I just got this table- absolutely stunning. The pictures on the website don't do it justice. I got the natural color and it does seem to have protection- it's smooth with a shine- probably a wax. It's not as rustic as I thought it would be (which is awesome). I do have a kitchen table which was finished with a powder coat from a different company. It didn't have any finish on it. I did put a carnuba wax on that which has lasted over a year with twice a day wet wipe down. I have to say that the kitchen table looks better than when I got it. The patina is beautiful. it's the look that I was after. I think if you go for the rustic look then go with the rustic look. Don't fret. I know I was getting wrapped up in staining etc initially but it didn't happen and any little mark/blemish on it is from my family and from having loving memories around the table. Who wants to live a pristine sterile life? Not me. Enjoy your furniture don't keep it so precious. Be well everyone.

I do all sorts of wood finishing so I've mixed my own combos. I don't think I'm familiar w/your particular brand. why don't you ask him for a quarter cup of each color, and play around w/it your self? do it on your extra wood. and who cares if he's grumpy?! it's your friggen money and you're hiring him. If he doesn't like, tell him to f off and hire someone else! try the dark walnut and the gray,,,I used it myself on this flower I did. the outer, darker petal is that mix. But I used Varathane and didn't measure anything! just a dip in one and dip in the other. The dark top is actually Spiced Walnut,,,I think, from General finishes. that's actually a very nice shade. when you test, give a coat of poly to get the true look. Just play around w/the tints and see what you like. You have plenty of time. Dust is going to be there, regardless of whether it's dark or light! Direct sun rays will also show it more readily. If you stay in a medium tone, you should be find w/the kids and such. a matte finish will also help.

Minwax has a colour called gunstock I think. That is a nice brown on oak floors. I think ours may have been white oak but it was a pleasing mid brown that made the grain in the oak look really beautiful. I think I would stay away from the grey flooring trend unless you can find a very light grey that work well for you. Gorgeous kitchen you've got going there. Please post photos as you progress through the project. Looks like its going to be gorgeous. I especially like the upper cabinets with the square glass doors. Did you wire those to have lights in them? If not, now is the time.

Gray is one of the toughest colours to get right. It is SUPER EASY to get it wrong. The inspiration photo you showed of the super light, slightly white floor, is MUCH easier when using Bona Nordic Seal. Your wood is already a close match...the Nordic Seal adds a snick more 'white' to the floor to offer that Scandinavian look. Guys who work mainly with Minwax have a hard time switching to Bona. And the FINISH is what matters for gray. A cheap oil based finish will turn ORANGE. A cheap oil modified will turn sunshine yellow. And gray is anything but it is NOT orange and it is NOT yellow. Find out the FINISH brand FIRST...and work backwards to the colour you want. Worse comes to worse you can always finish your floor in a high-end water based polyurethane (use a clear sealant to stop the tannin pull that white oak is famous for) to achieve a floor that is the natural 'raw' look that you have right now. Your wood is only a heart beat away from the colour in your inspiration photo. Loba 2K Supra AT (using WS EasyPrime) could offer a magnificent 'raw wood' finish without adding stain. The Bona Nordic Seal + HD Traffic will offer a slightly whiter version of your floor + SUPER TOUGH finish. But these high-end options have a slightly higher price tag and the systems the refinishers need to LEARN make this difficult for some homeowners to take and for many refinishers to offer. Lets start with the name of the FINISH the pro is using on your floor.