duchamp, I checked my clippings, I didn't save it and the post is so old it's dropped off the bathroom forum. Are you looking for how to build a niche (my husband just built it to my specification for overall height and height from the floor between the studs in the wall) or just the inspiration photo? It wasn't a "how to," just a photo which I ultimately adapted because I couldn't get it to work for me as it was. That was a bit stressful initially because I wanted it to be just that way, but I realized I could make it my way. I had the general concept but I couldn't recall how the glass shelf was supported so that it wasn't obvious, that's why I wanted the picture; I wanted to do it "right." The inspiration photo's magazine rack was hmmm....made with painted strips of wood, more country I think and I knew that wasn't going to get made and found the Pottery Barn rack for a great price on eBay. It was just easier to pop the purchased rack in and I like the final result better. I purchased a tempered glass shelf cut to my dimensions online, I'm not sure if the inspiration photo used tempered glass but I thought it would be safer even though I don't have kids running around. When it first was installed all I could notice was how the greenish tint to the glass edge clashed with the green paint on the wall, I don't notice it anymore. We ended up supporting the shelf (because I never could figure it out from the picture) with small, square dowels painted to blend. Again, I had had a different thing in mind with hardware but I guess I was dreaming that that existed so we needed to adapt. It's funny how the project caused so much fuss at the time because I wanted perfect and with all the adaptations I thought I was going away from perfect but of course in the end, it's perfect!

Thank you everyone SO MUCH for all the answers. Sorry I haven't responded sooner, but have been working lots of hours this week. In answer to some of your questions, The clips on my mirror are metal and seem to be pretty flat. The mirror is not glued to the wall--it's actually propped in my LR because I was stripping wallpaper in the bathroom. Arrrggghh!. kmcg: Thank you for the Lowes's suggestion. I had looked, but didn't find them--I was looking in the molding section. So, I'll go look with all the WTs and shades. I had looked at mirror mates too, but I wanted something wider and more ornate and thought I could get exactly what I wanted with a frame. The mirror in the bathroom fits almost wall to wall, so I think the only way I can attach a frame is to glue it. For those of you who have used mirror mates or wood molding, did you notch out the wood where the clips on the mirror were?

Do you know how it's attached, and do you care what condition it's in when you're done? Some mirrors are attached only with screwed-in clips, and with those you just unscrew the clips starting at the top and lift the mirror out of the clips at the bottom. That's the ideal. More likely it's glued to the drywall and it can be easy or nightmarish to remove depending on how liberal the installers were with the glue. Two or even three people are needed for this operation. If you don't care if it breaks, cover the entire surface of the mirror with at least one layer of clear contact paper or duct tape; if you're hoping to save it, use 3" wide masking tape as it's somewhat easier to remove than contact paper or duct tape. Then pick up a roll of braided, uncoated wire at the hardware store and cut a length twice the width of the mirror. Piano wire also works if you can get it. Put down a heavy dropcloth, wear gloves, long pants, long-sleeved shirts, sturdy shoes, and safety glasses (no, regular eyeglasses do not count). Two people stretch the wire between them and slip it down behind the mirror, then start pulling it back and forth in a sawing motion, pulling downward at the same time. The third person should stand ready to catch the mirror as it begins to move away from the wall. If there's a lot of glue this is a slow process, if there isn't much this can go very quickly. If the mirror butts against walls on both sides (is in a niche) and you can't get a wire down behind it, you'll probably have to break the mirror. After taping, use a rubber mallet to gently break the mirror into pieces beginning at the top corners. As you break up enough glass that it starts pulling away from the wall, use a utility knife to cut the tape so you can remove that section and drop it into a cardboard box inside a trash bag. Some sections won't want to pull off the wall and a wide-bladed, rigid taping knife is useful for wiggling down behind that section to pry it off. The condition of the wall afterwards can vary from patches of glue on the surface of the drywall (cut/scrape away the paper with the goo on it and skimcoat with joint compound) to big holes where the mirror pulled the drywall right apart (happens more often at the bottom as the weight of the mirror falls forward)! For the latter, if they're bigger than about fist-size, even up the holes by cutting them back to the closest studs with a drywall saw and patching in new drywall. Smaller holes can be patched with rigid metal-mesh drywall patch kits from the hardware store or home improvement center (IMO they work better than the flexible fiberglass ones).

In the picture, black is the current layout. Green is the change if only shower was made bigger and one door would be eliminated. Red is a complet demo, removing the wall section between two toilets. All the water lines from upstairs are in the section of the wall that is between two toilets so removing this wall would require a major move of water lines to the side and there would have to be a section of wall kept behind new toilet and vanity. The door from master would have to be framed and move to the left as a pocket or barn door. The drowing is disproportionate. It is all very cramped in there Current shower is only 26"x26". But may be replacing vanity for a wall hung vanity in the larger bathroom would change the feel. It will all have to be torn down and replaced including removing subfloors as they are rotten. So either remodel will be a lot of work. What should we do?