To prune or not to prune- summer edition
CeresMer Zone 7a NJ
2 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (16)
CeresMer Zone 7a NJ
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCeresMer Zone 7a NJ
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Training young fruit trees with summer pruning only
Comments (13)It is not usually necessary to turn water sprouts into fruiting units as many apple varieties bear best flower buds on undisturbed second year wood (the moderately vigorous annual shoots). Unless you are talking about espaliers. There are also varieties that bear their best apples on the tips of last years wood. I never need to create bud wood by heading back water sprouts- never. Not with any species. It is probably something I could use with super vigorous and vertical growers like N. Spy but I don't have time to keep coming back and prefer just to festoon uprights in the winter. The following winter they've sent up more uprights from the bent wood which I remove all but least vigorous and next harvest season the lower part of bent shoots usually have fruit. After a couple years of doing this overexcited growth usually calms down. There are many ways to skin a cat. Some take more time....See MoreSummer Pruning Stone Fruits
Comments (13)This is mainly a California issue, perhaps, but might apply elsewhere: (from the UC Ag. and Natrl. Res. site) "Apricots and cherries can have a fairly short lifespan in many climate zones in California due to a disease called Eutypa. This disease is able to invade through pruning wounds especially during the wet winter months. This disease causes limbs or twigs to wilt and die suddenly in late spring or summer with the leaves still attached. The bark may appear dark with an amber colored gumming on the branches. To combat the disease and reduce the potential for Eutypa to infect trees, you should begin pruning your apricot and cherry trees during the later part of summer and early fall at least 4-6 weeks prior to rainfall. However, realize that you may be opening your trees to sunburn with summer pruning so be sure to paint exposed branches with a diluted white latex housepaint with 50:50 water to paint mix. Also avoid pruning if you are going to have an extended period of 100 degree plus weather. " Think "fireblight" for stone fruits. When living in So. Cal. many years back I also used to prune my peach tree during the dormant season without any problems. So far I've done the same here where it is much damper and I see no problems. Yet. But I do try to do most cherry and apricot pruning during the summer. This is not really an ideal climate for either (or peaches, for that matter) so I'm trying not to push my luck. This post was edited by steve_in_los_osos on Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 14:43...See MoreSummer pruning indicates I should have pruned more
Comments (24)Each time you deadhead, cut the cane way back. A new cane will grow but the shorter cane it grows from will limit its overall height. A three foot cane growing from a cane pruned to 12 to 18 inches will not end up as tall as a similar one growing from a cane pruned back to four feet. Your summer maintenance practices can limit the overall height of the bush. My experience is that a shorter pruned plant tends to bush out more and get wider. By choice, my hybrid teas stay within the 3-5 feet tall range...See MoreCrepe Myrtle- bad aphids, I pruned in summer
Comments (12)Angie, Well at least manslaughter is not as serious as murder. Seriously, though, sometimes you just have to do what you have to do and I don't think y'all have harmed the crape myrtle at all. I would go ahead and cut out the dead trunk. I don't know that I'd say y'all went too far in your efforts to improve the health of your crape myrtle. It looks pretty good right now. The population of crape myrtle aphids usually peaks in late July and early August. Sometimes when the infestation is especially heavy, the lady bugs do have a hard time keeping up with all the aphids. I am glad you didn't spray anything that would hurt the lady bugs because they are incredibly beneficial. In the future, you can simply knock the apids off the plants with a sharp stream of water at high pressure. (You can use a hose nozzle or watering wand that has a high-pressure feature to do this. On my watering wand, there is a position called 'jet' that sprays a high-pressure stream of water when the want is set to that feature.) Sometimes you have to do it once or twice a day until you've done it enough to discourage them enough that they just move on. The honeydew from the aphids is not a problem in and off itself, but it can serve as a host for a black mold called sooty mold. It is unsightly and can cause defoliation when it is heavy, but the overall health of the tree is not harmed and new leaves will come out to replace any that fall off because of the sooty mold. There are several ways to deal with the aphids in the future so that you don't have a recurring issue with them every year. First, you can spray your crape myrtle with dormant oil during the dormant season in order to kill overwintering aphids. Then, in spring, check the undersides of your crape myrtle leaves in spring and spray them with insecticidal soap as soon as you notice aphids. If you can nip their population in the bud early, you usually can avoid having a major infestation of them. Having said that, since crape myrtle aphids only feed on crape myrtles, there always will be a population of them in your general area every summer, so keep checking the plants