Replace my Rose with an easier plant
Comments (11)
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ten plants to replace climbing rose rosette infected roses
Comments (3)I don't agree with all of the choices. Clematis, yes, but honey suckle and morning glory are invasive and considered weeds here. And the only thing I know of that's heavier, stronger and more able to take down a structure than a full grown climbing rose is a full grown wisteria!...See MoreEasier way to plant through clay?
Comments (7)I don't think your respective ages have anything to do with it -- I do suspect your neighbors either were lucky enough to have better soil in the beds or did considerably more preparation work. I will always recommend the lasagna method to make a long-term improvement in the soil, but your plants need help at once. Their problem is likely that clay soil does not drain well, and -other than bog-lovers- most plants want drainage, else their roots don't get enough air and eventually either rot or succumb to a disease. I hate to say this, but it's better done now than later: dig up the plants, remove most of the good soil from the hole. Next, widen the holes to the expected root-spread of the mature plant (that means that a bush which will be about 3' wide when grown up, will do best if the soil is 'fixed' to a matching width of 3 feet). BTW, this isn't true for every perennial, just the majority of them! You can mix the clay stuff into the good soil as long as you have 3 times as much good as there is clay. Now, put down pea gravel to about 3 inches depth of in the bottom of the 12" deep hole. Amend the removed soil with a heaping shovel-full of perlite added to each wheelbarrow load of soil (that's about a double-handful of perlite to a laundry-basket sized pile of soil) and/or add gypsum (as recommended on the bag). Both perlite and gypsum will aid drainage and help prevent the soil from clumping into clay-ey lumps. Now you can re-plant and replace the soil. You will likely find that the finished bed is higher than the lawn. This is good, because the soil will let excess rain drain onto the lawn -- and if the bed is beside the house, be sure that the surface slopes *away* from the house. I highly recommend using 3" of an organic mulch around the plants: it will prevent weeds, help the soil retain moisture through dry spells, and act somewhat like a sponge in holding water for slow release rather letting downpours wash your good soil into the ditch - and the mulch itself eventually turns into a nutritious soil. Ah, and be sure your plants are suitable for your climate, soil, and available sunlight! Shade-lovin plants won't do well in full sun, and sun-lovers won't do well in shade, no matter how good the soil. You can plant bulbs (such as lilies) now and enjoy them for years with little more effort. Choose un-fussy annuals for ease of maintenance, and intersperse with zonal geraniums [pelagoniums] for a great show of bloom by very easy-to-live-with plants. Water the plants any week that there isn't an inch of rain, and smile back at your neighbors....See MoreNeed plant suggestion-compact, fragrant easier than gardenias
Comments (9)Gigi, I'm not the expert here, but do know that generally, if you want to put Camillias on the corners of the porch in your photo, you are gong to have to get further away from the porch. Most of these plants get pretty large. Generally speaking, Camellas are wininterish bloomers. Japonicas are springish bloomers, and Sesanquas are generally fallish bloomers. Crosses with Camellia and Japonica are usually winterspring bloomers, and most all of the Camellia Sesanquas are fall bloomers. If you are planning to cut the trees to expose the limbs under the cover, you will need to let the bushes get at least as large as the minimum size you want the finished plant to be. That way the limb structure will be established and you will know which to cut and which to leave. After the cut you will have to keep any little suckers picked off until the bush decides you really mean business about leaving its lower branches bare. It will continue to grow in height, and the drip line will continue to expand, so you will need clearance from the house. Here's a photo of two Sesanquas in my front yard that I cut may years ago. We have folks drive down our dead end street to see them when they are in bloom. I have flood lights under each to shine up into the canopy at night, It makes a right pretty show. Bil...See MoreHow do I improve the soil once my roses are planted?
Comments (50)Civil Servant, You have struck gold with all the excellent advice given by so many well informed Roses Forum Rosarians. My comments basically reinforce what they are sharing with you. Fish emulsion stinks, literally. It has its good uses in some cases. It is mostly nitrogen, which you are already applying in a sufficient amount if you opt for the Miracle Grow Pellets or another well balanced rose fertilizer, organic or non. Too much nitrogen is not good: weak, over abundant, lush, and disease/insect prone growth at the expense of flower production, is the outcome. Ditto for blood meal. Be mindful of those animal product fertilizers in light of their critter attracting nature. Even if you live in the city, alley cats can be drawn to your garden, and they will not leave your garden without voiding. Then there are urban wildlife, particularly raccoons and opossums, even skunks, coyotes and coywolves. You don't want to attract them. I do like seaweed fertilizer as an occasional foliar feed because of the multitude of minerals it contains, but it is not really critical to use it. Its use is more like dessert in comparison to a well balanced main meal. Also, there are no odor issues....See More
Marie Tulin
2 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agovina538
2 years agoI live in mid Niagara Peninsula, close to Niagara Falls, Ontario.
The rose bush that is departing is maximum 3 ft wide & tall. I have an Iris behind it that I don't want blocked by a shrub when it's blooming in late May. I looked up Little Quickfire Hydrangea and it looks beautiful (pretty, long flowering) but I'm afraid it is too big for the spot.
In pic, see how bad the rose looks - flopping flowers, rabbits have been pruning it (but that's a separate problem). There is a serviceberry tree to the left of the Liatris. I just cut back the tall bearded Iris behind the rose (sun is shining on it). I can move the Liatris, small box shrub, and white Iris. Immediately behind the Rose Campion is a young Creme de Mint Dogwood (max. 4 ft tall & wide) that will reach the cut back iris & Coneflowers next year. To the right of the Coneflowers are more Coneflowers, Peony, Day Lilies, Daisies. The Creme de Mint (so pretty in winter) is my "large shrub, filler, anchor" and the rose replacement needs to be smaller with green leaves.
I was thinking of Bobo Hydrangea and am listening to suggestions about Little Quick Fire Hydrangea. Someone living in my area growing Little Quick Fire - how big will it get?
Thank you, everyone!
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
2 years ago
lovemycorgi z5b SE michigan
2 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agovina538
2 years agoKen is correct - the Japanese Beetles are the biggest problem. And correct again is that I don't want to keep pruning a shrub to fit. Moving plants to give a shrub room is no problem.
Here are 2 pics - one looking from the right, one from the left. I'm pretty satisfied with the right half of the garden (the daisies need to be divided). But the rose was supposed to be a full, lush shrub and it's not. I need something with more presence on the left. As I said before - the tall bearded iris (behind rose) has been cut back. And the Creme de Mint Dogwood (behind Rose Campion) needs to grow up again - it fills in the whole centre are.
I am happy to move the smaller plants on the left side, I'm planning to "re-do" the variegated iris. (The empty areas in front seems to be the bunny cafeteria)
NHBabs z4b-5a NH