is this indication of Scale disease on a Jasmin?
Alex Taf
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Are these brown legions normal? Jasmin growing in a pot in zone 10. Horticulturist said scale disease but I couldn't get him to say WHY he think so. I am not sure if it is because of the brown legions.
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agoAlex Taf
2 years agoHello @gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
Thanks a million for your reply and the corrections on the spelling of lesions.
Here's what caused my confusio:.
I sent the following pics from a DIFFERENT Jasmin to the horticulturist who visited my place a year ago. These pics lead him to believe there is scale and also lack of water. But he didn't say WHAT in the pics caused him to believe presence of scale. I just assumed the lesions are the indication. I lost one Jasmin last year and now the Jasmin next to it seems to be dying.
Per his instruction, I added 3 in 1 Rose Food and been watering much more. Also removed a couple of the pavers to give it more space.
But then I started seeing the same lesions on my other Jasmins, hence my post here.
Here are the pics I sent him:
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Trying to bonsai a jasmine from cuttings
Comments (2)Hi there I'm not a bonsai person or anything, but I did come across your post while searching for info on turning my jasmine cuttings (that are being rooted now) into a bonsai. While I don't have bonsai experience, I do have a lot of experience with Arabian and Winter Jasmine plants. I have some info that may be of some help to you. First, identification. Are you absolutely sure that is a jasmine specimen? The reason I ask is because only one Jasmine that I know of has rose-shaped double blooms and that is the Arabian Jasmine (Jasminum Sambac) - primarily the Grand Duke of Tuscany Arabian Jasmine. The blooms on the Arabians are shaped much differently from the ones you pictrued. The petals are much more compact and rounded. The blooms usually only reach an inch or two in diameter. Those flowers look much bigger. I'm pretty sure I know what your mom has, though, is a Gardenia. Google the plant and look at the images - see if it matches up to what your mom has. Next, lets talk about rooting. If you're trying to root a "hardwood" cutting, you'll need to change your method of rooting. Hardwoods don't usually root in water. They like soil to root. Also, you'll get best results if you use tip cuttings and a rooting hormone powder on the ends that you stick in the soil. Just yesterday I pruned my Grand Duke Arabian Jasmine plant and set 12 tip cuttings to root. A tip cutting is the end of a branch that has a leaf bud. You don't want to cut up by the bud, but go down a few inches (maybe 4 to 6 inches) and make your cut. Then strip all but top most two leaves and the bud. You'll want to have your rooting medium ready so you can just pop the cutting in the pot - you don't want to let too much time pass between cutting and potting. I use a peat moss and vermiculite mixture and a 4 inch pot. Don't pack the rooting mix, leave it loose. Then poke a hole in it a few inches deep. Take your prepared cutting and dip it about an inch or two into the rooting hormone powder. Tap off the excess and gently put it into the hole you made in the rooting medium. Water the daylights out of the pot until it is fully saturated. Then place the pot with the cutting on a tray with about an inch or more depth. For the next few weeks, just add water to the tray when it gets dry. If it truly is an Arabian Jasmine, you'll want to keep it in an area with a near constant temperature between 60 and 70 degrees for it to root. Lastly, your critter. That, my friend, looks like scale. You can google Scale Pest and see what you're dealing with. Most likely the critter came with the cutting. They're easy to miss as they are really well camouflaged. Once they attach to your plant, they're really hard to get rid of so eliminate it with extreme prejudice! See this Garden Web post about Scale insects http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg0409431925853.html and you'll see what I mean. Whatever you do, do not let that little sucker survive. Check any plant that has come in contact with your cuttings to be sure that the critters didn't move on to them as well. (or worse yet, come from one of your other plants!) You might want to check your mom's plant to see if it has an infestation. If it does, the Scale insects could kill it. She may want to take action as it is a lovely plant. The questions relating to the bark, branches and fungus are probably because the cuttings are dying/dead and decaying as they weren't meant to be rooted in water. Try again with fresh cuttings using the info I suggested above. I found some really good videos that helped me get started propagating from cuttings on Youtube. Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb Forums - Can You Truly Get Rid of Scales?...See MoreWARNING: Winter jasmine/ jasminum nudiflorum
Comments (35)Thomas extolled the Winter Jasmine in his 1957 book, Color in the Winter Garden, illustrated by himself. "...a place should be kept for the yellow winter jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum. This plant is among the first half-dozen I would put in any garden, if for no other reason than that it provides flowers for the house from October to April regularly and abundantly. Picked in bud they invariably open well and a succession can thereby be maintained. Yellow jasmine is the very centre around which gather all the delights of the temperate world mentioned in these pages. Brought by that great seeker Robert Fortune from China in 1844, it has increased in popularity until it is the most commonly planted of all our winter shrubs. It seems to thrive anywhere, but the longest and best shoots come from a cool north wall. As many as possible of these should be left on the plant; they will provide the best future-flowering shoots and do not look so well in the house as the twiggy, branching pieces. The removal of the latter will provide ideal pruning."...See Moreazalea disease question
