Talk to me about feta...
5 years ago
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Talk to me about irrigation, or tell me where to go!
Comments (2)Jo, I use a drip irrigation system and put it away before freezing temperatures arrive. Parts of it...like the t-tape can be left outdoors but it drastically shortens its life. My garden slopes much more than yours, so I have my drip irrigation set up in zones with ball valves, so I can shut off some sections while irrigating others. Since water tends to flow downhill pretty well, even underground, my higher beds dry out faster than lower ones and need to be watered more often. Also, because they are on the higher south and west ends of the garden, they are more exposed to summer's south winds. Most of the time,, since water does flow underground from our neighbor's higher ground to our south, the lower beds at the north end of the garden have good deep moisture under them for a much longer period of time and often I don't have to irrigate those beds at all until mid-summer or later. To make drip irrigation work in our big,sloping garden, setting up zones has worked better than anything else I've tried. Our lowest temps at our house this winter have been 9, 10 and 11 degrees on several different nights, so I was glad we didn't have any drip lines out exposed to those temperatures. The people who leave their drip irrgation lines in the garden all winter often unhook the lines and situate them so any water left in them can run out. Then they use an air compressor to blow air through them to insure they are dry, and then hook them back together in place to they are ready for spring. I am not certain what they do with the rest of the system, but I imagine that even if they leave the lines themselves in the ground, they take the pressure regulator, filter and other parts and dry them out and store them indoors where they won't freeze and crack. Drip irrigation might not meet your needs if you don't want to put it up every winter, but it might work okay. You can learn more about drip irrigation at the website of Dripworks, which I'll link below. They even have designers who will help you design your drip system if you want them to, free of charge. If you go that route, be sure you tell them about the change in the grade in your garden so they can take that into account. Also, there is an irrigation forum here at GW and I bet the irrigation specialists there would be happy to answer your questions. I agree with Larry that a pressure compensating system likely would work for you. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Dripworks...See MoreEverything You Need To Know About Feta
Comments (11)I think the article was misnamed - there is a lot more to know about feta than what is there, and I did not see anything in it that I did not already know. I did find a link to more info after the end of the first article, which was barely an introduction, much less an "everything" article! I usually buy Bulgarian sheep's milk feta, partly because it is so easy to find, and my biggest problem is deciding which brand to choose. I have to go a bit further to buy Greek feta, but I do not like it any better than the Bulgarian, and the Bulgarian is much cheaper, as the article says. I generally always have feta on hand - I love to mix it in cucumber and tomato salads, especially when I have tomatoes in my back yard, as I do now. I only use Persian cucumbers in that salad. Lars...See Moretalk to me about multi-split ductless heat pumps or alt heating
Comments (52)What about the furnace or oil or gas fueled boiler firing off when when a leak is detected? What about a leak occurring in a utility closed in a kitchen? Will there be a safety device to disable the gas stove? Will all of the safety requirements be resolved, understood, and ready to be deployed by January 1, 2025? Certain locations may have differences to building codes as there are some differences depending on where you live. So the proper answer is to consult a professionally licensed HVAC contractor in your area. For my area I think it will be limited to the box in which the Evap coil sits in, once refrigerant leak is detected it locks out equipment and forces blower to run to dissipate the "mist" if you will. This lock out, once it happens does not reset. Meaning that professional visit will be required to resolve the issue. These kinds of refrigerant leaks are enclosed in the box and dispersing the mist thru the structure aleviates the risk of ignition of these fumes. So don't over blow this Mike, it's mildly flammable with very low possiblity of an ignition. On the exterior condenser if refrigerant sensed, it force runs the condenser fan and locks the compressor out from running. Again once this event is triggered it requires a professional to check it out. ( I don't know if they will do this to the exterior unit as it's outdoors and typically well ventilated enough... but for liability who knows? We can only guess right now.) -------- R22 vs. R410a Vs R470a --------- R22 has been in use since the 1950's, equipment phase out in 2010, dry equipment up until about 2014 or so. Then they produced R22 Freon up until about 2020 when production was finally banned. So that's 70 years of use. R410a was developed in the late 1990's. I grauduated HVAC trade school in early 1996 and only after I graduated did they then start covering it at the trade school. I was exposed to it in 2001 as the large HVAC company I worked for then was a Carrier distributor. So early on in my HVAC career I have dealt with both R22 and R410a. So life of R410a so far has been just over 20 years a far cry from R22 Freon's 70 year reign. (There was a large stock pile of R22 to work thru. Not so with R410a.) R410a is twice the operating pressure of R22. Typical operating pressures R22 75 PSI / 250 PSI R410a 150 PSI / 425 PSI. It's more common with R410a unit for it to be flat of refrigerant. You can not reclaim something that isn't there. (refrigerant leaks, means the refrigerant leaks out.) R470A (also known as RS-53) is a zeotropic mixture consisting of 44 weight% R1234ze(E), 19% R125, 17% R32, 10% carbon dioxide, 7% R134a, and 3% R227ea. It is considered to be a replacement fluid for R410A. R125 is being phased out due to high GWP, R134a is also on the chopping block. Currently R470a is prohibitively expensive if you can even buy it. So you have a builder who doesn't buy refrigerants claiming that something that isn't there is available? From what I see online costs on average of around $1000 a drum for R470a. That's just the cost of refrigerant, not fixing the leak(s), labor, etc. GWP for R470a is estimated around 909 GWP. EPA is cutting to 700 GWP. So it can be easily said R470a will be short lived at best, just based on already known requirements moving forward. So this thought that R470a is going to save your poor AC unit? possibly those in Calfornia, but only because they won't be able to buy R410a after 2030? I think by that time, R470a will probably be an after thought. Due to cost.. as always. As I have said before... cost is what will drive replacements just as before with R22. The cost of R22 stayed low up until about 2018 or so, relative to what R410a cost at that time. That is all changing. 2024 is only the beginning. I service the Katy, Texas area....See MoreTalk to me about shades!
Comments (14)@ncnovice We ended up choosing Norman roller shades. In the master bedroom we have dual shades on the windows - solar shades behind blackout shades. The sliding glass doors that lead to a screened porch have only blackout shades, because we don't really need solar shades in that direction. On the back of the house, which faces west, we have solar shades. That includes the music studio. On the front, which faces east, we have light filtering shades, and the guest bedroom (north facing) got blackout shades only. Our shades guy recommended against any shades in the bathrooms, because the only windows are high and there's plenty of privacy from the neighbors. He liked the look of the light coming through, as do we. The front doors (full length glass) also have light filtering shades. The blackout shades have a little ledge, I forget what it is called, around the inside of the window frame to help deal with the light that might get through the crack between the shades and the edge of the window. We have a remote for all the shades in the master bedroom, which means they are fully motorized. The rest open with a motorized wand, except we decided to have manual operation in the guest bedroom, in case guests have never used a wand before! But honestly, the wand operation is so simple that I don't think it would be a problem. Our shades guy came to the house with a big sample book of fabrics and was very helpful in choosing textures and neutral colors. Basically the light filtering and blackout shades are a cream color and the solar shades are brown (recommendation is for solar shades to be a darker color. I was skeptical, but it works.) We're not yet moved into the house, and apparently I haven't taken photos of the shades, but we'll be there next week and I'll try to take photos then and load them here. Good luck with your decision!...See More- 5 years ago
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