Thanks very much Norma, I've learned a lot from you & the groups here & at my local Indoor Gardening & C&S Societies. What's to be so brave about? Just try it on the next leaf that falls off or breaks, trim the bottom & try, you know how that goes. If you just use a single leaf, no need to be brave, I'm not suggesting one does an entire plant. That said, I'm keeping this one Hydro, see no need to even introduce it to mix. I'm so pleased w/ this, I started another on a S. Masoniana leaf & a week ago the new plantlet emerged. Will have to post pix, but I was fiddling w/ nearby plants & from behind the single blade of leaf, like it was peeking around the corner, was the first new growth on the Masoniana leaf. I practically broke out in a jig I was so delighted. I'm telling you Norma, this is the COOLEST thing to try.

Some species just don't grow tall, stronger plant occur when then are given less water more light (brighht shade) some species grow in the open amoung the grasses, or rocks, so really want dry conditions, they have adapted to dry conditions, at one time I am told that they were growing in with more water perhaps more tropical and really ancient lake beds that dried up for their summer. It all depends on the species, I have one that grows on the top of an ancient coral bed. The elephants are very fond of them mostly for the tuber that they dig up to provide water. These animals don't realize that they are providing a new crop for themselves. Another tip, the thin leaf species like S. trifaciata which has a tip on the top of the leaf that bend easily needs more water. That is the clue that tells you how much water it needs or that you can use more organic matter in your mix. Norma

I'll be getting the regular flu shot soon and I'm not sure about H1N1. I've gotten the regular shot every year for several years since I have lots of allergy/sinus/asthma trouble and even normal colds hit me hard and last a long time, usually with a sinus infection to follow, etc. (Sorry if TMI!) We spend a lot of time with my 80-year-old mom and my concern is that we'd pass the flu on to her. Since I inherited my upper-respiratory and allergy tendencies from her, she'd be in big trouble if she had the flu. I'm sure she'll get the regular flu shot this year, too, but as always, it's uncertain as to whether the formulation is accurate for this year's strains. One school about an hour away from us is closed as 1/3 of the students are out with the flu, and they haven't determined if it's H1N1. It did seem like they hyped H1N1 a few months ago, but now the news seems to be full of stories on it.

I have my sans in a custom mix with pine bark fines and they are thriving and my mix drains well why would anyone say bark is bad for sans? the problem is you are watering on a schedule you can forget sans in the winter ESPECIALLY in low light conditions less light always means less water i had NO noticable growth on my sans in low light, so while they survive in those conditions, they will not thrive in those conditions i moved mine to a sunny location, water less than once a month in the winter, water more often in the growing season AND like someone else mentioned i use DynaGro foliage pro spring to September they shot up like crazy and sent me pups i keep all but one in clay pots I have a wood burning stove in the winter … my home is dry … i still don't water my sans more than once a month in the winter and mine are in a south window … for low light i would wait two months to water them i just planted my new Sayuri in the gritty mix. how can anyone think the gritty mix can’t hold the weight of the plant???? Shes the tallest sans i have right now and shes sturdy in the grit If you arent comfortable with the gritty mix, use Als 5:1:1 mix it has superior drainage and all my potted annuals absolutely thrived in it i buy reptibark since i can’t find pine bark fines in my area When i do water, i water thoroughly so as not to leave dry air pockets in my pots so in essence the roots are getting a good drench but drainage is the key no perched water