Why? Heat/AC Usage
5 years ago
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Radiant heating and regular heating/AC?....
Comments (13)Placing the PEX for radiant heating is relatively easy. What's not so easy is determining if this is a waste of money for you. It was for us. 1.)We live in the South, where the cooling season is longer than the heating season. Very little chance of payback unless you operate the system for longer periods. The smart boilers needed to accurately control a system in a temperate climate are pretty spendy and complicated and not very DIYable. 2.)We have wide temperature swings, sometimes daily, which magnifies the slowness of the "thermal mass pendulum." We see this just with our heated bathroom floors (separate system). It's going to be 42° tonight, so turning on the heated floors will feel good. You have to think about that a couple of hours in advance, because it takes that long to warm up. By the time they're warm, they're too warm for most of the timeframe except for that brief period that was 42°. The next day when the swing is back up to 60° and the floors are still 80°, the bathroom is too hot and needs a window opened for comfort. 3.) We insulated the new addition so well that a plain 110 volt 1500 w spaceheater can keep it 60° in the winter, and a 2 ton AC in the summer. If we'd put the money we spent on PEX towards additional insulation (we just used 2x6 construction with "standard" type insulation instead of the new high tech products) then the simple addition of the forced air furnace would have been more than sufficient for truly comfortable heating in the winter. For many people who have a long heating season and awkward spaces that forced air isn't comfortable for, radiant heating can work "miracles". For people in warmer climates, or in climates with great daily temperature fluctuations, a radiant system is very often not the best choice for either comfort or the pocketbook. Do your research well, and don't get caught up in the hype thinking it's a "must have". It isn't. And, it's sometimes even a drawback to comfort. We've never fired up the radiant in the addition. We've never needed to, even in 0° weather. And the bathrooms do work wonderfully well (imagine 6 cats lying on their backs in bliss!) but are also inefficient monetarily and for true comfort when confronted with wide temperature swings in a day. They are great when the temps say in the 40's and below for extended periods of time, but that't not how our winters here operate. It's 40 for a couple of days, then back up to 55°, then down to the high 20's, then 70° (must be Christmas day!) and then you have a 50° drop into the teens and on down to 0°. Radiant isn't very efficient or comfortable with weather like that....See MoreCarrier Greenspeed 25VNA Heat Pump Electricity Usage in Cold Area
Comments (43)Hi All. Live in eastern Ontario and just got installed a Greenspeed 25VNA048 heat pump w a 59MN7080 gas furnace to stop paying for oil. It was a learning curve for this system as it is an advanced heat pump system - expect the competition to ramp up their pumps HSPF to 13 also or lose the market. My coldest night so far was -15C and we got our 21C/70F indoor temp in our 2800 sq.ft house.My balance point is set for -17C/1F and I should be getting to -18C this wed/Thurs evening for a real test for the normal switch to gas furnace. Yes the system by default uses gas heat on defrost. Without it it would be blasting cold air in the ducts for 5 minutes. So the gas frnace heat modulates at 65% so to neutralize the cold air so air temp swings are minimum for comfort. Yes you can disable this on the touch screen interface in service/ setup/ heat source lockouts. Yes one can monitor electrical costs in $$$ or Kw and gas $$$ or therms on a per day/ per month and per year to date on the interface. I've experimented between the different options in choosing efficiency or comfort and there is a noticeable difference to the environment and a slight increase in costs of electricity between the two. I do prefer comfort. On an average cold day 0C/32F w -5C at night it costs me @ $5 per day in electricity and with heat on defrost w/ continuous low fan for only an additional cost of $1 every third day (.33cents per day). (yes the different areas of kw usage is separated in the readout) The only puzzle I have to resolve is last Saturday nite at 3 am the house felt cold - it was 15 F outside. Gas furnace came on for a couple of hours before pump came back ???. No codes or resetable fault codes registered on interface. The only way for the gas to go on at that temp way above the balance point is a 2 degree drop or a manual increase of temp of 2 degrees or more. So why did did happen.... stay tuned.... Gotta love saving money. Last year in October it cost me $425 in oil - this year for Oct gas+electrical $202 Included is a pic Update Jan 2014: had issues w furnace overiding heatpump prematurely and Carrier change my thermostat which had Version 9 to version 10 software - issue fixed. those who want to see what savings a heat pump can have over your specific system try this: http://sagoro.wrightsoft.com/Carrier/Default.aspx This post was edited by Cocobob on Mon, Jan 13, 14 at 23:22...See MoreCarrier Infinity Heat Pump & AC Quote in northern VA
