This is a very nice system. You will not be disappointed assuming it is installed correctly. Did the salesman do a real Manual J calculation on his laptop or did you write some numbers on a piece of paper? In NJ you will need a Manual J and Manual S calcualtion in order to qualify for the Cool Advantage rebate. Ask for a copy of the report. Do you need an electronic air cleaner? The Carrier 4 inch media filter works well. Is is less expensive and no maintenace. Is the Carrier 10 year labor warranty included? What are your plans for the second floor HVAC system? If it is the same age then consider getting a quote ro replace both. You should be able to negotiate a better price on two systems.

I represented Rinnai in its largest US heating market, New England, for 20 yrs. I've trained thousands of dealers/techs on install & service on the Energysaver units. As well, I sold over 180,000 units. Since '91 when they were introduced I've heated my homes, garage and basement with them. Your heating contractor is wrong. It is an outstanding unit for basements. One of the things I like the best about the basement applications is that you are separating the upstairs heating from the basement. I would not want to be tying the basement air to be drawn and mixed into the air going to my girls rooms. I just don't think it is a good idea. Radon and/or possible negative pressure issues in the basement space...it is just not good to pump basement air into the house. Unless you have a walk out basement with exterior walls exposed down to the footing I strongly question being over 40kbtu in 700 sq ft. Personally, in a normal basement ( sub-grade) for 700 sq ft I'd select the EX22. I heated 750 sq ft in my first floor in MA with a 22 very very comfortably. It was an open floor but the 22 did a great job. The 38 will certainly do the job, but it will almost certainly be oversized...substantially. Heat loss is based up delta T, difference in temperature. You will have some of the wall against outside air temps, but as you get to ground level and below the delta T is reduced and therefore so is the heat loss. Again, I have probably 10-15,000 units in the field in basements and I took trouble calls gladly...because there were so few. It is a great product and you will be very comfortable with the 22 or the 38. Oh, and one of the things I liked about the Rinnai in the basement was that after I ran it for a while it would heat the basement ceiling/first floor. It acted like a radiant heater for that floor. It changed the comfort characteristic of the first floor area. Happy Heating!

ryanhuges, I have been looking for a HVAC person that will do manual J & D calculations and sizes equip, duct properly as wel as does duct sealing. Everyone seems to want to do shortcuts so I am trying to fix some things myself. If there was someone in NJ I would be glad to talk with them. As far as answering your questions. I went up into the attic and did some measurements. The system starts in the upper attic. Return Duct is 2'H x 18"w x 30" L in Hallway. Connected via 16" flex duct to the filter then to the Trane TWE040E13FB0 Variable Speed Air Handler. Supply then Connected to a 4' Long x 24" H x 12" W Duct. Which tapes at the 4' mark down to 12x12. On this 4' long piece of duct are 5 takeoffs(on the sides) for flex ducts. 1ea 7" to the master Bedroom, 1ea 5" to a bathroom, 2ea 6" (I'm pretty sure but is on the other side of the air handler so move to read) to two other bedrooms and 1 7" flex duct that runs through a MB closet to the FR below. There then is a 45 degree fitting. The supply then connects to a 4' long 12x12 duct. There is another 5" duct (on top) to another bathroom. This connects to another 45 degree fitting. This connects to a 5' long 12x12 duct. There is another 5" duct that was placed in the hallway since it used to be hot there. I have since insulated the attic hatch and stuff so this may not be needed anymore. This connects to a 90 degree fitting which then starts the drop into a closet to transition to the lower attic/level. There is approx 16" of 12x12 duct drop until there is another 90 to carry the duct into the lower attic. This duct is approx 12' of 12x12 duct. This is where there are 4 takeoff's 1 ea 7" and 3ea 6". There are no dampers that I see. Would be able to tell more when the duct wrap is removed to seal the ducts. All of the ceiling registers appear to be 8x8's except for the bathrooms. Photos below are in the duct run sequence listed above.

well Dave, I see that the contractor posted his findings so I wouldn't worry too much about upsetting or offending anyone. it isn't unusual for there to be conflicting opinions, but the fact is that you and he are the only ones who have seen the ductwork. his discription of your return air setup is suspect. I see he is advising you to wait out the summer to do any duct/return modifications. if you can, do. it is awfully hot to be modifying ductwork this time of year. a rushed job isn't a good job. better someone take the time to properly install and seal ducts. it kinda bothered me that no mention of duct or return sealing was mentioned. of course the discussion is pretty technical. but I find that leaky ducts/returns are often overlooked. when you talk about the kids rooms and the 3-4 temp difference, you mention west facing windows. how many & what approx size are in each room? what type of windows do you have? single pane, double pane? metal frames, vinyl frames? clear glass or low-e glass? if the temp difference is due to the west windows..and it would be here in my area, then there are a couple of things you could try. block the afternoon sun from the exterior for a day or two and see if this evens out the 3-4 degree temp difference. wouldn't have to look great, or be permanent, just stop the solar gain. if you can keep the heat from entering the house, then the a/c doesn't have the added load to temper. exterior shading is the best route. rather than interior shades & curtains. beat the heat before it gets inside. if this works then invest in solar screens. yes they are darker than normal screens, but they will minimize heat gain. if windows are double paned..you can't install window tints as it will increase heat between panes and blow the seal. awnings and bahama shutters are other options but to me..at this point solar screens would be more cost effective. right now you have more time than solutions, so give it a try. don't worry about riling those guys up..they live for that stuff. Shophound & the guys have a good handle on things, so let them talk themselves around. I have to admire your restraint & patience. you are aware that 1" pleated filters are very restrictive? for now I'd change to a less restrictive filter. at least then more air will return to the unit. hang in there. best of luck.