First, one comment on your plan...instead of having the sink centered on the countertop, I'd slide the sink to the left for added headroom. Secondly, you're still missing one aspect of code, and that's the minimum ceiling height for the room. A minimum of 50% of the floor space must have a ceiling height higher than 7' tall. Your ceiling hits 7' high about 34-3/8" away from the knee wall, so you need equal amounts of floor space on either side of that 34-3/8" line. Your options? Right now your bathroom is 5', or 60" deep. Your first option is to increase the depth of the bathroom by moving the bathroom wall further into the attic space so it's 69" away from the kneewall. Instead of being 5' deep, your bathroom will be 5'9" deep. By increasing the amount of floorspace within the bathroom that is over 7' high that will put you right on the 50% mark. Your second option is to do the reverse of the above. Instead of increasing the amount of floorspace with a ceiling height over 7', you instead decrease the amount of floorspace with a ceiling height less than 7'. To do that, leave the doorway wall where it is. Pad out the bathroom's kneewall about 9" into the bathroom. This will reduce your bathroom depth from 5' to 4'4". That might leave you without code-required knee space between the toilet and the wall in front of the toilet, so you might have to rotate the toilet. You might have to increase the length of the room to get adequate toilet and vanity space. I haven't scaled out any required fixture clearances, but here's a rough idea of what my words are trying to convey. The thing is, there's just no real satisfactory solution going this route: One note with the second option: I'd consider using a pedestal sink instead of a vanity. Although you'd lose storage, use the depth of the padded out kneewall area to the left of the sink for built-in storage Then there is always spitting the difference. Padding out the kneewall a few inches, and moving the doorway wall out a few inches.

I hadn't thought about a wall mounted sink at all! I'd like something more traditional looking than the Jazz but it's definitely an option. With some quick googling, I found the Duravit 1930. It's only 14.5" deep! Thanks again. :)

I got the glass through a local shop. My situation was different, as only one wall, the "front" door wall, was glass. The other three walls were kerdi and tile. The sloped glass ceiling was captured in the walls on three sides and clear silicon was used to seal the remaining side to the front wall of glass. I'm not sure what type of specific seal was used on the door. It might have been clear vinyl. If you do a search or ask at the glass shops, it might also help if you refer to it as a "raked" (sloped) front wall of glass. Actually, lemme see if I can get a quick google hit... Found one at Wilson Glass. Not exactly what you're looking for though. Using something like that with a sealed transom overhead would work and be the lest expensive. Having the front wall as a single piece of glass with the door cutout of it would be $$$$$.

I like both of the leds that ci-lantro posted. We have one horizontal one over a 24" vanity in the standard 5' x 7' guest bathroom, with 10' ceilings, and it lights up the room more than adequately. Yes, there are additional high hats over the tub/shower, but unless someone is using the tub/shower, those lights are never turned on. Edit: PS - I love that tile and yes, fixtures should have square edges, not round.