Comments (2)Lace bugs usually cause whitish specks on the upper surface of leaves and dark spots varnish-like on the bottom Yellow mottling on the upper surface of leaves and black sooty mold and transparent insects on the bottom are symptoms of Azalea Whitefly (Pealius azaleae.) and Rhododendron Whitefly (Dialeurodes chittendeni.). These may also cause the following symptoms: Small white spots on the underside of leaves and small white flies on under-surface of leaves is also an indication in infestation of Azalea Whitefly (Pealius azaleae.) and Rhododendron Whitefly (Dialeurodes chittendeni.). They are more prevalent on certain varieties and on plants grown in protected areas. These small white flying insects look like an aphid with wings and suck on the underside of foliage, leaving white spots where it has been. Heavy infestations cause the margins of terminal leaves to cup. These infested leaves will eventually turn yellowish and appear wilted. The lower leaves become covered with honeydew, followed by sooty mold (a black coating). To check for the presence of whiteflies, shake the terminals of white azaleas to flush out adult whiteflies which look like tiny white moths. Examine the lower surfaces of leaves for the presence of nymphs, which are flat, yellowish green, and resemble scale insects. All stages occur on the under sides of leaves. This whitefly is usually limited to varieties of the snow azalea, Rhododendron mucronatum. If the infestation is light, little or no plant symptoms are evident, and if beneficial insects are present, spray the undersides of leaves with insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil at the 2%summer rate. If the infestation is heavy use a registered residual insecticide such as Malathion, Diazinon or Orthene. Dick Murcott had a simple remedy to control the numbers of white flies. He would hang pieces of stiff plastic or 12" square metal sheets painted with a bright yellow/orange paint and then covered with petroleum jelly or any clear, sticky material. The white flies will fly to the colored material and get stuck in the sticky stuff!...See MoreQuestion About Die Back Disease
Comments (11)Thanks for the link Luis. That is what my leaves are doing before they get crispy brown. They look wilted, as if they needed water, and then dry up. Eventually, I can then break the twig off. I may have injured the new growth when I planted the newer camellia. I've also planted a small Tama No Ura that I broke a dead twig off. It's easy to bump new growth. However, all these camellias came from the same source, and I'm not sure who this camellia nursery gets their stock from. I suspect a variety of places. It makes me wonder. I also discovered in my web searches that there had been a problem with camellias coming from Monrovia at one time, and that there had been a quarantine. Perhaps some Florida nursery stock got contaminated and is spreading something. However, I do not want to blame this local nursery for anything that may not even be remotely their issue. Once infected, is the plant always infected, or can it be pruned away quickly enough? In the case of my Rutledge, I did go ahead and dig a section of the roots and pulled up enough to look at the roots. This probably hasn't done this bush much good, but it may be very ill anyway. One thing I discovered is that there was a half inch diameter root mingled with this camellia's root from a Drake Elm we had growing 25 feet or so away. The Drake Elm was removed about a year ago, as we were concerned about hurricaine issues, our septic system, and the foundation of the house. Some of the elm roots keep sprouting and I have to keep after them, but I'm hoping some of them are dying. This may be a factor in the decline of this camellia, although the ones next to it planted at the same time are fine. Lady Vansittart is still the picture of health, but she may be a stronger camellia. The other thing that I saw, although I didn't actually dig them up extensively, is that many of the roots surrounding the trunk are a reddish color, while some of the ones further extending from the rootball are still white. I'm wondering if this is root rot, or is this a normal coloration? The soil was not soggy at all. We obviously have sandy soil here in Florida, even with ammendments mixed in. The soil was still a nice mixture of sand and the compost/ peat mix that had been broken down. I did read somewhere that camellias can get root rot even if growing conditions are ideal. We have been extremely dry and haven't had rain in 2 months. I irrigate, but it isn't the same. I would still think this camellia would have adapted. I am worried about soil contamination, and am wondering if another camellia can be planted in the same spot. I can't find much detailed information anywhere. I don't feel our coopperative extension has much knowledge in this particular area. About all I get from them is the typical "canned" answers. So far, I have gotten the healthiest, most beautiful camellias from Erinon Nursery in Plymouth, Forida. I won't be purchasing from anywhere else now....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agoScale is typically a small sucking insect sheltered from predators by a raised shell.......sort of like a limpet :-) If the lesions are flat = no scale (although it is possible they could have been present earlier). Scale is also usually indicated by the presence of a sweet, sticky substance (honeydew) that will coat leaves and stems and attract ants.
This is a close up of what scale looks like:
See the lumps/bumps? They should scrape off easily with your fingernail if scale.I would agree that watering may be the primary concern here. Enlarge the open area surrounding the base of the plants and give then a long, slow soaking.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agoAlex Taf
2 years agoAlex Taf
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agolindac92
2 years agoAlex Taf
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago@lindac92 thanks for your advice. Will do strong wash tonight, when it's cool.
Here are some pics I just took.
Notice the jasmin further down the driveway are appear to be doing fine. But they are a DIFFERENT type of Jasmin too.
Also see weird things, like tumors sticking out in the pic below. I put red circles around them.
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5