Comments (40)12" return is almost definitely too large for the basement. I have a 6" return in my basement, and I have actually found it to draw ~200-240 cfm (using a barometer) -- plenty in my case with just a few supply outlets. In your case, I have no way of knowing for sure, but I assume it's piped directly (or near) to the inlet of the furnace blower compartment, in which case there is a lot of pressure and it's sucking in a lot of air and making the basement quite negative (not a good thing). So your basement return in that state may have been drawing close to, if not more than, half of the return air the entire system requires. Is the basement floorplan open to the rest of the home or closed off? If typically closed off, I wouldn't be surprised if the basement door had a tendency to close itself when the system was operating. I suppose putting cardboard over half of the grille is one way to reduce its intake capacity. Your older furnace does not (presumably) have a variable speed blower that will vary its RPM in order to maintain a specific CFM setting. That means that while you are noticing more airflow from the rest of the returns throughout the home, in totality your system is receiving less airflow -- no, not a good thing considering your ductwork is likely undersized to begin with. You have decreased its return capacity. To get the SAME (total) airflow from the rest of the returns throughout the home that were not previously drawing as much air generally requires the system to operate at an increased static; with older PSC type blower motors (non variable-speed), this results in decreased airflow. Hence variable speed motors are often termed "constant CFM" as they can adjust (increase) their speed to maintain a constant airflow (cfm) when subjected to as much as 0.8-1.0" of external static pressure (vs. conventional blowers max. of 0.5", which many duct systems are nowhere close to achieving despite it being the standard "design" figure). You can think of the ESP number as a measure of resistance to airflow, in a sense. The fact that you say the (supply?) ductwork is now much warmer is both concerning and telling. It is unwise for me to say much more than that as I am not there to evaluate your system design and give an accurate assessment of the ductwork design/layout, etc. But it suffices to say, with the info you've provided us, your return ductwork is now more restrictive, which would exacerbate any existing airflow issues. You do say it met the set point without tripping the high limit. Please let us know how the system performs as it gets colder out and the system runs more often in its present state. I would like to ask what made you consider replacing the systems (and proceeding to get 8 proposals) in the first place? Are there functional problems with the existing equipment (besides most likely being oversized) or other comfort issues? By now we have at least established that it is likely the existing equipment is a bit oversized and the existing ductwork is marginal -- but that is (unfortunately) exceedingly common on most residential construction. Are you after more efficiency, better comfort, both? It helps us to help you when we know more about your current system's performance. Lastly, I would not factor online reviews into your decision too much. An air conditioner or furnace is not like most appliances (such as a refrigerator) in that the installation practices and quality can make or break even the best equipment selection. There is a good chance that many (but not all) of the negative reviews you read were due to installation errors. This post was edited by ryanhughes on Fri, Nov 22, 13 at 9:51...See MoreCaribbean rental villa - A/C - can I set limits on our guests' usage?
Comments (23)I think many commenting on this thread have lost their way in what this property is used for. Comfort means different things to different people. The Caribbean is a vacation / tourist destination. I'm sure humidity is much higher than most people are accustomed to. The goal of this property is to suit the needs of guests going on vacation. If your guests are dropping $5k plus on a vacation (air fare + lodging and so on) to this tropical island (humid) those people you're hosting are not going to be too concerned with what your utility bill winds up being. The guests visiting this place are there for relaxation and comfort. To become the tourist attraction you want to become, you must accommodate everyone's tastes. Not just what benefits you and your utility bills....See More- 5 years ago
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