My annual BOBO report :)
rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
2 years ago
And a singleton:
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My soil report, any comments?
Comments (17)Your soil report looks very normal for native soil. A few thoughts on the test. First, the pH is normal for our area and you have a lot of free lime. Any attempts to lower the pH will take a LOT of sulfur or other acidifying agent to neutralize all the lime. The trees will do fine at your current pH, though. The pH tends to quickly mineralize the phosphate and ties up the iron. Consequently, soils tests usually show them to be low. However, with a clay soil, it probably has a reddish cast, which is iron oxide and in that case, you have plenty of iron, it just isn't in a soluble form due to pH, and you also probably have plenty of phosphate but again it isn't in an available form. You can sprinkle a little iron sulfate on the surface if you want, the sulfur seems to keep the iron available long enough that the plants can drink it up, but you need to reapply every year or two as it gets tied up in the soil. The best guide for that is whether the leaves show yellowing from iron chlorosis. Different varieties and rootstocks all seem to have different abilities to take in iron, and you may not need to supplement iron at all, or you may get trees that will require a lot of supplementation. You can add phosphate, but it is likely to be mineralized in the soil over time. Boron is low, which I also frequently see, but you really don't want it that low. You can add some boron, but take it easy as as a reading of 2-4 parts per million is adequate, and if you go over 4 ppm, it can quickly become toxic to the plants. Mulch will probably be the best thing you can do. As it rots, it releases organic acids that will create a shallow layer of lower pH soil and once the tree roots reach this layer, they will probably find plenty of iron and phosphate. Just add mulch, leaves, etc. and let them decompose around the trees, then refresh the layer as it breaks down. I try to mulch my trees that aren't surrounded by lawn with pine needles, and then fertilize the trees when I see signs that something is missing. If they start showing iron chlorosis, I'll add some iron sulfate. Lack of growth or pale leaves, then I'll give them a little nitrogen. Just keep them mulched and add additional fertilizer based on what the tree is telling you it needs....See MoreAnnual Credit reports?
Comments (11)Hi Sweets98, Just b/c the bills aren't on the credit report doesn't mean they aren't out there. What some institutions do is let the debt linger out there. Sometimes they don't even report it for 5 years or longer, they sell the loan to someone else etc. etc. It's great that you are paying down all the bills that you owe, believe me once you start settling they come out of the woodwork. The other thing you can do to locate creditors is look at the list of recent inquiries b/c if there are agencies that have been checking your credit regularly every few months then you can contact them to find out "why". I wouldn't call them all at once....cuz they will start hounding you. Call one at a time. Once you have one paid call the next one. You will get it all straightened out. Also I would recommend signing up for credit monitoring. The best one is True Credit http://www.truecredit.com/entry/drtv1.jsp?cb=DRTV1 It's 9.95 a month but it updates your score monthly. Any new accounts, closed accounts andy pay offs or settlements (that are reported to the 3 bureaus) I use this service and I find it helpful. I just bought my first home and I plan on using this service for 1 year. I had student loans that I just finished paying most of, then consolodated the rest so now one payment but I wanted to see how my credit was affected. It's really come in handy. I know some people don't agree w/credit monitoring but it is useful for people trying to improve their credit score that are paying off old debt or closing out accounts and just want to be informed. Good Luck...See MoreBobo, Annabelle, or Little Lime?
Comments (42)NHBabs, I wonder if we should also consider the climate/zone too. When I lived in Zone 5 all of my paniculatas grew to full size quickly. Here in Zone 3, it's a whole different story for me... 3 years later, my QF is still only 3 x 3 feet even though it started as a big plant in a 5 gallon pot. The same for my Pinky Winky, etc etc. Something to think about......See MoreBased on My Water Report, How Should I Fertilize?
Comments (12)Westes: The first answer was the simplest - that water report does not tell you much with respect to plants. Understandably you were not satisfied. But your question sounds like that you are looking for a perfect scientific solution. Given your water report, it will be very hard to find a fertilizer that will perfectly complement the elements that you already have in your water. Let us see why it is hard to make a fertilizer that contains every required element in perfect proportions. Let us take just nitrogen. Nitrogen can be supplied by many sources: potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, Urea, ammonium nitrate. If you use potassium nitrate then it increases potassium also whereas urea does not. It seems simple in this case, but when you have to achieve a certain NPK ratio, and then Ca and Mg and then the micro-nutrients it becomes a tough puzzle. Even the source of nitrogen is a puzzle. A nitrate source is considered better than an ammonium source. Urea, ammonium based, that is a very popular and the cheapest nitrogen source is great for plants when applied correctly at the right time. As a by product, it acidifies soil (probably a good thing in some cases) and at worst it can can cause ammonium toxicity. All Miracle gro formulation are urea based because it is the cheapest source of nitrogen. Miracid just has more of that urea. Foliage Pro is nitrate based but more expensive. Nitrate source encourages tighter growth as opposed to Urea. But many people love the effects of Urea on their plants. To top that of, using Urea for nitrogen makes it a lot easier to add other (micro) nutrients. But unlike Foliage pro, no one else even bothers to address the micro-nutrient part of the puzzle. I think MG fertilizers do not have Ca. Some claim, that in most parts the water is alkaline (hard) and already has enough Ca and perhaps even Mg - so why bother. Most packed soils come already buffered with dolomitic lime anyway. But I often water with collected rainwater so I bother that I am leaching away many nutrients. I have many plants in 511 and gritty type mixes that are devoid of nutrients. My water is neutral and relatively low TDS of about 110-150 (means low in Ca and Mg). Foliage Pro is my go to fertilizer. I do also use MG Shake and Feed for annuals in pots....See More
rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
2 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
2 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
2 years ago
prairiemoon2 z6b MA
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a) thanked prairiemoon2 z6b MA
cearbhaill (zone 6b Eastern Kentucky)
last yearlast modified: last yearrouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a) thanked cearbhaill (zone 6b Eastern Kentucky)
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