"Okay, I've had a couple of these orchids over the years, and always did the ice cube watering routine once weekly and it worked - I even got them to re bloom for 3-4 years." I definitely would not continue to water with ice cubes. Many orchid growers that I've seen say that the cold water shocks the roots, and that continued exposure to the cold water will eventually cause damage to them. Think about it-most orchids' natural habitat is the tropical rainforest. Would they experience freezing cold water in nature? Most probably not. Room temperature to lukewarm water is best-not too hot either. Do I cut the stems back to the base of the plant? If the spikes have more buds emerging, I would let them continue to grow. Do you have any pictures? You probably have buds because seed pods are extremely unlikely on a store-bought phal, but it's better just to be sure. Once all the blooms are gone and there is no sign of new buds emerging, you can take some sterilized scissors (wipe them down with rubbing alcohol or bleach) and cut the spike all the way down. It is fine to leave a little bit of the spike remaining on the plant. Do I fertilize them, and if so, how and for how long? Definitely fertilize. I would use a kind specifically made for orchids. I would fertilize throughout the entire year. During the winter months you can use a little less-maybe 1/4 or 1/2 of the recommended dosage. During the growing season you can use 3/4 of the recommended dosage. When in doubt, use less. The less fertilizer you use the less chance of burning the roots. Paid $45 each for these so I'd like for them to rebloom - they have given me months of pleasure. In my opinion, phals are quite easy to rebloom if given the proper care throughout the growing season. When summer draws to a close and fall arrives, the orchid will likely start to spike on its own, maybe around November or December. If nothing appears, you can give it a slight cooldown to help induce spike production-a 15*F difference between day temps and night temps should be enough (e.g. If day time temp is 70*F, then night time temp should be around 55-60*F). Don't go too low in temperature however-no lower than 55*F. A west facing windows seems fine. Don't give them too much light-bright indirect is perfect. Good luck!

Yes, it's a Phalaenopsis. When I first got it, it was jammed in a ridiculous small container. I immediately took it out since it was kept too wet all the time. after taken it out of the small container I put it in a bigger container, I assume the roots tried to grow all over trying to fill it. The container was not translucent, so i changed it to another clear container. some of the roots just look dry and black here are some photos. Maybe someone can help identify what happened to it. it was also growing a new leaf but it stopped growing and it looks like it started to grow again. It's just the roots that don't look right to me. i water it once a week or when the moss is dry , it doesnt stay too wet since i check on it every few days.

Bevo- I see you sorted out how to post! Nice! You've added your lighting conditions. Thanks for the addtional info! The light information is the key to why your orchids failed. It is ultimately 99% of why orchids fail indoors. Lack of light as was suspected but not confirmed on the other thread. A 120 w equivelent (28 w actual) 1-2 feet away is underlight Bevo. It's adding 20 fc's to your your orchid. x 3 or 4 is what a standard phal will thrive in run time as you have it. The addition of supplimental light will increase the temps around the plant when used less than 1 foot away,inches are better It will take a little time to acclimate the plants to the light increase. At this time of the year you have little to no natural sunlight in z-4. The orchid gets very minimal light from the window. The "Spot Grow" is not something that I would choose for my light banks. Boiled down, it is a more expensive version of a blue tinted incandescent light bulb. It honestly would be better off as your make up lighting. The CFL light can be brought in to a foot or less. The plants are ill and the cause is unarguably underlighting. Light needs to get sorted out first and foremost, if you really want to have a shot at re-habbing these guys. Right now you are at a disadvantage. All the re-hab "techniques" are not going to help the 2 plants that are in frail condition. This is real work, re-habbing something that far gone. There is no easy way out, no short cuts, magic potions or methods, just good steady culture (care) ,light and time. Books - Read as much as you can. Taylor's Guide to Orchids is 66 little pages of exactly how to care for just about any orchid. It is one of the top "Orchid Bibles". It can be had at amazon for 2-3$, used. There are no complicated techniques in it, just good straight "How to Basic's". Ortho's All About Orchids is another. If you are interested in continuing with orchids, you will find the book an immense help in understanding the basics of orchid growing. A good foundation of solid culture and lights are the only things you are missing.:-) Temps- second most important issue. 70 is very low for an ill phal. It may be warm to some humans but not for a tropical plant. 76º-80º is what the plant will like. No lower than 65 night for an ill plant. Night temp differentials aren't really a concern until the plants have some roots. They will need consistent temps, light and some humidity. Bevo do you have a timer for your lights? The more consistent you can be, the better the orchids will respond. You honestly have little room for error at this point. You will learn regardless of outcome and that's always good thing. I had upwards of 20 phals left on my doorstep this past year, alone.(Long story) All in varying condition. Spag and bag just doesn't work unless you have the light to support it. Even then, I don't find it an effective technique, especially if you are new to orchids. There are less risky alternatives. Indoors an 85w actual cfl compact floursecent (150w equivelent) and the window would give them the light they need to recover and continue to grow and eventually bloom. (2, 42 watts would also work) . 3 or 4 times what you currently have. There are many posts about large cfl's and sources. Use the GW search engine to find them. They have been posted on the orchids board over the past few months. 1 came back to the 1st page recently. I haven't seen a photo but if you can successfully pull them out of their brush with death it will be about 2 years give or take for the orchid to have a decent bloom. Orchids will throw out a spike sometimes right before they die. Their way of trying to pass on their genetics. If that should happen, cut the spike off. It will drain the life out of the plant. It is easier said than done, but the blooms will not be great, if they actually open at all. I have not read the responses to the thread. If no one has mentioned it, Phals do not enjoy saucer methods. You might be thinking of paphs. Sick phals will die in a saucer. Pot your phals up in some very fine seedling bark, a little perlite perhaps and a light morning and afternoon mist at the media. Water well every 7 days when the light is sorted out, half that in your current situation. A Clay pot would be better than plastic, if you are underlight and an over-waterer. Mist the media daily, event drape a little plastic wrap very loosely around the top if you go unglazed ceramic. Ambient humidity with a wood stove would require a large effort on your part. The plant can live without high ambient humidity, but not without light heat and good watering skills. You have seen what lack of light and too much water has done, it would only make sense to go in the opposite direction at this point! Clara

The plant is in pretty good condition, it is normal for old roots to rot off and die. Provided the plants grows new roots at regular intervals all will be well. You need someone to tell you how often to repot Phalaenopsis. Tell us where you have the plant and the temperature ranges there, to provide clues re. No flowers.