Best way is to look at both! Compare the features, shelves, lighting, temperature controls and readouts. I guess none of the new Jenn-airs have the features my 2006, 48" built in JA has? It has crank up/down shelves in both fridge and freezer, it has 3 different temp settings in the fridge compartment, (Meat Keeper, Chrisper and main fridge), all digital readout and control. It is well lit, both the fridge and freezer. It uses the variable speed compressor, which according to an "Old Post", all whirlpool made fridges do, (alto I would double check that). It has been trouble free except the icemaker falied after 5 years, (heater), a replacement cost me about $135 and took me 10 minutes to change it. Just about all reviews, here in GW, are positive about the KA fridges, so either should suffice, just compare the features and if they differ from the KA to the JA, are they important enough to YOU, to pay the extra money?" Compare warranties too!!! I had originally thought I wanted a 42 inch built in fridge, but I can't tell you How HAPPY we are, that I found an extra 6 inches for the 48", something You "May" want to consider! Good luck with your pending decision!! Gary I

Adding to the good advice given above, I'd suggest that you search the many hood discussions here and I especially recommend posts by kaseki. You will find that what you are considering is actually counterproductive to your goals. To summarize briefly: First, if you are putting cabinets over that 48" range top, read the installation manual for your rangetop. On most rangetops, cooktops and ranges, the manual will specify that bases of the upper cabinets should be at least 30 inches above the stove top. IIRC, some even specify 36". Going lower is considered a fire hazard. Thus, you really can't gain cabinet space over a 48" range/rangetop by using a smaller hood. Second, the effectiveness of ventilation hoods has as much or more to do with hood "capture area" as blower power. If you want to try to make up for poor capture, you need a huge increase in blower force. Think about using a vacuum cleaner. The stronger the blower, the more noise the system will make as you try to suck everything in -- maybe sucking pets and and small children off the floor :>) --- and a very loud roar. Same thing if you put a powerful vent fan in the ceiling. That kind of power utterly defeats your desire for a quiet hood. Third, a huge step-up in blower power means a huge step up in the need for make-up air, and that can and likely will be a major expense. Doesn't matter if your locality does not have codes that require MUA. We're talking the laws of physics here and avoiding backdrafting HVAC, water heaters, fireplaces, etc. Fourth, while a properly sized and designed hood may be larger than you seem to like, it also can be a lot quieter. Consider that there are two sources of noise in hoods: (a) the noise of the fans and their motors and (b) the air rushing through the baffles/filters and into the ducts. With a properly sized hood, the fans can run lower and slower because the hood enables the capture. Slower fans are quieter.

My Kraftmaid vanity took three weeks and shipped from the Midwest somewhere to Oregon. The hardest part was finding a vanity top! The countertop overhang won't allow you to put the vanity flush against the wall. You can order a filler, but to accomplish what Pal talked about, your mom would need to purposefully push stuff into the opening because there's no opening from the top. I just dusted mine after four years with a cloth-covered stick and it had very little dust. MongoCt recommended recessing the filler about an inch so it disappears. I thought that was a good idea for vanities that have some type of decorative side or leg. I'm a lot younger than your mom and I hate the low drawers. Also, those are deep drawers so it's further to reach. If she has another spot for her daily small items like toothpaste and a brush, she can keep bottles and TP in there.

You can avoid the need for door-swing space by getting drawers on the outsides of the vanity. One possibility that you have not discussed here is to get a trough sink vanity with two faucets. Then you do not have to remodel for resale. If you get a vanity with drawers, you will have accessible towel storage in the bottom deep drawers and storage for smaller items in the upper drawers. Once you remove the wall, you may be able to get a 60" vanity, which will give you many more choices for your vanity. This one is 60" here at Houzz and is one of the few not sold with top and sink, so you may put in any that you choose. The bottom drawers on both sides are double-high, so this vanity has seven drawers!A wide trough sink like this one would technically make this a two-person vanity.And it is small enough that all of the plumbing would fit into the door cabinet part. Really, when a second person is there, often they just need to rinse a tooth brush and spit into the sink or wet a wash cloth while the other is shaving, and this kind of set-up works fine for that. My hubby and I managed that with a single faucet with a swivel mount on a tiny 30" Home Depot Euro-style "belly sink" for years. I don't know what your floor space is going to feel like after you take down the wall, but if you feel you have room to walk around it, they make a matching linen tower. It is 24" wide and 20" deep and 6 ft tall. A linen tower over across from the end of the vanity will keep the vanity area feeling spacious. It is another option instead of having the tall linen tower on the counter looming over you. With all of the drawers you can get in a 60" vanity, do you need the tower? I have a 60" vanity in our main bath now, and it is pretty useless, but that is because it has no drawers at all. As I suggested above, if you are short on floor space, you can have any cabinetry sunk into the wall. Simply have the builder do a header to carry the weight of the stud that needs to be removed, and frame around the opening with a bit of wood trim painted to match the cabinet. You can take the drawer front or door in to the paint shop for a match to be made, or have the trim painted the wall color.