This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Had to look this up, as I've never heard the term Pearl finish before. "Uses Because of their easy-to-clean quality, pearl pain finishes are often used in kitchens and bathrooms. They are also commonly used for trim details, such as doors, window frames, base moldings and crown moldings." Just finished first coat of Aura paint in my BR, and have now realized that he sold me the plain Aura, not the Bath and Spa...arghhh...even had the girl plug into the computer that it was going in my BR (though that was after it had been mixed). Oh well, we have addressed moisture issues with a ceiling fan and pocket door and towel warming rack, so should be OK. Good news is it looks so pretty!

It depends on which type of paint grade he uses in a particular brand. I like to use BM Aura. I now live in CA and DE is a local company, so many of the painters are more used to it and it used to be more easily available than BM. Even in the 5 years we have been here, BM has expanded quite a bit. Old habits are hard to break! The exterior of our stucco house is painted in DE, as that is a proven elastomeric paint designed for stucco and the climate here. No issues with that paint at all. Your painter probably has an account with DE and gets better pricing. I am remodeling some bathrooms and told my painter exactly what I wanted, written down in detail (BM Aura Bath & Spa in matte). He purchased it and will hand those receipts to my GC and I'll be charged extra for the premium paint, which I am happy to pay extra for a product I have used before and been happy with.

Heather, you might get more responses in the paint forum. I just posted something there too about painting oak cabinets (primer issues with Advance). I have been testing the BM Advance. We have 8 interior doors, 10 bi-fold closets, 2 bathroom bathroom vanities, all the trim work in the house along with family room cabinetry. In other words, I have a lot of painting to do. I like the Advance and more information seems available on it then the Pittsburgh. We purchased a sprayer that was tested with the Advance (Earlex 5500) for all the doors. BM colors are more familiar to people on the forums as well. As you will hear time and again, it is all in the prep! Clean, sand, dust, prime, sand ... So many threads on the subject, it can be dizzying! Are you doing this yourself or having a pro do it?