It was around $1800. It's more than normal because I got the glass extra tall, extra thick and got the Shower Guard treatment. I probably could have just got the standard height. The main reason I had extra height on the old doors was so I didn't bump my head on the top rail. Since there is no longer a top rail, this doesn't matter any more. Maybe the extra height will cut down on any overspray outside the shower. The Shower Guard doesn't work the way I expected it would. I expected the water to just run off in sheets with no beading or spots, but their is plenty of beading. There are no spots "sticking" to the glass, and they guarantee that water spots will never etch permanently into the glass and it won't develop pitting that makes the shower door glass get harder to clean as it ages. it still takes some elbow grease to get it spotless. I am just not super impressed yet because I thought it would be easier to keep clean than it is. If it doesn't get any harder to clean in a few years than it is today, then I'll be impressed with it at that time since I'm not going to squeegee the glass between cleanings since it isn't supposed to be needed as long as you clean it regularly (scrub it clean of soap scum on weekends etc.) I don't have any more tracks to clean and it's also easier to clean since I not longer have a section of the doors that overlap each other, so I like it much better overall.

To all reading this post: First of all, the quoted post should be attributed to Brickeyee. My sincerest apologies for my error. Here's a copy-and-paste version with the relevant section. Posted by brickeyee (My Page) on Thu, Jan 31, 08 at 19:46 .... The track should also NEVER be attached to a header in a weight bearing wall. A secondary header should be installed with about a 1/2 inch clearance below the structural header. If the header bows (and they all do to some extent) it can cause problems with the track. If the wall is NOT weight bearing the header will not be loaded and you CAN omit the second header. Decker, You asked what I meant by a secondary header. The real answer is I don't know; I'm just parrotting what I've read. But the term was used when describing 2x4(?)as something to which the pocket door track would be attached. BTW, this door installation is not a DIY project. I'm just trying to second-guess potential problems in construction. Again, I apologize if I've opened a can of worms.

If that's dry rot I see at the bottom of your frame, its got to go, one way or another. A skilled carpenter (not a "door installer") could cut out the bad bottom section of the stud and replace it with minimal damage to the stucco, but that may be a moot issue. I'm replacing a slider in a stucco wall too and have found that you have to be very lucky to find door with a rough opening size that will just slip into to the old frame without a wide band of trim around the door. That will really be a negative for appearance so we're adding $400 to our budget to cover stucco repair. Most major window mfrs make patio doors in replacement sizes (Integrity does not) and the use of the nailing fin is preferred but optional. If not used, it's bent back out of the way or cut off.

I have a patio door with a single sidelight the same width as one of the patio doors. It looks like a 3 panel setup but only two of the doors open. I think they are 36" wide but would have to double check. So a bit wider that your existing opening. Looks similar to the door in the picture but i have two doors that open.