Anyone successfully store their fruit and not get gnats??
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
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Has anyone successfully wintersown impatiens in zone 6?
Comments (15)I live reasonably close to the lake North suburb of Chicago, zone 5 / last frost date is May 15/ and have shady garden, most people usually start planting out their begonia, coleus and impatiens on Memorial Day weekend or possibly a week or two earlier if the spring is fine, which is not often. Yes, I can WS many annuals including impatiens but they would not start blooming at least until mid July and even then it takes them a while to look gorgeous and bushy. So I would get gorgeous plants by end of August- Sept and then first Oct frost will do them in. Kind of not worth it doing for me. So I start my annuals indoor, coleus and begonias are started already, tuberous begonias I start in Dec- Jan. I started pansy/ viola in Dec and they are pretty much getting ready to bloom. They are outside in enclosed Florida porch under plastic wrap, getting their share of our chilly weather. I will set them out in couple of weeks into protected spot and will plant out containers in early April. Pansy can take a light frost and I could always bring in few containers when the weather turns real nasty. I will start impatiens shortly, mid March or so.This year my snowdrops opened as usual on Feb 20 so spring is not going to be early in my neck of woods....See Morehelp with fruit flies/fungus gnats in compost
Comments (45)kimmsr, Disagree with you, simply based on experience. I used to have lots of grubs in my very moist compost before using BT. Rarely see a grub of any kind anymore, using the same methods/materials with the addition of BT. http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/biocontrol/pathogens/bacteria.html States: Primary hosts: caterpillars; some BEETLE and fly larvae. Also states: "Over 90 species of naturally occurring, insect-specific (entomopathogenic) bacteria have been isolated from insects, plants, and the soil, but only a few have been studied intensively". So I give credit to BT. I put some good soil in my new compost piles, which has had applications of all commercial BT strains, so I can't say which one (if any) are at work against grubs. Doesn't matter to me. So I give credit to BT, et al. - and don't have names for the other 86 or so insect-specific (entomopathogenic) bacteria spoken of, OR other such non-specific bacteria that may not have been identified yet. http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2500.html : 'Grubs' is a 'generic' term, used for larvae of a large group of beetles called SCARABS. The most important species are: Japanese beetle, Popillia japonica Newman; May or June beetles, Phyllophaga spp.; northern and southern masked chafers, Cyclocephala spp.; and black turfgrass ataenius, Ataenius spretulus (Haldeman). Other, more localized, white grub pests are: European chafer, Rhizotrogus majalis (Razoumowsky); the Asiatic garden beetle, Maladera castanea (Arrow); and the green June beetle, Cotinis nitida (Linnaeus). Option 4: Biological Control - Milky Diseases - Several strains of the bacterium, Bacillus popilliae (bacterium is extracted from Japanese beetle grubs and is most active against this species), have been found that attack white grubs...Unfortunately, recent studies in Kentucky and Ohio indicate that the currently available products have NOT PERFORMED WELL IN OUR SOILS. (caps are mine). Goes on to say that parasitic nematodes are a up to 80% effective, but "...do not appear to be effective from one season to the next". So you can take exception with me if you want to - your opinion is just as valid as mine - but now let's hear from YOU about your EXPERIENCE with grubs... Robert...See MoreHas anyone successfully grown apricots in zone 3?
Comments (20)Nice looking plant Konrad. Sorry it died. I have a Prunus armeniaca var. mandshurica seedling from fruit collected at Olds College in Olds Alberta in 1980 or 81. I started out with 5 or 6 plants but ended up with one survivor. That tree is now about 12 ft tall and partially healthy as it is in a very tough growing area. We have had one batch of fruit enough for jam once. The problem is 3 fold. Early bloom is always an issue since the blossoms can get frozen so easily. The second issue for me is no pollinator nearby. I have an acquaintance in Saskatoon who has a relatively young tree which has given fruit but she has the same problem and we intended to trade blooming branches last spring but did not get it done. I would like to graft from her tree onto mine with one branch and see how that might help. The fruit was of good flavour especially for jam. A little tart and quite unlike the commercials. If you can provide somewhat of a micro climate any of the ones out of the more Northern Nurseries should work. They do take time to get to producing age and you should have 2 for best fruit set. I suspect some kind of early insect control would help as they are so early but the bugs are still there!...See MoreAnyone having a problem with fungus gnats?
Comments (36)Hey Jinny...I don't blame you for not using peat in your mixes..I refuse to use it in many too, especially all my plants I like in the gritty..I didn't realize you said that you use the gritty mix only now, my bad...Good for you)) I think asked if it was bad to use the 'mix', 'Natures Care' with feather meal and stuff...I just wanted to encourage you to use pure 'peat' since any other additives could cause a gnat issue if you were to make a 5.1.1 again...Keep up the good job with the gritty !! If anything, everyone should use the gritty since it does not weigh as much as they think it does when wet....Believe it or not, sometimes I will make the 5.1.1 without peat substituting 'pumice' or 'surface' instead and it is awesome!!! All my Hoya thrive in this and many of my citrus.... Jersey, I bring both the gritty and 5.1.1 mix plants into the house..It must be me, but I have pots full of the gritty and the 5.1.1 and they both seem to weigh the same to me...I don't make a mix ahead of time and store it for more than a week or so...I am afraid it will decompose too much by the time I use it. I will actually soak my bark for a few days but without the peat..Then I use that damp bark and mix it with the peat and perlite as needed to keep it as fresh as possible.... I love how your tree looks in that pot and the color of that mix..Good job..By the way, I had no idea all of us had FIGS in common.. I think we are all too much alike in the plants department! I just finished picking 20 ripe Black Mission, as sweet as they could be...What kills me, is that some can have a problem in one area and some of us nothing in another..I never saw a bee go for mines...Crazy and over 27 varieties......See More- 5 years ago
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