can fold up a paper towel and put it on the rim, then put the lid on to allow air to circulate within the pot.

Wow! Most of the time you need to cut through a lot of rind to get to the melon, but not so on this thread. A big shout out to @Sophie Wheeler, @Virgil Carter and @Girsh Development for shining the light on some important aspects of custom home building. As @ Sophie Wheeler opined, do the work up front. This means investing in a good set of plans and specifications as @Virgil Carter advised. It might be counter intuitive, but a well-documented, and accurate set of plans and specifications is in your builder's best interest, too--not just yours. The fewer ambiguities, the fewer "issues" will arise that tend to result in bad feelings or change orders. Good plans minimize the time required in the construction phase. It is in your best interest to select your builder early in the process and involve them during the design process. In construction there is usually more than one alternative to achieve the desired outcome and your builder can provide useful insights with regard to the cost and benefits of each alternative during design. In addition, the builder and architect can discuss the required construction details that need to be drawn, reducing the cost of design. Sometimes a detail is redundant since it's specified in the building code or something the builder does on a routine basis. Focus on those details that are unique to your project. In short, a good set of plans and specs will go a long way to ensure an on-time, on-budget completion As noted by @Virgil Carter, there are a variety of contract options from which you can choose, provided your builder and your lender are open to them. It is important to understand the risks and benefits of each alternative and choose the one best suited to your needs and the constraints imposed by your lender. Contrary to popular opinion, most builders--at least the reputable ones-- do not salivate over the prospect of change orders. In our office we have a saying: "A change is an opportunity for a mistake." There is a huge effort in implementing what seems to the client to be a simple change because of the number of individuals and trades affected by the particular change. The cost of delaying the project, researching the feasibility and cost of the change and processing all of the paperwork to all the affected individuals and trades is rarely recovered by the cost of a change order. That said, the change order process should be specified and agreed by all parties when you enter into a contract--not left as something to be worked out later. Finally, as @Girsh Development noted, nice clients get more for their money than PIA, that is, difficult clients. When issues arise, work them out with your builder in a collaborative fashion. Best wishes for a successful project.