I will have a regular depth refrig, recessed into the wall. The cabinet that will go over the refrig will be pulled out 3" from the wall so that it will line up with the front of the refrig for easier access. I actually asked my KD about pull-out shelves for in the cabinet above the refrigerator (and for the upper part of the tall cabinet next to the refrigerator). He didn't think it made sense because when you pulled it out all you would see was the bottom of the shelf, but if I have to stand on a chair to reach things in that upper cabinet anyway, doesn't it make sense to put pullout shelves in there so I can more easily reach the stuff on the back of the shelves? I thought it did, but I let it drop. Maybe I should have kept trying to convince him that it was a good idea? Patti Here is a link that might be useful:

After looking at the photo again (it's so dark that I can't be sure), I fear that you have a MAJOR design flaw. The only refrigerator that is going to work in that corner is a single door one that hinges on the right. Functionally, that is going to be a real PIA. A French door/ side by side refrigerator is not going to work. You'll not be able to open the doors wide enough for the bins to pull out. The refrig & oven cabinets need to be swapped, with the ovens going next to the wall. And make sure that the door casing isn't a problem with the oven doors opening. (Don't think this will be a problem because of the cab face frame; also, it looks like open oven doors would extend out far enough for that to be a problem. )

bbtrix, You're right about what I left out. I should have included the opposite wall in my posted layout but idk how to indicate a stud-bay pantry and pull-down table in floorplanner. I guess I could just put in a couple of lines with a note. We were still planning to do something like that, although maybe a narrow table with a stool underneath instead of a pull-down table (even though it would technically be in the way of traffic, we can deal with something that protrudes 12" or so). We probably can't do an under-cab MW just yet, as my youngest would probably spill stuff/burn himself, but in a couple years we could do that. I do want a few hooks and a place to put a couple pairs of shoes, but our front is our "main" entrance, or at least it's where we store more stuff. When we come in the back door, we are supposed to bring our shoes to the front, although we don't always do that (me too, not just the kids). We also have a closet and storage baskets in the front, so everything is *supposed* to be carried there. What hangs in the back is my apron and a few fleeces/windbreakers (and snow pants to drip/dry when we have snow but that's been sparse lately). So we need a little space for that, but not a ton. Sometimes I hang my purse in there out of reach of the cat, who finds the leather straps just right for chewing. That said, I am intrigued by the idea of the wall table on that *back wall* under the window in the next plan. If we did that, we could then use the space next to the stud-bay pantry for coats & shoes. And I didn't even know that Ikea made a fold-down table. I like the sound of a $40 table a lot better than a custom one. I wonder if I could put some fun contact paper on it so the whites wouldn't clash. That second layout is close to what I thought was The One, but several people here talked me out of having the fridge along that opposite wall next to the DR door. Even one of the people who originally suggested it changed her mind. Strong words were used. lol. I think I have officially abandoned that one. But this definitely gives me more to think about. Thank you so much!

Be aware that it's not just the door/door hinge that has to be considered; the door's handle must also be taken into account when ensuring there is space to open the door(s) fully. If the handle hits the wall first, it doesn't matter what the hinge allows/door itself does -- it will stop (and, possibly, ding/dent the wall). So, be sure you know for certain that the refrigerator door plus handle will allow you to open the door(s) > 90 degrees (to allow easy access to the interior as well as allow the easy removal of all the bins and shelves). E.g., in the refrigerator Kim K links to above, note the width needed when the doors are open 90 degrees: 41-11/16", not 36". I recommend a minimum of 6" b/w the refrigerator and the wall in this particular case.