weekly and either hose off the aphids or use insecticidal soap on the undersides of the leaves. Once it is hot, though, you don't want to spray insecticidal soap on foliage because it can burn foliage of some plants in hot weather. Another alternative would be to buy and release lady bugs at the first sign of aphids on the plants in the spring. Lady bugs are kind of random and sometimes don't show up until the aphid population is huge. Sometimes I'll see them focusing on a specific pest on a specific type of plant when I'd rather have them on some other kind of plant eating its pests, but lady bugs don't take orders from humans. They don't even take requests. By buying them and releasing them on the crape myrtles when you see the aphid population appearing, you're ensuring the lady bugs are there while the population of aphids is small and more easy to wipe out. I am sure there are some broad-spectrum insecticides that would target the aphids, but I don't use broad-spectrum insecticides because they will kill all the beneficial insects too, so I am hoping you do not choose to spray with a broad-spectrum insecticide. About 97% of the insects we have in our yards and gardens are beneficial, and it would be a shame to kill them while trying to kill the 3% that are harmful. The aphid population will start dropping naturally in early to mid-August which is not that far away, so I'd just try to be patient and wait it out. I'm going to link my favorite Crape Myrtle website. It has great info in its FAQ and in its section on basic Crape Myrtle care. It also features a lot of great photos. If you're a lover of Crape Myrtles and you're ever traveling down to Dallas or points southward during Crape Myrtle season, it is well worth your while to visit McKinney for an hour or two just to see the incredible array of crape myrtles grown there. Whenever we are near McKinney in crape myrtle season, I make up an excuse to get off the highway and stop there just so we can enjoy the crape myrtles that are planted simply all over the place in McKinney. Sometimes when a plant has been topped (and this will sound drastic, but the CMs can survive it), the best way to restore its shape is to cut it back to the ground while it is dormant in winter or early spring. Then it will grow back in the shape that is natural for it. I did that with the 30-year-old crape myrtle on our property in Fort Worth because it appeared it had been topped repeatedly before we bought our house there. It regrew beautifully and the only pruning I ever had to do after that was just to remove the dead seedheads, damaged branches, branches that rubbed on one another, etc. I agree with your father-in-law that there's not much you can do to a crape myrtle that will permanently harm it. They are incredibly resilient plants. They fall in a category of great landscape plants that won't die and that you cannot kill easily (if at all). Well, extreme and exceptional drought did kill some crape myrtles in 2011, but I assume that is because they were not watered or not watered enough. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Crape Myrtle Trails...See MoreCeresMer Zone 7a NJ
2 years agoLilyfinch z9a Murrieta Ca
2 years agoCeresMer Zone 7a NJ
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agothreelittlelights13ny7a
2 years agoKristine LeGault 8a pnw
2 years agoCeresMer Zone 7a NJ
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCeresMer Zone 7a NJ
2 years agomonarda_gw
2 years agothreelittlelights13ny7a
2 years agoRose Lai (9b)
2 years agoRose Lai (9b)
2 years agothreelittlelights13ny7a
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING 101When Should You Prune Your Trees and Shrubs?
Pruning keeps plants healthy. Find out the best time to cut back flowering trees, needle-bearing shrubs and more
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESTidy Up Sprawling Native Shrubs With These Pruning Tips
Sound horticultural pruning methods work for native and nonnative plants alike
Full StoryWINTER GARDENINGPruning Secrets for Exquisite Roses
Encourage gorgeous blooms year after year with this time-tested advice on how to prune your rosebush in winter for health and shape
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESWhen Is the Right Time to Prune Your Hydrangeas?
The type of hydrangea you have determines when it’s time to trim
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESTake Care of Your Hedges With These Pruning Pointers
Hedging plants are often called the garden’s architecture. Here’s how to keep different kinds healthy and attractive
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Prune Your Flowering Shrubs for the Best Blooms
Less is often more when it comes to properly pruning flowering shrubs. Here’s what to do and why
Full StoryGARDENING 101Key Pruning Terms to Help You Shape Up Your Garden
Learn why heading back, crown raising and other practices are essential for your plants’ health and beauty
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGot Frost-Damaged Plants? How It Happens, and When and How to Prune
Crispy brown leaves are a sure sign that Jack Frost has been to your neighborhood
Full StoryREGIONAL GARDEN GUIDESDelight in Summer’s Garden Glories — Here’s What to Do in June
Wherever you live in the United States, these guides can help you make the most of your summer garden
Full StoryMOST POPULAREnjoy Your Summer Garden — Here’s What to Do in July
Our July gardening guides take the guesswork out of summer watering, pruning and planting. See our tips for your U.S. region
Full Story
Rose Lai (9b)