Iceberg in a pot died, should I try again?
l pinkmountain
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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rosecanadian
2 years agol pinkmountain
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
Try Try Again ( hopefully the start of a lengthy debate)
Comments (11)Agree with 3 strikes and you are out ------ don't necessarily follow it. After 2 strikes I take pause and try to find out as much as possible about the natural environment of the failing plant. I also try to identify a grower who successfully grows them. I have tried over and over again with Dendrobium cuthbersonii and have always failed . So I finally talked to Tom Perlite from Golden Gate Orchids who grows these things like I grow Dandelion and got some hints from him. Now it takes me 2 years to kill them instead of one. I have finally given up on these little beauties. Dendrobium nobile is another example. No matter how closely I follow the instructions as to how to grow them, winter rest etc, I cannot get a decent bloom. Either they don't bloom or they make a few lackluster blooms. So I finally talked to the grower in Hawaii who is the source of most of the commercial nobiles you see on the market every spring. Success, last spring all 3 of mine bloomed ------------ with a few lackluster flowers! Enough, they went on the plant table of my society and I'm done with them. Miltoniopsis; Killed every one of them in the past. Finally talked to Theresa Hill form Hillcrest Orchids who grows beautiful Miltoniopsis. Her advice was simple, keep them cool in the summer, warm in the winter, they like to be within 5F of 60F. Doing this I am now growing them successfully, meaning the plant is increasing in size. Last year they even bloomed, one or two spikes on a large plant. That should have been 10 spikes or more. So I'm not there yet and unless they pick it up may also give up on them but not yet. Parvisepalum Paphiopedeliums: I just got started with these so have no failures to report. Go to the Gallery where you see an entry I placed yesterday of my first success with Paph armeniacum. They also have a reputation of being a little difficult and I had a discussion with Dr Holger Perner at the San Francisco show who thinks most people are growing them wrong. Most people treat them as cold growers. True in the winter but not true in the summer. In their natural habitat, the ones from China get treated to a bright, sunny, cold, dry winter and a shady, hot, humid and very wet summer. The result of the monsoon season there. So unlike Dracula who should be kept as cold as possible in the summer, these Paphs should go in the warm greenhouse and drenched every day. Since there are 35,000 species of orchids available, I generally don't mess with ones that don't like me. My greenhouse is full of robustly growing plants. Not because I'm a genius but because that is the price they have to pay in order to stay. If a plant lingers, grows poorly and fails to bloom, I will get rid of it. Visitors to my growing area think I do magic because most plants look very healthy when in fact it is a process of throwing them against the wall and if they don't stick, they don't stay. There are innumerable others to replace......See MoreID, I'm trying again
Comments (15)Carla, Here's a scan of two random leaves and one thorn from my Geschwind's Orden. I got it this spring from Palatine as a bare root, and I haven't seen it bloom yet, so I can't comment on the flowers. To me, it looks as if this could at least be a tentative ID. Hope this helps, Connie...See MoreI'm ready to try again.
Comments (13)Hi Ron, Yes agree in respect of pellies (pelargoniums). Peat based soils are ok for fuchsias but one must add something to 'open-up' the soil for better drainage and less compactness, such as perlite, vermiculite, sand, horticultural grit etc. It's all a matter of personal choice and what grows best for you. Personally I add perlite and horticultural grit. A lot of the commercial growers use pure peat for the simple reason it is very light in weight and keeps their costs down in respect of transportation and the poor old inexperienced gardner ends up with a container that is very 'soggy' or quite the opposite, a container full of a 'bone-dry' mix that is nigh impossible for water to penetrate - Kath:)...See MoreCould someone tell me if I cut enough off to try planting again?
Comments (2)Hi Crazy, Dont worry about the wrinkling, after it is rooted it should plump back up. Some wrinkling is normal in their dormant state. Dont cut it just because its wrinkled, only cut if it is rotten(brown and squishy). You can pierce the cutting with a sterilized needle. If the liquid that comes out is white you are ok. If it is brown, you have rot and need to keep cutting. Sterilize your cutting implement after each cut, as to not spread the rot. Cut until you have reached firm white flesh. Bottom heat during the rooting process speeds up rooting. A seedling mat works wonderfully. And of course, have patience. What I am concerned about is your potting mix. Is it regular miracle-gro? Plumeria need a fast draining mix like a cactus mix, or you add can perlite to regular mix. Some people use 3 parts perlite to 1 part potting soil. Then switch to 50/50 when your plant is rooted/established. Hope this helps! Randy in Savannah...See MoreVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
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2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCactus&Roses (Zone 7, high desert)
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2 years ago
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