Upgrade Insulation in the Attic?
HU-939966930
2 years ago
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Expanding Foam Attic Insulation
Comments (2)Hi, I think the foam is a good way to go, but on the pricey side. There are several types of foam, so I'd look into that -- both R value per inch and permeability to air flow are different between foams. If you want a good and cheaper solution, then I'd say carefully seal all the openings between the living space and attic -- everywhere a wire or pipe penetrates, vent pipes, chimneys, ducts, light fixtures, can lights, ... Seal them all to prevent air from exfiltrating from living space to attic. According to one study, living space to attic airflow is larger than infiltration around windows, doors etc. Then blow cellulose in yourself -- the big box hardwares will loan you a blower. This is cheap, fairly easy, and is very good insulation. Make sure you also seal any heating/cooling ducts at every joint with duct mastic. the book "Insulate and Weatherize" by Harley is very good. Gary...See MoreCross-post: Upgrading Electrical with Vermiculite Insulation
Comments (4)Hi everyone, Thanks for the feedback. I am familiar with Zonolite and the background behind the asbestos contamination. In speaking with an asbestos abatement company in the area, he said that for the period my house was built in there was a high prevalence of Zonolite use, and given his experience with the area, there's about a 75%-80% chance that my vermiculite will test positive for asbestos. He also said that testing is not all it's cracked up to be, because different areas within the same house can have different levels of asbestos contamination. One area could test low or none, while another part could be much higher. Given all of that information, I am going to assume that somewhere in this house, my vermiculite contains asbestos, and treat it as such. While I agree that to some extent, this whole asbestos thing has been blown out of proportion, I also know that many educated contractors in this area will outright refuse to work on houses that contain vermiculite insulation. I wanted to get my home weatherized and I had two different companies tell me they won't do anything with my attic since it has vermiculite. However, weatherization might lead to a much larger exposure than electrical wiring, assuming that it could be done without having to open up the walls - which is why I am wondering if it is possible to replace the wiring, without having to make any holes. This isn't just for the sake of risking asbestos exposure either. This house has all original plaster, (other than the upstairs bath and the sunroom), and I am hesitant to open up the walls for risk of having to replace it. I adore my plaster walls (they are one of my favorite features of this house). Also, I did some research, and given what I have seen by opening up various outlets in the house, we appear to have aluminum wiring... which is definitely cause for concern, as it appears to be a pretty widely-recognized fire hazard. Not sure what's more dangerous... asbestos or aluminum wiring....See MoreFix Attic Insulation That is Matted Down?
Comments (8)First I'm assuming that you're talking about fiberglass batt insulation. If it is just matted down because it has been stepped on, then yes you can can fluff it back up to a larger thickness. If it has been rearranged to form nests, then your best bet is probably to remove and replace it with new. Depending on the extent of the activity, the possibility exists that it is covered with urine, droppings, etc. from the rodents and (assuming that all activitiy has been arrested) you may want to clean out the attic and re-insulate anyway. I know first-hand that this is a real crappy job, but worth it when it's done. Check any wiring up there also to see if they gnawed on it....See MoreInsulate attic in 1920s craftsman with converted attic
Comments (12)OP here. My roof is in great shape so I won't be replacing it any time soon plus it has some interesting curves to it so adding rigid foam and sleepers over the roof deck might be more trouble than its worth. See pic: I do have the gable vents and the giant vent over the porch so I think ventilation in the front part of the attic (the shorter knee wall in the original picture) is ok. I think what I've decided to do is to add soffit vents on the back of the house (where there are no intake vents). Then I'll install a foil radiant barrier on the bottom of the roof deck in all of the accessible attic areas. I will pull down the wood paneling stuff, add rigid foam between the studs in the knee wall as well as the roof rafters, and install sheetrock over it all. Its all 2x6 so I should be able to get 4 inches of foam (R20 or so) in there while still leaving a 2 inch gap for air flow under the roof. I found a guy on craigslist selling 4 inch closed cell foam at 75c per sqft. I've also thought about being cheap and just using fiberglass batts (r16) with baffles on the roof deck instead of foam. That would cost r4 but save quite a bit of money. So long as I make sure I've got a good air seal with the sheetrock and plenty of ventilation, after that, its all down to r value right? I've also essentially given up on the thought of spray foam on the roof deck. That would cost in the neighborhood of 5k plus the cost of ripping off and reinstalling the sheetrock....See MoreHU-939966930
2 years agomike_home
2 years agomike_home
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCharles Ross Homes
2 years agoHU-939966930
2 years agomaddielee
2 years ago
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