Try General Finishes High Performance Topcoat. I'm experimenting with it on red oak. It very much preserves the natural color of the wood. So much so that I'm wondering how to enhance the grain just a wee bit before I topcoat w/ it. No yellowing (on red oak) whatsoever. General Finishes contact phone # 800-783-8050. They're located in Wisconsin so Central Time Zone. I've called them before & will give them another call for suggestions on slightly enhancing the grain of red oak. It's available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. McFeeley's has the best price that I've found. McFeeley's Oh, the stuff is super easy to apply. (I'm using a foam brush but it's sposed to spray nicely, too.) The only complaints that I've read about it is that it maybe dries too fast. I ordered some extender but haven't tried it yet since I'm only doing small pieces so far. Here is a link that might be useful: General Finishes High Performance Topcoat

I did a finish on white oak once and it looked very similar to that 5% white. I honestly can't remember what I used but the sample on that website looks like what I did. I then clear coated over it. I like the fact that it is an all in one finish and you don't have to clear coat. Maybe if you got some damage down the road you could light sand and apply some more. I think some call this this technique liming oak rather than whitewash not sure though. Your kitchen will look really great with what you are planning.

@eliseharrison The caption in your first says something about being treated with "oil," which is another option for finishing, using Waterlox or another tung-oil based treatment rather than lacquer. An oil treatment that has tung oil as its base like Waterlox won't yellow as much as an oil treatment that has linseed oil as a primary ingredient. These oil finishes have to be re-applied and maintained, but I've done a fair amount of research on them, and Waterlox original finish is what we're planning to do in our kitchen on cherry cabinetry. A few cabinet companies use oil finishes like Waterlox exclusively. It creates a very natural surface, but the ambering and yellowing will still occur over time to an extent even with this method. If you wanted to go with a whitewashed finish, then yes, that might work for you to get the color you want, but it won't look natural. It obscures the depth and sheen of the natural wood if it is done sufficiently to alter the color permanently to obscure the natural ambering of the wood. Some people really like this method and have used it to get the light neutral color they want without going for a total painted finish. Just be sure to view samples in person so you're sure you like it. There is a type of white oak harvested in Europe that has a low tannin content and ages to a neutral, silvery tone, but it is expensive and difficult to obtain in the United States in quantities large enough for cabinetry work. If the budget is generous, you could look into that option with a water-based, non-yellowing lacquer finish to get a natural white wood look.

The raw look of White Oak could work...assuming you have the right GRADE of wood. A White oak floor coated in water based poly (ie. 2 part high priced stuff) MUST HAVE: A. Sealant, or B. Stain White Oak can handle Bona NordicSeal without turning pink. The NordicSeal is both sealant and white frosting on the wood. This can then be finished with Bona Traffic HD (2-3 coats). Your words to your refinisher are: "I like the look of Bona NordicSeal over White oak. I like the Scandinavian look it creates. I do NOT want anything yellow or anything that TURNS yellow on my floor. What would you use to create the look that I want?"