Why? Heat/AC Usage
5 years ago
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Carrier Greenspeed 25VNA Heat Pump Electricity Usage in Cold Area
Comments (43)Hi All. Live in eastern Ontario and just got installed a Greenspeed 25VNA048 heat pump w a 59MN7080 gas furnace to stop paying for oil. It was a learning curve for this system as it is an advanced heat pump system - expect the competition to ramp up their pumps HSPF to 13 also or lose the market. My coldest night so far was -15C and we got our 21C/70F indoor temp in our 2800 sq.ft house.My balance point is set for -17C/1F and I should be getting to -18C this wed/Thurs evening for a real test for the normal switch to gas furnace. Yes the system by default uses gas heat on defrost. Without it it would be blasting cold air in the ducts for 5 minutes. So the gas frnace heat modulates at 65% so to neutralize the cold air so air temp swings are minimum for comfort. Yes you can disable this on the touch screen interface in service/ setup/ heat source lockouts. Yes one can monitor electrical costs in $$$ or Kw and gas $$$ or therms on a per day/ per month and per year to date on the interface. I've experimented between the different options in choosing efficiency or comfort and there is a noticeable difference to the environment and a slight increase in costs of electricity between the two. I do prefer comfort. On an average cold day 0C/32F w -5C at night it costs me @ $5 per day in electricity and with heat on defrost w/ continuous low fan for only an additional cost of $1 every third day (.33cents per day). (yes the different areas of kw usage is separated in the readout) The only puzzle I have to resolve is last Saturday nite at 3 am the house felt cold - it was 15 F outside. Gas furnace came on for a couple of hours before pump came back ???. No codes or resetable fault codes registered on interface. The only way for the gas to go on at that temp way above the balance point is a 2 degree drop or a manual increase of temp of 2 degrees or more. So why did did happen.... stay tuned.... Gotta love saving money. Last year in October it cost me $425 in oil - this year for Oct gas+electrical $202 Included is a pic Update Jan 2014: had issues w furnace overiding heatpump prematurely and Carrier change my thermostat which had Version 9 to version 10 software - issue fixed. those who want to see what savings a heat pump can have over your specific system try this: http://sagoro.wrightsoft.com/Carrier/Default.aspx This post was edited by Cocobob on Mon, Jan 13, 14 at 23:22...See Morewater coil heat with relation to water heater usage
Comments (36)Nice price on electricity. I pay at least twice that. Here are some numbers for you, based on your figures: A kilowatt of electricity is about 3,413 BTUs, and is $0.0636, which works out to be 53,660 BTUs per dollar. Electricity is 100% efficient, meaning that there are no combustion losses that go up the chimney at your house. Propane has about 92,000 BTUs per gallon, and is $2.50 gallon, which works out to be about 36,800 BTUs per dollar. Your existing water heater is prolly on the order of 60% efficient, which means that 40% of the BTUs out of a gallon of propane end up going up the chimney, and not in your house. As such, you are getting about 22,000 BTUs per dollar out of it. If you went with a new water heater, such as the Polaris which is 95% efficient, you would be getting about 34,900 BTUs per dollar after combustion losses. Based on your posted information, electricity would be about 65% the cost of propane for heating with a 95% efficiency water heater, and 41% of the cost of propane using your existing water heater. An electric water heater won't work because they donÂt produce enough BTUs to keep up with the demand on the house. But an electric boiler might, depending on the model and how manu BTUs your house requires to keep it warm on the coldest day of the year. An electric boiler will require a lot of electricity, though, prolly on the order of 100 amps. A 200 amp electric service to your house would be the minimum needed to run the electric boiler. You still need to address the ducting losses through your attic. If yours are anything like mine were, that is half the problem right there....See MoreRight thermostat, higher usage!!!! Why?
Comments (1)just a guess, but it seems you probably are still using aux heat when you should not be using any. this sounds like incorrect setup of thermostat. if your aux heat is on a separate circuit in your breaker box, I would shut that circuit down and run a test over the next several days assuming weather will be nearly the same. normally, outside condenser, air handler, and aux heat are placed on separate circuits. can't tell about yours. you might check your owner's manual to see if the band on temp range is adjustable. BTW, who installed new thermostat? sorry for your trouble. IMO...See MoreWhy do I have noisy air flow from vents with heat, not with A/C?
Comments (3)https://www.heatair.org/ A house with plenty of return air ducting, including return vents in every room will probably be quieter than a system with just one large return grille cut directly into the return duct of the equipment. There is nothing technically wrong with the latter, it is just a less expensive system to install and is a very basic approach to ducting the equipment. The downside of course is that it may be loud! The most common complaint we get on this matter is usually from return vents making a high-pitched, tuning-fork type of sound. This usually, not always, but usually, indicates a lack of return air. The system needs to pull more air so the pressure and velocity increases, thus increasing the sound level. By adding more return air, the pressure drops, and the system doesn't have to work as hard, and it quiets down....See More- 5 years ago
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